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Saab 9000 CSE Turbo: My son says the check engine light flashes

 
350matt's Avatar
  • Answered by:350matt
  • Engineer - BEng Hons
  • Positive Feedback: 96.4 %
  • Accepted Answers: 200
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in Saab

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Customer Question

My son say's the check engine light flashes three times, the car stalls but will start but will stall again on his 93 saab 9000. this seems to happen on hot days, he has run out of gas once and has had to boost the battery at least once, cause he left lights on. is there anything we can check or change to fix the check engine light. thx

 

Country: Canada
Make: Saab
Model: 9000 CSE Turbo
Year: 1993

Already Tried:
have done nothing to car so far

Submitted: 317 days and 23 hours ago.
Category: Saab
Value: CA$18
Status: CLOSED
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Expert:  350matt replied 317 days and 15 hours ago.

Hello


does the check engine light flash all the time and stay on ?

Customer replied 315 days and 9 hours ago.



1993 saab 9000 cse automatic
drove car to calgary from lethbridge early in the morning with no problems to speak of. on the way back the weather was above 22 c outside and after about an hour of driving the car stalled when i let off the throttle. the temperature gauge registered middle the engine was not over heating. i tried starting the car 5 to ten minutes later and it started up no problems i continiued driving for another 20 minutes and the same thing happened again. Took car to local import mechanic and was told there was an error in the lectronic fuel system and an error in the oxygen sensor. Fuel filter was replaced. Another hot day i was driving the car around the city and once again the engine stalled out the temperature read normal again and there was no steam coming from the hood started the car back up right away and drove somewhere to safel;y park it. seems the problem only exist if the weather is hot



Accepted Answer

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Expert:  350matt replied 315 days and 6 hours ago.

Hello

This could be a wiring issue as things tend to expand when hot and its possible a poor or partial electrical connection is being pushed apart on one of the major sensors so check the connection plug and wiring to the following;

Airflow meter
Crank position sensor
O2 sensor
Throttle position sensor


Also worth checking the connections to the fuel pump for the same reason - unplug each in turn and give them a good squirt of switch / contact cleaner - Not WD40

and also unplug and inspect the main power relays and fuses for signs of overheating or corroded terminals - so the ones for the ECU and the fuel pump

And also unplug the wiring loom connections in the engine bay one at time and inspect for corroded or recessed pins.

Also replace the spark plugs if any of them fail this checklist:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqread.asp


Also its worth checking that the electric pump that feeds the injectors is working correctly, it should run for a few seconds then switch off when you first turn the ignition on. If the connections to this are corroded or damaged then the pump could stop at any time. Check that its relay switches in and out and the relay contacts are clean and bright – replace the relay if in any doubt and do the same for the fuse, ideally measure the voltage at the pump and check its getting 12V

This could be an airleak after the airflow meter, any air dragged in here isn't 'seen' by the ECU and so not compensated for and can lean the engine out and can also allow the engine to rev up when not desired causing rough running.
As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometimes hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running.

Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts.

The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas /propane around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.
Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements.

Expert TypeEngineer - BEng Hons
Category: Saab
Pos. Feedback: 96.4 %
Accepts: 200
Answered: 7/4/2012

Experience: Mechanical Engineer with 20 years experience in the auto industry, 8 yrs in formula 1 engine testing

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