Reply to MechanicMan's Post: I have a scanner but because the battery is almost dead and I have removed the cables several times the codes just will not be there unless it is electrical problem. I do not think there are any codes coming relative to this problem. Something similar to this happened and it was fuse #12 which has to do with ASD but I have installed a 30amp fuse and it appears to be good. Me and another man checked all the fuses and he thinks there is an electrical short somewhere and that is why there is no spark. It has a relatively new starter and turns over but just no spark to the coil.

OK I think it is narrowing down and I need some real help here. This is a 3.0 Liter Engine. I got a powerful jump starter and fairly new battery and then cranked the engine over numbereous times and finally got an OBD Code with my scanner. It was P0340 - No Cam Signal to PCM and to further explain - No Camshaft Signal Detected During Engine Cranking. I did some additional research and it seems the camshaft position sensor is part of the distributor in this engine. So is this a wire shorted from the camshaft sensor to the PCM (believe the wire is shown or stated as yellow and tan going from camshaft sensor to PCM) I think based on a Haynes Manual the camshaft sensor is located just below the bottom portion of the distributor. I removed the distributor cap and cleaned the rotor and metalic contacts thinking that perhaps the distributor needed to rotate and perhaps did not due to corroded contacts but cranked and still nothing happened no spark. Am I going to have to replace the entire distributor in order to have a functioning camshaft position sensor because that is not a cheap option -$375 to $400 for aftermarket distributor with integral camshaft position sensor or is it more likely a shorted wire. If necessary I would buy another distributor from a 1996 Dodge Caravan Salvage and take this one out and put in the other but dont know how to align the new distributor relative to the position when I took out the other. Anyhow on additional reading it appears when there is no signal from the camshaft position sensor the electrics will shut down via the ASD which controls fuel injector elec pulse and pulse to coil. The 3.3 liter and the 3.8 liter are pretty well explained as to how to remove and replace the existing camshaft position sensor but the manual states that the camshaft position sensor is integral with the distributor and gives little information on how to deal with this situation. I took some photos of the distributor and the camshaft position sensor but do not know how to remove the wiring coupler to the internal sensor.

So new distributor, salvage distributor, or is it a short in the wire or is there another way to deal with getting this sensor to work? I am stranded on the highway sleeping in my car taking bus back and forth to library trying to figure this one out - this car is my house and my transportation.

OK I believe this is where the electrical exits from the distributor, correct. The wire on the far left is black and blue, the wire in the middle is orange and the wire on the right is tan and yellow (which I believe is the wire responsible for sending the signal to the PCM - but I really do not know) You said I was to check the power to the sensor and see if it was 8 volts (do I have to have the engine cranking over in order to do this - in other words someone else will have to be cranking the engine) And how do I remove this sensor plug from the distributor socket (it has a red tab on top but moving it from side to side does not seem to release the plug from the socket and I assume the plug must be removed from the socket and somehow I have to use a voltmeter to test the current running from the battery to the sensor or visa versa) How do you check continuity with a multi-meter (this meter cost 10 bucks it measures AC Voltage, DC Voltage and Ohm's but no specific directions for how to determine continuity) Is the orange wire the one I need to check for continuity from the distributor. and then testing resistance to ground - do I do that with a circuit tester. I do have a friend who can help me with the electrics testing if it is too time consuming for you. You seem to indicate that I am testing to see if the circuitry is working and if so it is the sensor that is bad. To replace the camsensor is about 400 dollars for aftermarket so if I need to replace the camshaft sensor than I will probably try and obtain a salvage unit. Can you walk me through the installation of a salvaged distributor which I should be able to pick up for a whole lot less than 400. I went into a garage today and talked to a pretty savy mechanic who has worked on a lot of 3.0 Liter Dodge Engines and the first thing he asked me is how many miles and is the distributor new or a replacement - when I told him probably the original distributor and has 215000 miles he said basically your camshaft sensor is gone so you will have to replace the distributor. Then there is the wheel bearings and the need to put a new cat on in order to pass inspection so I can register the vehicle. Anyhow this is not an easy route. Last night slept in the car I am heating with propane and using 2 sleeping bags one is mummy bag and I either need to get this thing running or figure out something else since this is not a fun way to live. Tell me if you got the snapshot as that was a real trick. Taking with camera phone uploading to internet and then attaching to this email.