Hi Gary, this is Dave, The Small Engine Doctor. The symptom, taken by itself indicates a substantial vacuum leak, or failure to produce enough vacuum in the intake port to properly charge the cylinder.Obviously something happened that caused you to do this work which you don't mention but regardless, lets get you fixed up!!! You commented that the fuel pump was OK. Did you try the pump while it was installed? Often if you operate it off of the engine it looks great because you can operate the push rod all you want but installed, it's limited to the amount the cam will lift it, so thats one thing you might have to check. The biggest thing thou is the "heat deflector" as they call it. It's more like a heat insulator. It's that plastic "thing" that is between the carb and the head and I've seen these things give people more grief (myself included) than you would believe. What happens over time is that they warp and become distorted. It looks OK so you put it back with a new gasket and forget about it and then go nuts for a couple of days. If you look at it very carefully you'll see the warpage. I'm NOT SAYING THAT THIS IS THE EXACT PROBLEM but, it often is!! You can resurface with a belt sander, WITH GREAT CARE and a well used belt because remember, its plastic. Put it all back together with a little Perma-tex on every mating surface and see what happens!!!!
If this answer fixes your problem, you can go ahead and click the "accept" button and whatever feedback would be greatly appreciated. I'll be here for any additional help if need be. Sincerely, Dave
Hi Gary, While your waiting till Monday why dont you do this little experiment. Get a fresh piece of sandpaper, preferably wet-dry about 220-320. Put the paper down on a very flat surface (something that is Formica covered works well). Take the heat shield and while holding the paper with one hand, rub the heat shield in a circular motion with the other. A little oil works good also. Do this for a few seconds at first . Then clean it off and take a look. The high spots will show up and so will the low. The low spots is where you're leaking.
As far as it flopping around, its the carb that holds it tight against the head or I should say when you tighten the carb, it should hold the insulator tight and there should be gaskets on EVERY mateing surface. Let me know how you make out !!
Hi Gary, Thats hard to say. One things for sure. When working on anything where your going to have to mess around with wires, the first thing you have to do is disconnect the battery. I would start by looking "under" the dash, behind the instrument panel. There are fuse, but there are also a number of relays and things like that. Look for anything that looks burnt and smells. Actually, the regulator is not on the same circuit as the ignition coil, unless you crossed some wires in the harness. What you really have to worry about is the alternator, which is connected DIRECTLY to the regulator and is located under the flywheel. One "saving grace" is that the wire that probably sparked is the one marked (and connected to through the switch) "battery" and theres probably a fuse there somewhere. Just start looking around at all of the wires and harnesses and you'll probably find something.
When you get around to hitting the "accept" key, remember that feedback is always greatly appreciated as is any bonus's and remember, that doesn't preclude and further help. Good luck, Dave