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Are they related? We usually do just one or two at a time...........
One reason for this is that many of us here are well versed in different aspects of RV problems and we like to see the best answer possible. If you put unrelated issues together that may not be possible.
For instance........we have one tech here on site who is really the best for generator questions. Another is great on transmission issue. Some are great with engine performance issues.
And they are?
If it works fine while parked then that pretty much negates that "off hand" diagnosis. A board can be tested to find out if it is bad or not. More likely the LP pressure is too low and the regulator at the tank needs adjustment. That would be the first place to start and always is whenever there is an LP issue.
Many shops never bother to check the LP pressure and it the first thing LICENSED techs are taught. You would be surprised at how little training some of these "techs" actually have. I doubt that the board is at fault. And why not test it and find out? Maybe they did, but then the water heater won't work even when parked. A water heater that has a control board has no pilot light. It comes on via the board when it needs to come on. Why not ask them how they determined this?
We are talking about a board that is over $100 here...........why spend that if it won't solve the problem. Throwing parts at a problem is NEVER the correct way to resolve any issue. 5 minutes of testing can eliminate or confirm that.
If this has a control board, it has no pilot light. Only a manual model has a pilot light and you have to go out and light it by hand. If the LP pressure is correct and that needs to be checked every year, then the fridge and water heater SHOULD stay on and even if the flame blows out, it will re-ignite automatically. There are ways to help out when air flow across the outside is a problem. Almost all LP regulators I check in my shop are low on pressure due to not being checked yearly. Owners just aren't told they have to and many shops just don't bother. Improper training or lack thereof is responsible I suspect.
You can do serious damage to the furnace if the LP pressure is too low. It burns too lean and can burn up the heat exchanger or burner head. That would cost you several hundred to repair. Better to spend $20 and have the pressure checked every year. So it would have been good to say all that in your first response. We don't know what you may or may not have done unless you relay that. I have pretty much told you all I can about this issue.
I have to go to work, so I will opt out of this and let another tech offer something if they can.
Hi my name is Robert...
I would have to agree with Randall, any time you have an issue like this the LP pressure should be verified with a manometer. IF the pressure was good and this only happens when driving what I would try is to move the electrode a little bit closer to the burner tube and try moving the air shutter on the water heater when you are driving, that might prevent it from going out. The board tester will tell them if the board is bad or not. They could be throwing parts at it and hopefully the board was tested. IF the board does not take care of the issue I would check that electrode and the air shutter to see if that helps. IF the water heater is not sparking at all now it could also be a thermal cutoff that has tripped, on the Atwood's there is a brown wire under the outside access panel that has a clear shield over it. That is the thermal cut-off and is a one time fuse. On the suburbans they have a raised box on the outside with two circles and you push in on them to reset. IF you can get me the make and model of the water heater I should be able to send you a service manual so you can see the items I am talking about. Hope this helps some.... Robert
Hi was just checking in to see if my answer helped, IF you have more questions or concerns please feel free to contact me as follow ups are included... Robert