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D. Wood
D. Wood, RV Parts Store Owner
Category: RV
Satisfied Customers: 185
Experience:  Slide Out, Jack & Hitch Specialist
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We have a Fleetwood Prowler 2000 34.5 LSI with 3 Power Gear

Customer Question

We have a Fleetwood Prowler 2000 34.5 LSI with 3 Power Gear slides. One of the slides came in by itself and we have since replaced a fuse that was running very hot. We hand cranked the slide back out. The other two slides were working fine before the large slide came in but now none of the slides will work using the toggle switches. Our battery is good.
The Power gear site has a comment about if the slide is more than half way out when you connect the power you must put it all the way back in to reset the controller-is that what the problem is? What else could be wrong?
Submitted: 4 years ago.
Category: RV
Expert:  D. Wood replied 4 years ago.

Good Morning and Happy New Year,Customer This is Dale. Before I answer, I'll need just a bit more information.

Do you happen to have a volt meter or test light?

Can you tell me which room decided to operate by itself?

Can you provide me with the part number of the control board?

 

I look forward to your reply.

 

Thank You,

 

Dale

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Yes we have a volt meter and test light. The large kitchen slide on the same side as the bedroom slide is the one that acted on it's own.

Is the control board located where we had to replace the fuse? We cannot find anything else that looks like a controller as described in our documentation. This gang of wires is located under the fridge directly in front of the HWT. We have power coming to it from the battery/converter but no power goes to the switches.
There are three plates adjacent to one another and each is labelled "Power Gear" Part # XXXXX
Thank you,Customer
Expert:  D. Wood replied 4 years ago.

OK, thank you for the information.

If the control board resembles the board pictured in this link: http://powergearus.com/documents/312.pdf

 

then, yes, that's the controller. Or, where you replaced the fuse is the 12 volt distribution panel. If there are also 120 volt household style breakers located there, then that's the distribution panel, not the slide out relay controller. Most often, Fleetwood located the relay control in the wall/cabinet behind the slide out switches. However I have also seen them located in a lower cabinet and the outside electrical compartment.

 

This is a link to the slide out service manual: http://www.powergearus.com/documents/Serv_Man_Electric_Slideout_Sys.pdf

 

It's a large download, about 3.5mb. Here is a link to troubleshooting the relay control: http://powergearus.com/documents/329.pdf

 

You're going to see two different part numbers for the relay control. The original was part # XXXXX which is probably the one you'll find. That relay control has been replaced with 14-1130. The relay controls don't require placement of the room in a certain position. That's for rooms equipped with the dual amperage sensing control, which you don't have.

 

Thinking about it, you might check the outside compartments first, somewhere near the batteries, probably. The room starting to operate on it's own is usually indicative of low voltage, moisture/water on the board, or a faulty controller. The fact that the fuse was warm (I'm leaning towards the fuse was in the distribution panel) and the room moving without any input from the switch makes me suspect water/moisture is present on the control board. The board is equipped with fuses/circuit breakers. If the fuse on the board is blown, then you won't have any pass through of current to the motor when the operating switch is pressed. The current flow is: 12 volt distribution panel to the relay control to the slide room motors. The switch is merely a trigger that sends a pulse to activate the relay. If the fuse on the board is blown, then no current can get to the relay to pass through to the motor.

 

Worst case is upgrading the relay control to the current version.

 

If necessary, you can manually crank the other rooms in, or disconnect the motor leads at each room and jump them to a battery to long enough to operate the room directly at the motor. If you decide you need to jump the motors to a battery, the motor leads are not polarity specific. If you connect red to positive and black to negative and the room tries to move out when you're wanting to bring it in, simply swap the motor leads with black to positive and red to negative.

 

Once you locate the relay control, use your meter or a test light to check both sides of the fuse(s) for power.

I strongly suspect the relay control is the issue.

 

Let me know what you find.

 

Sincerely,

 

Dale

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Hi Dale, sorry to take so long to answer. We had to go to town to buy the relay. We now have the relay, it is installed and requires a 20 amp slo blow fuse. The original working slides are now working again, it was loose wire problem.
The kitchen slide relay was shorted out from a leak from the water tank.

We have a meter on the motor leads and when we activate the relay there is no " 12 volt dc" voltage at the motor leads. What could the problem be?

The old board # XXXXX had one relay on it and the new one #140-1130 (as shown in the replacement catalogue) has two relays, is there anything we should do differently because of this?

When we activate the switch we can hear the relay clicking but no voltage at motor leads. I do read voltage when placing the meter on a motor lead to B+ but there is no voltage when we activate the relay on the two motor leads. Anything you can tell us?
Expert:  D. Wood replied 4 years ago.

Good to hear you located the first problem. The switch for that relay control requires the center lead to be a 12v supply rather than ground. That voltage supply line gets protected with a 3 amp fuse. The original relay control (1098) was designed to have the relay trigger with a ground pulse, whereas the new relay control (1130) is designed to trigger the relays with a voltage pulse. You don't mention having performed the re-wiring of the switch. See the very first link in my first answer. The TIP sheet from Power Gear explains the replacement procedure from the 14-1098 board to the 14-1130 board.

 

Let me know.

 

Dale

D. Wood, RV Parts Store Owner
Category: RV
Satisfied Customers: 185
Experience: Slide Out, Jack & Hitch Specialist
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Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Thank you Dale, the fellow who is helping us with this says there is no output from the Relay Board Motor Terminals. The switch wire has been switched from common to the plus side. We will have to go to town tomorrow to get an in line fuse holder, a 3 amp fuse and the 20 amp slo fuse.

But our friend says he should have some output from the board and cannot get it.

Could the new relay board(NNN) NNN-NNNNbe defective?? or is there something else we might have done wrong?
Thank you, Sandra
Expert:  D. Wood replied 4 years ago.

Power Gear has a nice trubleshooting flow chart here: http://powergearus.com/documents/329.pdf

 

Start at the top and work your way through the steps following the yes or no arrows to the next step. I suspect it's something simple. One thing to note...in order for current to flow out from the relay control, it must have both the circuit breaker and the slo-blo fuse installed. I see you mentioning that you have to get a fuse, but you don't state whether or not you're using a standard glass fuse in place of the slo-blo.

The reason for the slo-blo fuse is to allow the start up amperage spike to occur without blowing the fuse.

 

Don't take anything for granted at this point...follow all steps in the troubleshooting chart, double checking as you go, even if it's something that's already been looked at.

 

Let me know what you find.

 

Dale

Expert:  D. Wood replied 4 years ago.
I just had another thought...can you verify the board is labeled with part # XXXXX?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Yes the board has those #s it is actually labelled(NNN) NNN-NNNNbut I checked its configuration on the page you sent me that shows all it's parts and it looks the same-of course I can't tell what the actual circuit board innards look like.

Sandra

Expert:  D. Wood replied 4 years ago.

Sandra, thank you for verifying the part # XXXXX me. I've been mulling this over since yesterday and I'm not getting any bright flashes of insight. My best advice is to follow the troubleshooting guide and try to verify the wiring coming into the board matches the wiring position. Also double check the ground lead coming into the board. If the circuit is not solidly grounded, then the relay can trip from incoming power, but won't flow because the circuit is not complete.

 

Hang in there.

 

Dale

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Hello Dale
We now have the 5 amp fuse and in line fuse holder but could not find Slow Blow fuses in 20 or 25 amp. We do however have a regular 20 amp fuse
On the trouble shooting chart for continuity everything checks out. Fuses are good. There is continuity on all the terminal checks. There is no power to the motor when the relays are energized forward or reverse.
I switched the connectors from the kitchen controller (that is the one that is not working) to the living room controller and took the switch lead from hot place on the common. The kitchen slide now works from the living room controller. On the new controller for the kitchen the relays "forward and reverse" are energizing properly but there is no DC output to the motor. The relays are working we hear them clicking
Can it be a faulty control board? Is there another way to check?

Expert:  D. Wood replied 4 years ago.

OK, you're making progress. I'm guessing that the motor moved when jumpered from 12v to M1 and from GND to M2?

You are proceeding through all the steps correctly, and it does sound to me like a bad board.

Looking at the troubleshooting flow chart, Power Gear failed to actually call out a second step in the continuity checks. That would be to check resistance. It's referred to obliquely, but not called out specifically.

This is how check resistance. Set the meter to Ohms, I would set the range in the hundreds setting. Place the probes between GND pin and M1 pin; then GND pin and M2 pin; and then IN pin and OUT pin. To summarize what Power Gear is saying, if there is little to no resistance, you go to the next step. If resistance is high, then the board is bad and needs to be replaced. Power Gear doesn't specify what high resistance is. In my opinion, anything above 20 ohms is high for this type of board.

 

Keep plugging away! (nice pun, heh?)

 

Dale

 

 

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Hi Dale, well here I am again, we have been plugging along till now and have finally decided that it must be the board that is faulty. We called the supplier in Brawley and we are returning the board this am and asking them to order us another.
I can't thank you enough for your expert assistance and for hanging in there with us and guiding us all the way.
I will do the accept thing now but would like to know how I can reach you again to let you know what happens.
We are flying home to Canada for a couple of weeks and the part should be here by the time we get back. I have printed off all your answers and the TIPS so we should be able to install the board with that guidance.
Again, thank you so much!
Sandra
Expert:  D. Wood replied 4 years ago.

Sandra, I'm glad to have been of assistance. If you're dealing with Brawley Trailer Supply I know that Jesse will take good care of you. I've known him for many years.

When you get back to your trailer, just open the question by clicking the link in one of the email notifications you've received and reply to me inside this thread.

 

Have a safe trip home. I look forward to seeing a positive outcome.

 

Sincerely,

 

Dale

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Hi Dale, we are back in Canada and are on the search for Slow Blow fuses-couldn't find them in CA and can't find them here so far-any idea where we can look?

Thanks, Sandra

Expert:  D. Wood replied 4 years ago.

Where in Canada are you? I'll see if I can help you find somebody that carries or will get the fuses for you.

 

Dale

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

We are in Sechelt BC but will be going through Vancouver and will be travelling through Abbotsford and Chilliwack in the next couple of days.

Cheers, Sandra

Expert:  D. Wood replied 4 years ago.

OK Sandra. What you need is a 3AG fuse, Series 313 made by Littlefuse, 20 amp rating.

I'm going to cut and paste some information. If the phone numbers get "XXXX'd" out, here is a link to locate a supplier in Canada:

http://www.fusetek.com/scatdata.cfm?showdata=yes&SELECTEDMID=1&SELECTEDSCATID=57&SCDATID=81

 

Company:Eecol Electric
Address: 3600- East 1st Ave
Contact: Sam Galea
N/A
Postal Code: V5M 1C3
City: Vancouver
Phone: (604)(NNN) NNN-NNNN/td>
Fax: 604-294-2574
Email: N/A
Website: N/A

 

Company:Torbram
Address: 1975 Quebec Street
Contact: Craig Smeding
N/A
Postal Code: V5T 2Z4
City: Vancouver
Phone: 604-709-9911
Fax: 604-709-9959
Email: N/A
Website: N/A

 

Company:Torbram
Address: 30468 Great Northern Ave
Contact: Raf Feeney
Unit 101
Postal Code: V2T 6H4
City: Abbotsford
Phone: 604-864-6411
Fax: 604-864-6469
Email: N/A
Website: N/A

 

Company:Bartle & Gibson
Address: 44653 Yale Road
Contact: Maurice Gerding
N/A
Postal Code: V2R 4H3
City: Chilliwack
Phone: (604)(NNN) NNN-NNNN/td>
Fax: (604)(NNN) NNN-NNNN/td>
Email: N/A
Website: N/A

 

Company:Eecol Electric
Address: 46090 Airport Road
Contact: Rob Milne
N/A
Postal Code: V2P 1A5
City: Chilliwack
Phone: (604)(NNN) NNN-NNNN/td>
Fax: N/A
Email: milnert@eecol.com
Website: N/A

 

Worst case, contact these folks in California: www.myrvpartsplace.com

I know they can help you out.

 

Sincerely,

 

Dale

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Thanks Dale, I called the first one on the list and they have them-we will pick them up tomorrow and bring them back with us on the 20th to complete our reinstallation of the relay board for the slide. Brawley Trailer supply has ordered a new board and it should be there when we get back.

Cheers, Sandra

Expert:  D. Wood replied 4 years ago.

Excellent! Stay warm and be safe.

 

Dale

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Hi Dale, well we are finally finished with the repair to our slide. We got the new relay from Brawley Trailer Supply and our neighbour here who is an industrial electrician followed the directions you gave us and all is well.
Thank you so much for your patient, knowledgeable help. We could not have done it without you-the electrician says he would not have known how to do the new configuration with the replacement relay. Thank you again.
Sandra
Expert:  D. Wood replied 4 years ago.

Sandra,

 

I'm very happy to hear that all is now working properly. Thank you very much for the positive feedback.

 

Sincerely,

 

Dale W.

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