Good Morning and Happy New Year,Customer This is Dale. Before I answer, I'll need just a bit more information.
Do you happen to have a volt meter or test light?
Can you tell me which room decided to operate by itself?
Can you provide me with the part number of the control board?
I look forward to your reply.
OK, thank you for the information.
If the control board resembles the board pictured in this link: http://powergearus.com/documents/312.pdf
then, yes, that's the controller. Or, where you replaced the fuse is the 12 volt distribution panel. If there are also 120 volt household style breakers located there, then that's the distribution panel, not the slide out relay controller. Most often, Fleetwood located the relay control in the wall/cabinet behind the slide out switches. However I have also seen them located in a lower cabinet and the outside electrical compartment.
This is a link to the slide out service manual: http://www.powergearus.com/documents/Serv_Man_Electric_Slideout_Sys.pdf
It's a large download, about 3.5mb. Here is a link to troubleshooting the relay control: http://powergearus.com/documents/329.pdf
You're going to see two different part numbers for the relay control. The original was part # XXXXX which is probably the one you'll find. That relay control has been replaced with 14-1130. The relay controls don't require placement of the room in a certain position. That's for rooms equipped with the dual amperage sensing control, which you don't have.
Thinking about it, you might check the outside compartments first, somewhere near the batteries, probably. The room starting to operate on it's own is usually indicative of low voltage, moisture/water on the board, or a faulty controller. The fact that the fuse was warm (I'm leaning towards the fuse was in the distribution panel) and the room moving without any input from the switch makes me suspect water/moisture is present on the control board. The board is equipped with fuses/circuit breakers. If the fuse on the board is blown, then you won't have any pass through of current to the motor when the operating switch is pressed. The current flow is: 12 volt distribution panel to the relay control to the slide room motors. The switch is merely a trigger that sends a pulse to activate the relay. If the fuse on the board is blown, then no current can get to the relay to pass through to the motor.
Worst case is upgrading the relay control to the current version.
If necessary, you can manually crank the other rooms in, or disconnect the motor leads at each room and jump them to a battery to long enough to operate the room directly at the motor. If you decide you need to jump the motors to a battery, the motor leads are not polarity specific. If you connect red to positive and black to negative and the room tries to move out when you're wanting to bring it in, simply swap the motor leads with black to positive and red to negative.
Once you locate the relay control, use your meter or a test light to check both sides of the fuse(s) for power.
I strongly suspect the relay control is the issue.
Let me know what you find.
Good to hear you located the first problem. The switch for that relay control requires the center lead to be a 12v supply rather than ground. That voltage supply line gets protected with a 3 amp fuse. The original relay control (1098) was designed to have the relay trigger with a ground pulse, whereas the new relay control (1130) is designed to trigger the relays with a voltage pulse. You don't mention having performed the re-wiring of the switch. See the very first link in my first answer. The TIP sheet from Power Gear explains the replacement procedure from the 14-1098 board to the 14-1130 board.
Let me know.
Power Gear has a nice trubleshooting flow chart here: http://powergearus.com/documents/329.pdf
Start at the top and work your way through the steps following the yes or no arrows to the next step. I suspect it's something simple. One thing to note...in order for current to flow out from the relay control, it must have both the circuit breaker and the slo-blo fuse installed. I see you mentioning that you have to get a fuse, but you don't state whether or not you're using a standard glass fuse in place of the slo-blo.
The reason for the slo-blo fuse is to allow the start up amperage spike to occur without blowing the fuse.
Don't take anything for granted at this point...follow all steps in the troubleshooting chart, double checking as you go, even if it's something that's already been looked at.
Yes the board has those #s it is actually labelled(NNN) NNN-NNNNbut I checked its configuration on the page you sent me that shows all it's parts and it looks the same-of course I can't tell what the actual circuit board innards look like.
Sandra, thank you for verifying the part # XXXXX me. I've been mulling this over since yesterday and I'm not getting any bright flashes of insight. My best advice is to follow the troubleshooting guide and try to verify the wiring coming into the board matches the wiring position. Also double check the ground lead coming into the board. If the circuit is not solidly grounded, then the relay can trip from incoming power, but won't flow because the circuit is not complete.
Hang in there.
OK, you're making progress. I'm guessing that the motor moved when jumpered from 12v to M1 and from GND to M2?
You are proceeding through all the steps correctly, and it does sound to me like a bad board.
Looking at the troubleshooting flow chart, Power Gear failed to actually call out a second step in the continuity checks. That would be to check resistance. It's referred to obliquely, but not called out specifically.
This is how check resistance. Set the meter to Ohms, I would set the range in the hundreds setting. Place the probes between GND pin and M1 pin; then GND pin and M2 pin; and then IN pin and OUT pin. To summarize what Power Gear is saying, if there is little to no resistance, you go to the next step. If resistance is high, then the board is bad and needs to be replaced. Power Gear doesn't specify what high resistance is. In my opinion, anything above 20 ohms is high for this type of board.
Keep plugging away! (nice pun, heh?)
Sandra, I'm glad to have been of assistance. If you're dealing with Brawley Trailer Supply I know that Jesse will take good care of you. I've known him for many years.
When you get back to your trailer, just open the question by clicking the link in one of the email notifications you've received and reply to me inside this thread.
Have a safe trip home. I look forward to seeing a positive outcome.
Hi Dale, we are back in Canada and are on the search for Slow Blow fuses-couldn't find them in CA and can't find them here so far-any idea where we can look?
Where in Canada are you? I'll see if I can help you find somebody that carries or will get the fuses for you.
We are in Sechelt BC but will be going through Vancouver and will be travelling through Abbotsford and Chilliwack in the next couple of days.
OK Sandra. What you need is a 3AG fuse, Series 313 made by Littlefuse, 20 amp rating.
I'm going to cut and paste some information. If the phone numbers get "XXXX'd" out, here is a link to locate a supplier in Canada:
Worst case, contact these folks in California: www.myrvpartsplace.com
I know they can help you out.
Thanks Dale, I called the first one on the list and they have them-we will pick them up tomorrow and bring them back with us on the 20th to complete our reinstallation of the relay board for the slide. Brawley Trailer supply has ordered a new board and it should be there when we get back.
Excellent! Stay warm and be safe.
I'm very happy to hear that all is now working properly. Thank you very much for the positive feedback.