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GM 5.0 SFI Have 66psi fuel at rail, have spark, new
ckp, new timing chain, won't start

Submitted: 62 days and 6 hours ago.
Category: Chevy
Value: $30
Status: AWAITING CUSTOMER ACTION
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Optional Information

Year : 1998
Make : Chevrolet
Model : Cheyenne C1500
Engine : 5.0 CSFI w A/C, Auto

Already Tried:
Engine died while driving at 60 mph, no noises, no codes,
no clues. New timing chain/gears,CKP, cap/rotor,wires
coil, ign module. Fuel pressure in 60-66 psi at rail before fuel meter body. Engine will crank over all day, spark coming out coil, have spark at #2 wire. Check TDC twice. Check factory connections on most sensors for voltage, and ground appropriately. 305,000 miles,

Posted by rmldaytona 62 days and 6 hours ago.

Info Request

Hello. What is the year, make, model? Is it 4X4?

 

What was the original reason all these parts were replaced in the first Place?

 

 

62 days and 6 hours ago.

Reply

305,000 miles on motor, C1500, commuter truck.

Posted by rmldaytona 62 days and 6 hours ago.

Info Request

Thanks.

Did you check spark on all the wires?

Is the security/theft light on the dash solid or flashing?

 

 

62 days and 5 hours ago.

Reply

Check spark at 1 no spark check #2 have spark , didn't check the rest.
As far as the sec. light it comes on during initial start {attempt} and goes off.

Posted by rmldaytona 62 days and 5 hours ago.

Answer

Wow!

 

The spar issue is concerning. I would check spark on all other cylinders and see which ones are firing.

 

If you have spark on one cylinder but not another, I would be suspicious of a distributor cap or distributor problems.

 

The caps are notorious for going bad or the rotors would burn through. But, you changed that. I have seen bad new parts so don't eliminate that yet.

 

First... Check for good spark. You are looking for 30KV. Meaning, spark should jump at least 3/4 of an inch and be blue in color. Not red or white. You can use a screwdriver with a wirre attached to the negative battery post. This will keep you from getting shocked. If weak spark from the coil, replace the coil.

 

If spark is good, recheck the cap and rotor. Replace as needed. If you have spark out of the cap on every cylinder but no spark on the end of the wire, well, bad wire(s).

 

Now, for the distributor... The metal ring on the top of the distributor can come loose and spin causing spark to not be properly distributed at the right times. You will end up with no spark out of the cap or spark out of the cap on certain cylinders. Position the #1 cylinder to TDC. Then, check that the rotor is pointing to the #1 cylinder on the cap. If not, check your distributor for slipped top rotor mounting cap, Broken shaft, broken gears, or even a broken cam. Also, excessive play in the distributor will cause a nostart.

 

Let me know what you find.

 

 

 

 

62 days and 5 hours ago.

Reply

new wires, new cap, new rotor, I checked spark I have spark on 3,7,2 and 4, not 1,5,6,or 8
conviently or not the inner pin of the cap are good as far spark. the metal ring under the
rotor only moves a 1/4 inch or so. Yes it lands on # 1.

Posted by rmldaytona 62 days and 4 hours ago.

Answer

Assuming you are testing for spark at the cap...

If not, recheck your firing order as shown in the diagram.

graphic
View Full Image

If ok...

I know this will be a little hard to believe, but you have a defective distributor cap. You have spark going into the cap but no spark going out.

 

Purchase a quality cap and rotor. I suggest AC Delco or Echlin. Install. Recheck your spark.

 

Defective distributor caps have plagued the auto repair industry for years when it comes to this applictaion.

 

Let me know how you come out.

 

 

 

 

62 days and 3 hours ago.

Reply

I have both echlin rotor and cap I exchanged both and retested still only 3,7,2,4 sparking,
mysteriously not the remaining four. 1,5,6,8 not firing. The ground location same on each
side for testing, as well. I justed returned from the partshouse thinking alike, retested, prior
to your reply. I use this truck for work, hopefully after spark everything else works.

Posted by rmldaytona 62 days and 3 hours ago.

Info Request

Now, let me ask you this. Spark at the coil...

 

Is spark coming out of the coil rythmic? Meaning, does it fire for each cylinder or does it seem like it skips cylinders? Basically, does spark come out of the coil for each cylinder?

 

 

 

 

62 days and 2 hours ago.

Reply

I just cranked it over for awhile it regular sparks seems to be consistent/slightly grouped
But big white sparks yes 3/4 plus gap off coil wire.

Posted by rmldaytona 62 days and 2 hours ago.

Info Request

Did you say white spark?

 

Good strong spark needs to be a blue color AT LEAST 3/4 inch long.

 

If you have white spark, you have weak spark.

 

What color is your spark line when 3/4 inch long?

 

 

62 days and 2 hours ago.

Reply

I guess it has a blue tint to it doing this work outside in the sun.

62 days and 2 hours ago.

Reply

I check output at the dist. cap prior to wire with same results, as well.

Posted by rmldaytona 62 days and 2 hours ago.

Answer

Wow, tough without seeing it. You can use your screwdriver with the wire attached to ground to see how far spark will arch from the coil tower.

 

At 3/4 of an inch it should be a bright blue color. as it gets longer, up to 1 1/2 inch it will get white/pink.

 

Best thing I can tell you is to check with a known good vehicle so you know what it looks like.

 

You might have a wak coil. The resistance in the cap/rotor filters out 1,5,6,8 dues to higher resistance.

 

You can always throw a coil at it and see what happens.

 

 

 

 

62 days and 1 hours ago.

Reply

I have a new coil, new ign module, new wires, new rotor x2, new cap x2, new ckp, etc...
new parts bad once in while, sure but hopefully not all mine. Much less from differ stores
and parthouses.

Posted by rmldaytona 62 days and 1 hours ago.

Info Request

Ok.

 

Lets hold on here a minute.

 

Start from scratch.

 

Back to my first answer.

 

Spark out of the coil. Good spark? Blue at least 3/4 inch. It will jump up to 1 1/2 inch but lose the blue color.

 

IF you have good spark into the cap, you should have good spark out of tha cap. If not, bad cap or rotor. Or bad distributor.

 

So... Lets check for proper spark first.

 

I have no doubt that you are losing patience with this. Time to clear your head and look at what you got.

 

So, review... You have good fuel pressure. Do you have good spark?

 

All an engine needs to run is fuel, air, and spark. In correct amounts and timing.

 

 

62 days and 1 hours ago.

Reply

So now what? does the camshaft sensor located under the rotor effect the firing?

Posted by rmldaytona 61 days and 7 hours ago.

Answer

OK.

 

I had a good discussion about this vehicle at work with my coworkers. All ASE certified.

Came to the conlusion that there needs to be something wrond with the distributor.

 

We agree that you should set the engine to #1 DTC. Remove the distributor and inspect it for broken teeth and make sure the set pin is not loose.

 

 

60 days and 23 hours ago.

Reply

I pulled the dist. out today marked everything. All the teeth look good, no excessive wear.
The pin is there no wobble. Not loose.

Posted by rmldaytona 60 days and 10 hours ago.

Info Request

The Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor is located within the distributor. The operation of the CMP sensor is very similar to the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor. The CMP sensor will provide one pulse per camshaft revolution (1x signal). This signal will not affect the driveability of the vehicle. The VCM utilizes this signal in conjunction with the crankshaft position in order to determine which cylinder(s) are misfiring

 

So, the cam sensor is not it.

 

Did you double check the rotor bor burn marks?

Is the spark into the cap looking as strong as out of the cap?

Back to the strength of the spark. Is it blue in color at 3/4 inch and is it pink/white at 1 1/2 inch?

 

 

 

 

59 days and 22 hours ago.

Reply

I reinstalled the dist back aligned to the T. The spark at night is blue and consistent 3/4".
Didn't try 1 1/2. How do you try spark inside cranking and still able to see it? Working
loong hours lately each day little different will respond asap. Thank you for the continued response[s].

Posted by GM Tech 59 days and 21 hours ago.

Info Request

Hello. I have been reading your post and I have one question, have you observed the rotor turning with the cap off?

59 days and 21 hours ago.

Reply

prior to reinstalling the distrisbor tonight, Yes I did check the rotor does spin.

Posted by GM Tech 59 days and 21 hours ago.

Answer

Ok, I have a few suggestions. First check the wiring and connections to the crank sensor. The terminals can become weak. Also check the wiring around the engine paying close attention to the area on the passengers front of the engine where the wiring runs down to the crank sensor. I have heard of many cases where the wiring is chaffed and grounding out on the Alternator bracket and the exhaust manifold.

Also check the wiring around the back of the engine at the top, same as the front.

59 days and 21 hours ago.

Reply

I have check voltage and ground to this connection as well as many more sensors and ground locations. I have replaced the ckp, cmp, coil, ign module w/ grease, cap x2,
rotor x2, wires, etc... Tried trigger signal at the module, present. I cranked the engine
earlier, while dark didn't see any spark jumping out. Unplugged coil wire with ign gap
testor I had consistent blue spark.

Posted by GM Tech 59 days and 21 hours ago.

Answer

Ok, check the wiring anyway. You may have power and ground, but is the signal wire shorting out? What shape is the reluctor on the crank shaft like? Things to check.

59 days and 21 hours ago.

Reply

I will check all those tomorrow after work, the reluctor ring look pretty clean when I changed the timing chain and gear set, as well. I even checked in the ckp hole to make sure the ring was in sight, It is centered to the hole.

59 days ago.

Reply

I looked at the wiring, it is all isolated, and looks fine.

Posted by GM Tech 59 days ago.

Info Request

OK, do you have access to a scan tool?

59 days ago.

Reply

to pull codes yes, nothing fancy.

Posted by GM Tech 58 days and 23 hours ago.

Info Request

Ok, can you borrow a scan tool then? You have a code reader.

58 days and 23 hours ago.

Reply

Don't know anyone with one to borrow.

Posted by GM Tech 58 days and 23 hours ago.

Answer

Ok. What I can't get past like the other expert is you have great spark out of the coil, but the spark is bad to the 4 cylinders. This suggests cap, rotor or the distributor itself.

58 days and 23 hours ago.

Reply

I agree fully I changed the cap and rotor now twice. I pulled the disturber it looked tight
and in descent shape the rotor didn't apear warp/bent. The pin was intacted, there was slight play due to the helical gears, but other then that????? At 305,000 miles the truck
ran fine prior. disturber, or factory cap/rotor?? Next?? If I can get a scan tool
what type, I'll ask around.?? What im I testing???

Posted by GM Tech 58 days and 22 hours ago.

Info Request

Is there a crack around one of the screws that holds the cap down?

How many caps and rotors have you tried? Have you tried with the cam sensor unplugged?

58 days and 21 hours ago.

Reply

I'm currently on cap/rotor # 2 Echlin THe cap has no cracks, w/ both screws installed.
I will try unplugging the cmp tomorrow, while trying for spark.

Posted by GM Tech 58 days and 21 hours ago.

Answer

Ok, I had another expert post the following as well and It really makes me wonder.

BB"I'm not sure if this will help, I'm sure you have already seen it. The firing order in collection to the miss. look at the lay out on the cap. It's hitting on 4 and 3, 7 and 2. Missing on 1 and 8, 6 and 5. All of this is right across from each other. Could it be he could have gotten all those caps and be defective? "

58 days and 21 hours ago.

Reply

OK well possibility YES hopefully not. Different stores each time.
But honestly do you think getting Dealer cap/rotor is any different, much less
it may fall under the a defective cap as well.

Posted by GM Tech 58 days and 21 hours ago.

Answer

THe dealer will be better quality but to get 2 defective really is rare.

 

I am also thinking that the cam sensor may be at fault. Normally it is there for misfire diagnosis, but there is a chance that a faulty sensor can do odd things. If we are sure about the cap and rotor, then try the sensor.

58 days and 21 hours ago.

Reply

I replaced it already., Along with the rest of the stuff.

57 days and 23 hours ago.

Reply

Today I started checking the wires and sensors for contunity and voltage.
I started to check the ign trigger signal, the voltage change at crank, etc,....
I pulled codes , being no SES light although. Came up with P0336 Crank Posi.
Sensor Range/performence soft code. Any info.. Or help. Thanks....
Yes it is new, to what that means nowdays???? I got a small amount of data from
freeze frame at the time of the code.
If I can find a scan tool what am I looking for...????

Answer

Ok, HERE is the code diagnosis. I think we may be looking at a VCM issue.

Picture
Expert: GM Tech
Pos. Feedback: 99.5 %
Accepts: 
Answered: 9/25/2009

Chevy Technician

GM Grand Master Technician 2007. 9 years Automotive experience, 7 years with GM. Just Answer Mentor

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