Alright, Lets first talk about how this system works and it will help you diagnose both the left and right side windows.
The way that power windows function is to switch the power and ground through the switch. You sound rather car savy, so I am sorry if I am telling you things that you already know I just want to be accurate in all of the testing.
The wire colors on the right rear are:
Light green,from the driver's switch
dark blue, power through the driver's switch window lock out button
purple, from the driver's switch
Dark blue, the the window motor
brown, to the window motor
The wire color for the left rear are:
dark green, from the driver's switch
dark blue, power through the driver's switch lock out
dark blue, to the motor
brown, to the motor.
Now that we know all of the wire colors, We need to figure out what we are missing and why. Now a test light is a good tool but a multi-meter would be much better.
With a test light, I need you to connect your clip to a chassis ground. Once you have done this I need you put the probe of you light on the dark blue wire coming out of the rear switch. Put the switch into the up position..Does your test light, light?
If so, leave your clip on chassis ground and probe the brown wire and push the window switch down, does you test light, light?
If both of these first two steps are okay, Then I need you to connect the clip of your test light to battery power. We are now going to check the grounds. Probe the brown wire while putting the window switch in the up position, does the light,light?
Probe the dark blue wire while pushing the window switch down, does the light, light?
Please let me know which test failed and I'll tell you where to look for the problem
I tested all the wires (constant power, up, and down). They are all showing power. I don't have a volt meter. I herd something on another website about a breaker that cuts the power once the window hits the top or bottom. Have you heard about this? And if so where is it?
Did you connect the test light to power and check the ground signal. You can skip this step and hook your light inbetween the connector going to the motor and pull the switch up. If the test light, light's....We know that there is power and ground to the motor. The only question is then if the wiring is good and able to carry the needed amperage to run the motor.
If your light light's up but the window will still not go up. I want you to jump power to the window motor direct to atleast get your window up. Disconnect the window motor and at the motor connector, jump power to the dark blue wire and ground to the brown wire.
This will make the motor go up and we'll then figure out why the motor is not working properly....
I have already done that. Its not the motor either. I just got a new motor.
So you already put the window up?
Here's the thing, All it takes is the window switch to reverse polarity to the window motor to make the window go up and down.
I am not seeing what is missing here. If you have power and ground to the wires that go to the window motor and the power and ground switch back and fourth, the window should go up and down with no problem.
let me know that you are sure that the power/ground is switching wires and then I will tell you all of the points to hook up jumper wires to find the bad wire/connection.
If the switch is switching....We have a voltage drop problem due to a bad switch contact or a bad wire.
I have determined that the problem is in the ground. The ground is working when I push down but not up. And the reverse on the other side. How can I fix this?
I will be looking deeper into the electrical diagrams tonight. I will get your answer sent over to you...
Well, looking at the wiring diagrams the only cause is failed window switches..
There is 1 more check that you can do, though i think its not worth your time, you could check the dark blue wire that comes from the master switch to verify that you never loss your ground.
I think that you will find that you just need a couple of switches and all your problems will be solved
Have a great weekend!!!
Ok I tested the drivers rear control and everything is fine there. Power up and down for both rear windows. I connected the test light at the back of the plug one end to the "up wire" and the other end to the "down wire", so the ground is fine there.
Then I connected the test light to the plug that plugs into the regulator (one end to the up wire and the other to the down) and pushed the drivers control and no power up or down.
I tested the rear window switch and I have power down but not up. One end of the light into the "up wire" the other to the "down wire" I have power going down not up.
I tested the other rear window and I have power going up but not down..
I am sorry for the delay, we have been without internet all weekend, lets see what we can figure out.
On the window that won't go up, I would like you to push the switch to the up position and check these wires for power and ground...
1. Dark blue from driver's switch should have constant power.....
2. Dark blue to the window regulator should have power...
3. Brown wire to the window regulator should have ground...
If the brown wire does not have ground, check to be sure that the purple wire has ground.
Let me know what you find and I verify the source of the problem
On the side that you don't have ground when you push the switch up, Do you have ground on the purple wire?
This is the ground signal from the master switch, If you have ground there, There is no doubt that the rear switch has failed..
Check out this diagram and it may help out...
I replaced both the front and rear window switches. Is there a switch or something that controls the ground.
there are two wires that connect to the motor when going up one is power and the other is ground when going down they switch. What controls this?
The switching is done by the driver's master switch when pushed from the driver's position and the rear window switch when pushed from the rear switch..
In both cases, the power and ground switching is done directly from the control switch, If you look in the diagram, you will see that the reason I want you to check the purple wire when you are pushing the switch upis because you said that the motor has power but no ground, if there is ground to the purple wire, that is the ground feed for the rear switch in the up position, if the ground is not making it through the switch, the switch is no good.
I know that you have replaced the switches, were they new from Saturn?
The purple wire at the rear window is not working.
You will then need to check the purple wire coming out of the driver's window switch, with the switch in is normal position, the purple wire should have ground on it. If it does, there is a break in the wiring between the master switch and the rear window switch. If there is no ground, the master switch has failed..
Let me know what you find...
Here are the results of the tests.
1. test light connected to the chassis ground touched test light to dark blue and pushed up test light lights up (power)
2. test light connected to teh chassis ground touched test light to brown and pushed down test light lights up (power)
3. test light connected to the blue constent battorie power touched the test light to the dark blue (up wire) test light lights up before I push up on the switch (ground works)
4. test light connected to the blue constent battorie power touched the test light to the brown (down wire) no light, pushed the switch both up and down no light (ground is not working)
1. test light connected to the chassis ground touched the test light to the dark blue wire and pushed the switch up test light lights up (power)
2. test light connected to the chassis ground touched the test light to the brown wire and pushed the switch down the test light lights up (power)
3. test light connected to the blue constent battorie power touched the test light to the dark blue (up wire) and pushed up light lights up (power)
4 test light connected to the blue constent battorie power touched the test light to the brown (down wire) and pushed up light lights up (power)
Okay, first on the left rear. step 4 failed testing. We need to connect the test light between the constant power and the purple wire. If the purple wire is grounded..The L.R switch is bad...if the is no ground, the purple wire then needs to be checked at the drivers door master switch for ground. If there is ground, the wire is broken between the two switches. If there is no ground, the drivers switch is bad........
Next, on the right rear..The results of step 3 are actually bad...With a test light connected to constant battery power, you should have no test light lighting up. You have your test light on constant power and you are testing the dark blue wire which gets power when in the up position...
What is so confusing is that in step 1 your test light lite up when you were on chassis ground and connected to the dark blue wire and pushed up, but in step 3, if your test light lite up, that means that the wire was then grounded....Can you please recheck step 3..If the results are the same, check the dark blue wire while pushing up on the driver's master switch....I am trying to determine whether the R.R switch is for sure bad...
I think your right,,,This crazy car is possessed...LOL
Front switch both purple wires are grounded.
Left rear purple wire is not grounded.
I rechecked the right rear and I have ground at the purple wire. I have ground and power going up but not down.
If the purple wire to the left rear is not grounded, you will need to find the break in the wire between the left rear and the left front...
In the right rear, do you have either power or ground when pushing the switch down or are you missing both?