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Down inside the hole where the flex shaft sits is a Torx T-20 screw that is removed to take off the clutch drum.
You may also use a length of starter cord (clean, not frayed) inside the piston hole to serve as a piston stop.
Hope this is helpful!
Take about 3' of cord and insert it in the spark plug hole, leaving enough out for easy removal. Then as the piston moves in the cylinder it will bunch up the cord inside to preven movement. Since the cord is soft, it will block movement without the risk of damaging anything. When you're done, then turn the crank the other way to loosen the pressure the piston is putting on the cord, then pull it back out and replace the plug.
Does that make sense? If I'm not clear enough in my explanation, be sure to ask. I want you to be very comfortable with the process.
Also, are you going to be removing the clutch as well? There's a trick tothat to if you are.
Let me know how I can help...
What I am trying to do is replace the pull cord. Why would they not make this easy for a person that knows nothing about engines and stuff. The local place wanted to charge me $100 just to fix it. Hell, I could go buy a new one for that price.
So to recap...place the cord into the spark plug hole. Then, I should gently spin the clutch drum/crank until it gets caught. That should allow me unscrew the bolt.
Yes. That's correct.
Then your next challenge will be getting the clutch off. It also serves as the flywheel nut. There's a special tool that's made for holding the clutch for removal with a socket wrench. If you don't have that, still using the rope as a piston stop, you can carefully use a flat punch and a hammer to loosen it then spin it the rest of the way off by hand. Look for the arrows on the clutch and find a safe place on the body, not the shoes, to give it a whack in that direction. some folks will take the springs and shoes off to do this, but they're sometimes a bit difficult to get back on.
What you're running into had been a complaint from dealers and consumers both for years. I'm sure you can see the time justification for the dealer to charge so much to repair it (although $100 seems a bit steep in my experience). And at the same time the reluctance of the consumer to pay so much money that it's cheaper to replace it. The whole problem boils down to the retailer wanting to sell a unit for less money, so the manufacturer uses a half-crank instead of a full-crank design. Full-crank engines have the starter on the back that's easily removed with four screws.
Unfortunately. it's the age-old question of pay me now, or pay me later. After the retailer has made their money, then the consumer pays the difference in cash or time, or both. And the dealer looks like the bad guy.
Think of them like a chisel with the end made flat instead of wedged. Some folks call them pin punches, too, depending on your part of the country.
I'm finding more than one version of the TB70SS. Can you give me the model and serial number so I'm certain I'm giving you correct information? It should start with 41... and look something like 41CDT70C966.
This one has a spring assist starter system, so it's a bit complex. This document should help you out.
the pully retainer
You'll need a new one when you reassemble anyway. They're not reusable.
Did you download the information I posted?
yes I did...thanks...
Do the instructions for assembly make sense? If anything's not clear, just let me know. I'll post this as an answer to accept when you are satisfied with my service. But I want to make sure you're completely taken care of.
so, can I buy this pully retainer anywhere?
Part nunmber 753-04288 from a local MTD or Troy-Bilt dealer. Also online:
Here's a locator for your closest dealer: