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Robert
Robert, RV Mechanic
Category: RV
Satisfied Customers: 12477
Experience:  18 yrs. RV experience including Cummins North West, Country Coach, Monaco Coach - vendor certified.
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Hey Randall, similar to this http://www.justanswer.com/rv-motorhome/5u

Customer Question

Hey Randall, similar to this http://www.justanswer.com/rv-motorhome/5udxk-dometic-fridge-keeps-blowing-fuse-wont-power.html#re.v/174/
my fuse at the RV control panel 12v keeps blowing on the circuit that says refrigerator. The fridge won't power up at all, neither on AC or propane. There are 12V ceiling lights on the slide room that won't light either. The fuse at the control panel was popped. I replaced it, the fridge and lights came back on but only for a few minutes ,then popped again. When I try a new fuse it pops immediately now.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: RV
Expert:  Robert replied 1 year ago.
Hi my name is Robert
Randall has not been around for some time, what is the make and model of the fridge?
Thanks, Robert
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Dometic RM2862
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
There's a 20amp blade fuse on the panel that says it's fridge, and a 20 amp that says it's the slide out room. The one that is identified as the fridge is not popping but the one that says slide out room (and none of the 12v lights in the slide are working either) is the one that pops, but it takes out the slide out lights and fridge when it goes. I replaced both fuses. the fridge fuse is still fine but the slide out room is the one that pops.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
when I got home from work last night (the wife had called to tell me the fridge wasn't working), I checked the fuses on the fuse panel and found the one for the slide out popped. I replaced it, the fridge came back on and the lights in the slide out were working. Ran up to walmart to get some more fuses and when I got back the fuse had popped and the fridge and slide lights weren't working again. just fyi. then when I tried to replace the fuse it would just pop before I even got it inserted. Haven't tried yet this morning.
Expert:  Robert replied 1 year ago.
OK
So lets try this, disconnect the power and ground wire from the fridge and see if the fuse still blows, this might take some going back and forth. Also are you plugged into shorepower and if you are, are you using any adapters or extension cords?
Robert
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
there's a 3 prong plug that plugs into an outlet in the access for the fridge from outside. There's also Ground and batt + terminals on the fridge control panel. Are you wanting the power and ground to the fridge control panel unplugged or the 3 prong power cord unplugged (or both)? Yes, shorepower and no adapters or extension cords. THanks!
Expert:  Robert replied 1 year ago.
All the fridge needs to turn on is DC power. So unplug the ground and Positive from the circuit board and then lets see if the fuse blows. We need to try and eliminate each component as the problem...
Robert
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK Robert. The Batt + and 2 ground wires are disconnected from the control panel on fridge. The fuse is in place in the DC fuse panel. The fuse has not blown and the slide out 12v lights are working.
Expert:  Robert replied 1 year ago.
OK
Did the fuse on the circuit board for the fridge ever blow?
Robert
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
No. Not since we bought it in 2010
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
and i just double checked them and they're both good, including the inline fuse that goes over to the propane burner
Expert:  Robert replied 1 year ago.
OK
So it appears you have a short in the wiring from the panel to the fridge..... What I would do to take care of this issue is just run a wire with a 10 amp inline fuse to the battery, you can wire loom the wire and secure where needed.
The fridge needs clean DC power anyway, it should always get power from the battery side not the converter side, a power converter can put out dirty voltage or AC ripple and the circuit board does not like it, since the fuses are not blowing at the fridge then it has to be where that wire is tied in and it would be impossible for me to say where the bad connection point is so I would run a wire to the battery. Hope this makes sense..... Robert
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
so just bypass the 12v fuse box panel and run a power wire direct from the battery to the terminal on the fridge batt+ circuit board with a 10amp inline fuse on the wire. I'll try that. Thanks Robert!
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
well, spoke too soon. The fuse just blew and the slide out 12v lights went dark. Haven't ran any wires or plugged anything back in however. Some short somewhere else in that power line?
Expert:  Robert replied 1 year ago.
OK
So the fridge is not the issue, next I would check the connection where the wire is hooking up to the breaker panel, if needed change wire and fuse to another slot and see if it blows. I might unplug from power and disconnect the battery so nothing else gets shorted.... this may take some time going back and forth....
Also look for a ground bar behind that and make sure all the connections are tight.
Robert
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK will do. I'll get back to you.
Expert:  Robert replied 1 year ago.
Sounds good, no hurry on my end, I am around daily...
Robert
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
in the meantime I'm gonna run a wire like you said from battery to batt+ with inline fuse to get the fridge back online.
Expert:  Robert replied 1 year ago.
Sounds good.....
Robert