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Did you check all the fuses to see if you just have a blown one? And you can find out if the panel is the issue if you have a small digital multimeter. Let me know and I can direct you in some testing. If you can attach a photo of your panel, that would help here. All follow ups are included in our fee.
That should have been where it was..........if you don't have a small digital multimeter you should stop by a hardware store and pick one up.........about $15 or so and it would make this diagnosis a snap. If the power is still available to the panel then you can bypass it and go directly to the water heater switch. Just be sure that the problem isn't the safety fuse on the water heater. Those get toasted all the time and then it won't come on. Get back to me when you are ready..........R.J.
Got them..........so do you have a small multimeter or a 12 VDC test light and we can track this down?
Can you attach a photo of the REAR side of your switch module so I can direct you on the testing?
Looking at the photos..........do you see the white plastic fuse holder? Did you check that fuse? And you can take it out and test for power INTO that with your meter set on "DC Volts" on the 20 scale. Ground the black probe on the white lead which is the second from the end in the first photo.........that should be a ground. And test for power between that lead at the end of the board and the RED lead on that end, which should be positive. Let me know what you find.
O.K..........did you check the voltage reading between the red and white leads at the end of the board? IF NONE, check between the white lead and the others to see if you get any 12 vDC reading at all and IF SO, which ones.
Check between the yellow/brown and the white.........both with a wire nut and NOT factory! And see if there might be a bad connection in there.
I can't tell from the photo IF one of those wires on the end of the board goes over to those white wires with the wire nut?
I have to leave for an hour of so...........try to find at least one HOT lead coming into that cluster. Larger reds are usually positive. IF you don't find one, chances are good that there is another issue along the way that is causing this. And yes.........for the water heater. Which switch is it from the back? You still have to find a hot lead in there someplace OR a good ground IF that turns out to be the problem.
No problem.........sometimes it takes some digging to get to the answer. That is just part of the job!