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Rick, Factory Authorized Trainer
Category: Small Engine
Satisfied Customers: 8057
Experience:  Outdoor Power Equipment technical trainer since 1990, covering eight states.
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Ive recently run across several NEW lawnmowers with the B&S

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I've recently run across several NEW lawnmowers with the B&S 6.5 motors that have been run without oil (I guess folks don't read the instruction book since the box says "guaranteed to start") Are these engines a plain bearing crank-in-the-case or are there insert bearings (automotive style) I have many years experience on motorcycle engines, but lately picking up scrap metal due to no job. Is there any hope for these motors without spending a bunch of $$ (that I don't have) None have holes in the cases (thrown rod) and they still turn over with no knock, just very tight and dry.
Most of these engines are running just on bearing surfaces cast into the crankcase and sump, but B&S makes several different 6.5's. If you can give me the model, spec, and code off one I can double check and verify for you, but I'm reasonably sure that's how yours will be configured.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
1ST MOTOR = 9BSXS.1901VH 190CC ECS:EM BUILD DATE 01/2009 SERIAL30901156217769
2ND MOTOR = 8BSXS.1901VH Build date 09/2008
(Both look identical externally) I noticed when tipping one up to read the tag a small amount of oil came out of the filler hole (tube is disconnected) and there are NO metal shavings in the oil. (I know that's a BAAAD sign)
Thanks for the quick reply!
I'm looking for numbers listed before that please. These are certification numbers for emission purposes. There should be a model and type number listed.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Nothing else on the stickers.
Metal tag on one motor= 14T02-0203-B1-08091157
Hope that helps.

That number looks real close, but I think we're missing a digit in that first set - it should be 6 characters long instead of 5. Also I'm not finding a 14T... in the data yet, although it certainly follows the Briggs pattern.


Other engines in this 14... series have replaceable bushings. They retail at about $40 for the pair and require a special tool for installation.

Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Nope, I double checked it. Actually while we've been typing, I've got one spinning freely by filling the crankase with PB Blaster and spinning by the blade, then flipping it upside down and spinning it more to lube the top of the crank. (Got to rememember to take off the air filter next time, I soaked this one, but used the one from the 2nd mower)
ALMOST wants to start, but I've got really low compression on my guage.
I'm guessing broken or seized rings? To heck with the motor numbers, lets talk "old school" repair.I saw your pic and you're probably about my age. Any places on the 'net to see a breakdown of the motor? Since the cases split horizontally, I'm guessing (hoping is more like it) That the head and cylinder are removeable without pulling the motor? I really appreciate the quick responses, just give me your unbiased thoughts on this and I'll call it an "accept"
I got fuel and spark, all I need is compression.
Nobody seems to want an old motorcycle fixed anymore, and judging by what the store I got these from, there's a LOT more to come, so I'm re-training myself for a "new trade"
Thanks again! DrB

OK. Let's get "old-school" on this. It really depends on what you want to accomplish. Whether you want them to run for a long time, or just for a while... And consider this information "very" general. As you know, you are never sure until you look.


If they are no-oil starts, since the factory puts oil in to test run and then sucks it back out to ship them, chances are good that the lower bearing is intact. Odds are the upper bearing is probably not really that bad either since it's probably running on a bronze sleeve (not positive because of the model number issue, Briggs and everyone else in this industry keeps cheapening equipment up so it'll sell through the big box stores). The most likely damage is between the rod and crank. More pressure. Aluminum rod. More heat. If you get transfer to the rod journal, they may seize when they're hot (expansion), then break loose once they cool down (contraction). It's a crap shoot how long they last after that if they free up. Maybe minutes. Maybe hours. Maybe years.


I'm not sure how low the compression is you're talking about. These engines do have a compression release, so a leakdown test actually tells you more, but try a "springback" test. Turn the flywheel counterclockwise from above until you get compression, then see if it springs back with a pretty good snap when you let go. A "thumb-in-the-sparkplug-hole" test works pretty well too. If you fall below 60 psi on your compression test I'd be worried. You might also check for a sticking valve. The guide got hot, right?


You can take the head off, but the cylinder is part of the crankcase. So broken rings means you got to take off the sump and loosen the connecting rod from inside. Then you push it out through the head side.


A couple of really good parts breakdown sites are:


There's a lot of units returned to the stores. You probably won't get rich, but it's sure kept a roof over may head and food on the table fo 23 years now.


Best of luck!

Another couple of sites you might like:


Rick and 2 other Small Engine Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Alrighty! Now were're talking old school! Not looking to get rich just do something better than 6 cents/lb at the metal yard with (much) spare time on my hands..
Thanks VERY Much for all your help!!

You are so much more than welcome. Let me know if I can help as you go forward with this. Feel free to request me by name if I can answer anything for you. I'm on here quite a bit.


I wish you the very best of success. And thanks for the accept and the BONUS!



Customer: replied 7 years ago.
You are more than welcome! There are not many "old school" mechanics out there that are willing to give a straight answer, but I consider your last answer straight and most definitely informative (I'm just looking to make them run and see if they're going to bring more than 6 cents/lb at the metal yard) And my feedback will reflect so.
Maybe I should get on that site for old Japanese motorcycles, but I'm not sure anybody gives a ratz patootie about 'em......... (LOL)

You never know. You can certainly make few extra dollars after you move up the ranks, but they sure have a tough verification process to prove you really know your stuff. And it sounds like you do. It might be a nice addition to the mower gig. I was really amazed at the volume of questions that come through. Wish I'd thought of it. It's a great site.


Thanks for the kind words and great feedback!

Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Don't want to be an addition to the mower gig, as I mentioned I'm retraining myself since I have all these freebies coming in.
My expertise lies in 50's/ 60's/ 70's JAPANESE Motorcycles, cause that's what I grew up with (not being able to afford a Harley at the time, but I got a good deal on one in '91 and still ride it (1977 FXE Superglide) But my passion is 0ld Hondas, because that's what I grew up with.
I can tell you most anything you would want to know about a 60's~70's Jap bike (including a lot not written in the books, since I deal with problems not covered in the books)
But nobody seems to want that info these days. Perhaps, I'm wrong and if so, feel free to forward this info to the powers that be. I'd welcome a challenge test just to see what I remembered after 54 years. (LOL)
Many thanks again and very good typing to you!
Pleasure's been mine. You really ought to apply in the motorcyle category!
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
I might just do that... Many thanks again!
Hope to see you on here...