My son say's the check engine light flashes three times, the car stalls but will start but will stall again on his 93 saab 9000. this seems to happen on hot days, he has run out of gas once and has had to boost the battery at least once, cause he left lights on. is there anything we can check or change to fix the check engine light. thx
Country: CanadaMake: SaabModel: 9000 CSE TurboYear: 1993
have done nothing to car so far
Hellodoes the check engine light flash all the time and stay on ?
HelloThis could be a wiring issue as things tend to expand when hot and its possible a poor or partial electrical connection is being pushed apart on one of the major sensors so check the connection plug and wiring to the following;Airflow meterCrank position sensorO2 sensorThrottle position sensorAlso worth checking the connections to the fuel pump for the same reason - unplug each in turn and give them a good squirt of switch / contact cleaner - Not WD40and also unplug and inspect the main power relays and fuses for signs of overheating or corroded terminals - so the ones for the ECU and the fuel pumpAnd also unplug the wiring loom connections in the engine bay one at time and inspect for corroded or recessed pins. Also replace the spark plugs if any of them fail this checklist:http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqread.aspAlso its worth checking that the electric pump that feeds the injectors is working correctly, it should run for a few seconds then switch off when you first turn the ignition on. If the connections to this are corroded or damaged then the pump could stop at any time. Check that its relay switches in and out and the relay contacts are clean and bright – replace the relay if in any doubt and do the same for the fuse, ideally measure the voltage at the pump and check its getting 12VThis could be an airleak after the airflow meter, any air dragged in here isn't 'seen' by the ECU and so not compensated for and can lean the engine out and can also allow the engine to rev up when not desired causing rough running.As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometimes hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running.Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts.The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas /propane around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak. Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements.
Mechanical Engineer with 20 years experience in the auto industry, 8 yrs in formula 1 engine testing