Hi Gene, 1986 Pace Arrow. I have 3 new batteries but can't turn the chassis on at the kill switch so the RV won't start. I cant turn the coach on and get 12+ volts output. If I hold the chassis push button on 'use' a second person can start the RV. If I hold the chassis button on store, sometimes I'll here clicking from teh dash/firewall area.I verified the batteries are hooked up correctly with a manufactures schematic. Any idea why I can't get the chassis to stay on/powered up?
Make (other): Pace Arrow
3 new batteries, verifyed cabling is correct. checked fuses on solenoids.
Hi: Thank you for coming to Just Answer with your question. My name is XXXXX XXXXX perhaps I can assist you with this issue.Gene hasn't posted on here in months...........I am not sure what happened to him. I suspect you have a bad disconnect solenoid if I am understanding your question correctly.OR is may just have a blown fuse and won't stay in the correct mode. Most of these are made by Intellitec and have one or two fuses on the "ears" of the solenoid. Brown tops and usually 5 amps. Hope that proves helpful.............Check this and then we can go from there...............all follow ups are included in our fee. No limit to time or number or responses. Positive Feedback in the form of a "smiley face" would be greatly appreciated when I have fully addressed all your concerns relating to this issue.
I checked the fuses, there's 2 on each solenoid and all are good. Made sure the terminals are on the fuses. If I hold the button on it stays powered up. If I hold it down on 'save' sometimes the light will illuminate, sometimes I'll hear clicking from the dash or firewall area.
Be sure that the batteries are up to full charge as if the voltage is to low these won't work properly. If you haven't had the batteries load tested in the last year that should be done and the cables and terminals cleaned, including the chassis ground. About 80% of the problems here are battery or cable problems. If those all check out then the solenoid is going to need replacing. Most shops carry these and online American RV is a very competitive seller. Please get back to me if you need more on this later.............
Any idea where the ground from the main battery goes? Could that be the issue? Two batteries are less than two weeks old. I fully charged the third which is 18 months old. I checked and all are putting out over 12 volts. How do you test the solenoids?
The ground lead attaches to the chassis underneath. Even new batteries go bad. It happens all the time. The voltage isn't the issue..........that is why load testing is the only good way to test them. They can read good voltage with a meter and then when you put a load on them they go right to zero. You can use a meter to check how much voltage is going to and through the solenoids. When the contacts get burned they can drop voltage.Even if I put those batteries in yesterday I would test them. As soon as you assume something is good here...........it won't be! You can waste a whole bunch of time that way.
I have 12.7 volts to the solenoid but 0 coming out. The other solenoid has the same voltage in and out, as well as at the shutoff switch. Does this indicate the solenoid is bad? The fuses are good.
It is either bad OR in the wrong position. Did you hit the switch and it stays the same?
So I swapped solenoid's . I was getting 13 in and out with the coach and 12.7 in an 0 out of the chassis. The chassis kill switch wouldn't stay on and now it does. I ran out of light so in the next couple of days I have to mount them back on the firewall. I didn't test the 'new' coach solenoid but I'm guessing it won't stay on. At least I can start the RV while I order a new solenoid. If I had a bad solenoid would it also keep the auxillary starter (coach helper) from starting? This never worked since I bought the RV about 5 years ago.
It can as the batteries wouldn't be "in the loop" and so it wouldn't work. No batteries there for that function.............make sense?
So there are 2 wires that run back to the kill switch from the solenoid. I can't get the switch to stay on, but if I reverse the wires it stays on and can't be shut off. Does this mean the solenoid is bad? I'm guessing the plunger won't open or close?
Yes............it needs to be replaced.
RVDA/RVIA MASTER CERTIFIED TECHNICIAN WITH MANY YEARS EXPERIENCE
I replaced it and the kill switch turns on but doesn't consistantly show the voltage. It works, which is my main concern, but I'm not sure why it doesn't show the voltage all the time. Could it be a loose low voltage wire from the solenoid?
Are you talking about to the control wire OR through the solenoid itself? The control wire ONLY has voltage when you hit the switch and then none. That is why they call this a "momentary" switch on these. Glad you got it working!