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Question

One of my budgies is llosing his feathers on their forehead but nowhere else, any suggestions. It is a caged bird

Submitted: 150 days and 22 hours ago.
Category: Bird
Value: $11
Status: CLOSED
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Optional Information

Pet's Gender: Male
Pet's Age: 1
Type of Animal: Budgie

Already Tried:
I have just sprayed it with mite spray

Posted by S. August Abbott, CAS 150 days and 21 hours ago.

Info Request

As long as this is an indoor bird, not exposed to other birds and kept in a clean environment, you won't need the mite spray. In fact, even if this were actually a mite infection, those sprays aren't effective, no matter what they say on the packaging. Neither are those things made to attach to the cage.

So let's explore other more likely possibilities. Is this area completely bald or are there still some feathers there?

Do you see little pin feathers coming in at this area?

What kind of food is your little one eating for the most part (seed blend or pellets)?

Does he get covered at night and if so, for how long ? Is this is a regular routine?

What else can you tell me about his routine and schedule?

150 days and 21 hours ago.

Reply

the area looks like there are some tiny feathers. the diet is made up of bird seed with occasional apple. The cage is covered for approximately 8-10 hrs every night. There are 8 other budgies in the cage at night but they are free to fly around during the day.

150 days and 21 hours ago.

Reply

Hi again, I think the affected area on the forehead looks scaly. None of the other birds look affected.

Accepted Answer


Thanks for the extra info. There are a few things that might be going on and I'll go over the more likely ones here. Keep in mind though that a hands on exam is the only way to know for sure and get a definitive diagnosis.

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Scaly Face Mange Mites are a possibility that perhaps came from the bird's parents and were hidden until now. Mites are not common infections on well kept, indoor birds, but yours are still pretty young and may have been exposed before coming to you.



There will a powdery look to the scaly part of the bird’s feet and skin. As the infection takes hold, upon close examination the area will look like a honeycomb and the growths can become so big that they hang from the feet, thus another name for this is “tassle foot” .


To diagnose these mites, a skin scraping is required by a vet.


Knemidokoptes or Scaly Face mites are often behind a condition called “bumble foot”, but can become a lifelong problem affecting the beak, cere and face.


A bird with knemidokoptes will usually show discolored cere, growths or projections near and on the nares/nostrils and depending on far along it is, peeling, crusting, powdery flaking or deformation of the beak.


There are no home treatments for this very serious condition and quick professional treatment is required in order to have the best chance of full and uncomplicated recovery.



Ivermectin specifically for birds is many times used to treat, but it’s only through vets and must be formulated for your individual.


There is more info here:


http://www.avianweb.com/scalylegs.html





---- This might be a major molt that this individual is experiencing in this particular way. Not all birds molt at the same rate or in the same way as others. The fact that you see some pin feathers coming in is very promising and tends to indicate that there's not a disease going on.


Otherwise, feather loss in the head or neck area is often the result of a more serious disease such as PBFD (beak and feather disease) or a number of others.

--- When it comes to self mutilation, over preening or feather plucking, in more than 90% of all cases it's related to nutrition.


The most recent research over the last ten years or more is that a pellet diet is by far the best option for all birds kept by humans. A seed diet, even those that claim to be fortified, complete or extra special in any way - are still seeds. It's like feeding a child nothing but ice cream and candy. Eventually they're going to develop health problems from it and birds are no different. Seed eaters tend to have more health problems, feather problems, tumors, liver and kidney disease than birds on a mostly pellet diet.

You can see more about best birdy nutrition here Click



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Another problem that may arise in multi-housed birds is over-grooming each other (or one may over-groom the other). You may end up with a very shredded looking bird that’s being feather plucked by a mate (they can be two males or two females as well). When this happens you need to be sure it’s not being caused by an underlying parasite that the plucking bird is trying to resolve on their partner so a vet visit is always a good idea.


You should also double check the size of their enclosure and perhaps provide something even slightly larger.


Adding a food and water dish to the ones already there might also help them resolve this if it’s territorial aggression. Even if they continue to share the same dishes, at least they know the option is there.

Changing out some toys, bells, other interactive features may give them something different to focus on.

---- Finally, make sure the living arrangment is large enough for this number of birds.

Even though they're free flying during the day, they need their own space to roost at night, especially if you have mixed sexes and they're at maturity (1 year or older).

For 8 birds you'd need at least a 4' tall x 3'wide/deep sleep cage.

It sounds like you really love your little companions. You're doing a very good job with their sleep hours. You can even increase it to 12 if you'd like a more natural balance for them.

If they're not exposed to natural, unfiltered sunlight during the day, try installing a full spectrum light made specifically for birds (not the ones for reptiles or plants) - this will also help prevent any feather plucking and some other problems from happening.

Keep up the really good care!

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Expert: S. August Abbott, CAS
Pos. Feedback: 99.6 %
Accepts: 1778
Answered: 10/21/2009

Certified Avian Specialist

Cert. Avian Specialist; Int. Assoc.Animal Behavior Consult; Pet Ind. Joint Advisory Council; author

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