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Hi my name is Robert...
SO is the fridge not turning on at all AND you have 12 volts at the back of the fridge??
This fridge has a high limit and it is connected to the flue canister, you will see some smaller wires that are smaller then the AC heating element wires, follow the the wires and look for a disc about the size of a quarter, in the center is a tiny button that pops out when it trips, that cuts the power to the fridge. On some later DM models they uses a dioide and you would see that between the flue and circuit board. Let me know if you need more help on this.....
You need to check for voltage through that or check continuity, if needed you can bypass it for testing only... Robert
I believe you should have 12 volts as that loops back around to the board, IF that has voltage then I suspect the upper display panel is at fault, kind of surprised it was not tripped, it does not take much when they pop out it might move 1/8" when you reset it...
Follow that wire back to the board make sure it is not loose etc, and re-check the voltage at the fuse for the DC power, do not touch the AC fuse matter of fact unplug the cord.... I am going to pull a print up and have a better look... Robert
DO you have voltage on J-4?
click HERE and see the last page..... Robert
You can see from the terminal block voltage goes through the main DC supply to J-4, you can also see the ground, make sure the wires in the terminal block are tight and not corroded. Check your ground as well, need to follow the path of the power and see where it is missing, hope this is helpful,,, Robert
I am not sure I understand what you are asking....
IF you have no power on J-4 the fridge is not going to work, that is the main supply that powers the fridge, you should be able to trace the wire from the terminal block (L) to the board. Robert
Hi,,,, Was just checking in to see if my answer helped???