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This sounds like one of two things. Either the disconnect solenoid isn't working and the house batteries aren't on and in the loop (most probable) OR the house batteries are not viable. Any that are over 3 years old are suspect and should be load tested to see. Dirty cables on the house batteries, especially the ground lead could do this as well. Start there and then get back to me if we need to go further or do some testing. A small digital multimeter is very helpful for this sort of testing and those are about $20 or so at most hardware stores and easy to use. All follow ups are included in our fee and fully expected.
Sorry for the delay........I have a shop and Mondays can be a zoo! Take your meter and see what kind of DC volts you have going INTO and OUT OF the disconnect solenoid for the house batteries. That is the unit that makes that distinct "click" when you hit the disconenct switch. Check the fuse(s) on there as it may be a blown fuse and just not working. The voltage should be the same on both sides.
You need to take that cover off where is says "Battery Mode and Relays" and the disconnect solenoid is on the right. Test between a ground and the large cable on each side. Set the meter on 20 VDC.
Not really, unless you can get to the start of those leads so you don't have to take that loose. If you do, disconnect the negative lead first on the batteries and then pull that fuse panel forward and out of the way and put something in there to keep it from shorting out and then reconnnect the cable and test.
Is that with you plugged into shore power or not?
I think you mentioned that you had over 13 VDC at the batteries before?
What do you read when it is plugged into shore power? Do each side.
So you have .6 VDC difference and that is a fair amount. I am wondering if those contacts are burned. One way you can tell here is to add a jumper or move one side to the other and see if the lights work that way. If so, you know that the solenoid is bad or failing.
It can be a wire with an alligator clip on each end or a wire with a ring terminal on each end that fits the post on the solenoid OR just move one side over to the other side to see if that restores power.
How old are the house batteries? I am wondering if they are opening up inside when any load it applied.
Then that pretty much shows that the switch is not making good contact inside. Replacing it should fix this.
Have them load tested to see if they are good or failing. And you are welcome! Some questions just take more time to sort out. Please take the time to enter in a rating as that is the only way I get credit from the site for the time I spent assisting you here.
The one you jumped across to get the lights to work............
As far as I can tell, the battery aux start switch is on the left and has no fuses on it.
But you did before?
Are you sure you have good contact from one of the large posts to the other large post? If you aren't using a large enough gauge wire you may burn it up.
O.K...........I think that will resolve this.
Take a look at the attached link for the Aux start solenoid (on the left) and the Battery disconnect solenoid (on the right) and tell me which one you replaced. And then if the one on the right, what is the DC voltage on each side of the solenoid with shore power plugged in. http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/2006/06_d-ser_wire_154491.pdf
That one on the right is the disconnect solenoid and would be the one connecting the house batteries to the system. Isn't that the one you jumped before to get the lights to work?
That link opens all three pages on my side..........
Actually, if you re-read my posts you should see that the disconnect solenoid is the one with the fuse on the right. That is the one I thought you were jumping. You can get that set of diagrams by going to the following link and opening up the page for "Chassis Electrical Box" and get this. http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/2006/06_d34a_wiring.htm
The one on the right with the fuse and probably made by Intellitec. Be sure that it isn't just a blown fuse.
You are most welcome.........and sorry for the confusion on this.
Some applications only use one fuse, so don't worry about the lack of the other one.
Are you sure you got it wired up and turned back on? You have to reset the switch. You told me before when you jumped over that you have lights. If this is wired up right and new and in the correct position it has to work as long as the batteries are good. Does it "click" when you hit the switch?
Just go in and hit it for "Use" on the position. If it clicks, it is working. Try the jumper again across the larger cables on each side and see if the lights work again.
So when it is clicked to "On" they work? If so, then it is working fine.