Small Engine Problems? Ask an Engine Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Tried that already - no change. I took the flywheel off this morning to check the altenator. Upon careful review, I noticed a resistence difference across the joint where the inside strip is connected together. Not sure is it is enough to interrupt the field. If I squeeze the joint togehter, the resistence drops to zero. Does this sound suspicious?
New coil: 492341 Armature-Magneto (Top of Box) I do not see any part number markings on the coil itself except for "this side out " on the top of the coil. It is definitely installed the same as the one I took off. If it was on backwards the kill wire connector would be on the wrong side.
FYI: Briggs & Stratton Engine # XXXXX
I just cleaned the ouside of the flywheel & the inner magnets. I will get a new spark plug and begin re-assembling the flywheel and set the coil at 0.01" This will take me a little while.
Thanks - Kevin
Tom - Well I have spark now! I have been using a spark plug indicator. I tried putting it back in and the idicator does not spark (not sure why - it worked on my truck). Anyways, I have good spark now.
Still will not start though. I tried unplugging the kill wire - no difference.
Could the ignition switch be the cause? The clutch and mower deck ingagement switched appear to be fine (I cannot even engage the starter unless they in the proper position). Since I do not have a wiring diagram, what is the best way to diagnose an electrical issue?
Yes, it cranks over with spark and with the kill switch plugged in
Well there was gas in the line at the carb. I removed and re-tightened the gas cap (just to check). I then started it again and it turned over and ran (with the gas line reconnected at carb). After running about 30 seconds, it got really hot (front muffler area started getting red). I shut it off at once. I replaced cover on flywheel with air filter and checked the oil level.
After it sat about 15 minutes, I started it again. It started. I drove it down the driveway. Sounds differenrt then before though. I do not seem to have near the amount of power / speed as before. It started to get hot again, so I shut it off. Any idea why it would be running so hot now? Does the fuel solenoid have anything to do with temperature?
Well I rebuilt and cleaned out the carb. I replaced the fuel solenoid (it operates fine) as recommended.
The tractor does not want to start though. When it does start, it is running extremely hot (lean). I finally ran the battery down, so I just put it on the charger.
Really not sure what else could be making it run lean. I checked the gas tank, no foreign particles. The fuel pump is operating fine - I unplugged the hose into the carb and started it with the hose in a bottle. It pumped fuel in the bottle no problem. There is gas in the fuel filter as well. Gas seems to be getting to the carb without any issue.
Any ideas what would cause this condition?
It seems like the timing is off. Starting fluid in the carb will not even keep it going. It backfires and shutters.
I did tip the entire tractor on its side about a week ago when I was intially working on it to retreive a part I dropped.
How can I adjust the timing? It appears to be fixed. I was going to take the flywheel off again and closely inspect the key.