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Question

I have a 2004 gtx seadoo, Full chaged battery, clean battey connections and tight. I have checked all fuses twice (all 10).... I have both keys, both react the same.... rode ski for 20 min. parked for an hour, got back on it put key on/in get three beeps, and long beep, hit start button and get slight audable click and dash goes blank. pull key, re-insert key no beeps no click, pulled battery near full charged, charged fully reinstalled same thing.. when key is installed and if it doesn't beep i just get a "SEA DOO" on dash. to me seems like key/ ignition/ programming becuase it doesn't seem to reconize key is being inserted one out of ten times...I can't affort to take it in, please help, Steve

Submitted: 57 days and 5 hours ago.
Category: Boat
Value: $28
Status: CLOSED
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Optional Information

Make (of engine): Bombardie
Model (of engine): 1490 cc
Year: 2004
Horsepower: 155

Already Tried:
Charged battery (new last year, been on Battery tender since). Cleaned battery connections and retightened checked all fuses tried both keys.

Posted by Jeremy Railsback 57 days and 2 hours ago.

Answer

Hi,
Couple things you can do.
Try cleaning the inside of the key and the key post with a pencil eraser.
This does a good job of getting any grime of the contact points.
If that doesn't help. Look inside the ski where the key post is. Follow the wires from it down to the electrical box. It's very common for one of the wires to break and cause your same issue.
Now if those wires are good get an ohm/volt meter and test the two contact points on the key post. It should read 0 or very close to it.

If all of those things are ok then you need a new key.

57 days ago.

Reply

The keys are clean (I didn't mention that), the trainer key is in new condition. At the risk of sounding like a know-it-all, which I don't...... the craft has few hours on the water (like 40 hours) and very few trailer hours (river to home and back twice 1000 miles total), a broken wire from fatige seems very unlikely.... Please don't think I'm discoounting it completely, it hasn't seen a lot of use or road work.... I was thinking it could be a sensor, or starter silonoid or defect of programming. I was checking the plug harnesses next to the fuse blocks, and boy that is some sharp sheet metal they used for mounting..... layed my finger open real well.....Unfortunatly I am 250 miles from the craft, but I'm hoping to return to it with a few tests and/or a solution that I can or cannot repair it myself. Steve

56 days and 2 hours ago.

Reply

Yesterday when I replied, I had an option to open my question to other "Experts", I don't see that option now, how do I get other opinions? I hven't used this service before, so I'm not sure how high to set my expectations, but I was sort of expecting a response like "this is fairley common in 2003 Sea Doo's, They have a problem with...... Or this is highly unusual, try this, this and this...... The answer I got for my expert seemed very generic..

53 days and 6 hours ago.

Reply

Last night I received an email from Jeremy asking to accept the answer or tell him why I wasn't accepting his answer. Looking above at the trail of messages and the timelines, I'm not sure he can read my replys. I'm also unclear as to why other Experts haven't stepped in.... Should I write off the $ 28.00 ???? I'm really not trying to get something for nothing, I'm just looking for a clear direction to make my repair that makes sense.

Posted by ALL Around Tech 53 days and 4 hours ago.

Answer

Hello,

 

Let me see if I can also help you a little more.....

 

Make sure that the ground and all connections are clean and tight first as well....

 

Safety switch post/ lanyard/ DESS system

Engine start/stop switch verification;
Disconnect the Yellow/Red wire of the start/stop switch. Using an ohmmeter, connect test probes to the Yellow/Red wire and to ground. Measure resistance, it must be an open circuit (switch is normally open). Depress and hold switch, the ohmmeter should read close to "0" ohm.

Safety Lanyard Switch Verification;
If 2 short beeps are not heard when installing the safety lanyard, disconnect the switch wires.
Safety lanyard removed; connect the test probes to switch Black and Black/Yellow wires. It's an open circuit, there should be no continuity.
Connect one test probe to the White/Gray wire and the other test probe to the switch terminal. Measure resistance, it should be "0" ohm. Connect one test probe to the Black wire and the other test probe to the switch ring. Measure resistance, it must be close to "0" ohm.
Safety lanyard on switch; connect the probes to switch Black and Black /Yellow wires. Measure resistance, it must be "0" ohm.

Timer Verification;
The timer is integrated into the MPEM. Always confirm that the fuses are in good condition. To confirm operation of timer, remove the safety lanyard from switch. After 5 seconds delay, depress start/stop button once. The timer should stay on for 33 seconds (for example, the gauge(s) will be activated) and than turn off.

 

See what the above results in and let me know what you find!

 

This is a normal problem with Seadoos that can be corrected but we need to first find where the problem is.

 

Also what brand is the battery?

 

You no matter what still get the dash to turn on correct?

 

If you need futher assistance just let me know and I will be glad to help you.

 

Thanks,

Joe

50 days and 5 hours ago.

Reply

Thank you Joe, You are giving me the type of answer I'm looking for, to answer your display and battery questions.... The Battery I purchased at the end of last season at Parker Seadoo. It is the gel type and it was manufactured in Veitnam (this is what I was told)and it's been on the battery tender.... So it's not the best battery on the market. I did not have a tester along to test load, but will take one with me when I go. The dash is kinda funny.... when you insert the key, you may or may not get the beeps, the dash may or may not light up. But reinserting the key a couple times and the dash lights up and you get two cherps... I hit the start button and hear a faint cleck and the dash goes out. After a min. or so put the key back in and the dash lights up with the word SEA DOO only, no cherps. I have cleaned the key terminal and I have both keys and they react the same.... Everthing points to the battery except that I pulled it, put it on a metered charger it went to 3 amps, after 10 min. dropped to 2 amps. I charged it over night and it fell to taking zero amps. I cleaned the termanals and wire end connectors. I pulled ALL fuses twice and did a visual not an ohm test. To make matters worst It started and ran perfect the day before and an hour before this problem. It normally starts right up, so I never have to crank on it very much. I live in L.A county and will drive out to Parker to do what I got to do, but just want to have enough tests or information to make the trip worth while, Steve

Accepted Answer

You can even take that battery to autozone and they will test it for free, the most important thing is that we make sure you have a good battery or all other tests are pointless to say the least.

 

If the battery is good then preform the tests I listed above as the key post may be bad I can say this sounds like either a wiring problem, loose wires/bad connections, a bad battery, or a bad key/lanyard post. There is also a faint chance of the mpem/ecm, check the connections there make sure they are clean, no corroided or loose pins or wires/connections.

 

Thanks,

Joe

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Expert: ALL Around Tech
Pos. Feedback: 97.8 %
Accepts: 
Answered: 10/5/2009

Marine Mechanic

ASE, electronics, Marine inboards and electronics, automotive drivability, all around repair tech,

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