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2006 damon tuscany model 4074. The remote electronic switch will not open the lp gas control. therefore, the water heater will not work on gas, the refrig will not work on gas.

As a side problem the water heater will not work on electrical power either.

The light that should show that the lp gas is turned on will not light. The lighted switch for the electric water heater will not light. All 110 volt breakers have been reset. Cannot find a 12 volt fuse for the lp gas control.

How do I continueto locate the problems?

Submitted: 89 days and 21 hours ago.

Category: RV

Value: $15

Status: CLOSED

Posted by RANDALL 89 days and 21 hours ago.

Info Request

Hi: Thanks for coming to Just Answer with your question. I think I can assist you with this. I need some additional information first.
Do I understand that the gas valve out by the tank won't come on?
This valve is controlled by the Propane Gas Detector in your coach and just above the floor level. Check to see if it is on. The fuse for that is usually in the power center with the other fuses, but sometimes, it is right near the unit itself and you have to take the mounting screws out and put the detector out and check the fuse. It is usually a 3 amp blade fuse. Let's see if we can solve the gas problem and then tackle the water heater. Make sure the battery disconnect switch isn't off. I will wait to hear back from you. All the best, R.J.

89 days and 21 hours ago.

Reply

The propane dector is on, the green light is blinking and the alarm sounds. fuse checks good.

Posted by RANDALL 89 days and 20 hours ago.

Answer

Hi: It sounds like it either has to be in the solenoid for the shutoff valve or the tank valve. Do you have a VOM and know how to use it? On the W/H, did you check to see if the breaker was thrown?
Let's get the gas problem resolved and we will come back to the W/H.
All the best, R.J.

89 days and 20 hours ago.

Reply

If a VOM is a voltage / ohm meter I do have and can use. At a time in the past I was an electrical apprentice and understand electrical (basic) problems.

Yes -- The breaker for the water heater has been checked and reset.

Posted by RANDALL 89 days and 20 hours ago.

Answer

Great! Turn the detector off and pull the leads off the solenoid and take a reading to see if it is shorted out or has an open coil. That doesn't mean it couldn't be stuck. But, if you have the detector on, you can pull the leads and then re-connect them and you should hear the solenoid click. If you don't and there is 12 VDC to the leads, then you probably have the culprit. I will need the make and model of the W/H also. All the best, R.J.

89 days and 19 hours ago.

Reply

I cannot followup until Tuesday 08/25/89. Will the possible control value being bad or a bad coil will that keep the light indicating that the LP gas is turned on from buring???

Yes-- I do have 110 volts to the motorhome.

I will reply again tomorrow after I gain access to the gas controls inside a storage compartment and removing a panel.

The back side of the water heater for the electrical connections will require the removal of washer dryer panel.

Posted by RANDALL 89 days and 19 hours ago.

Answer

If you are referring to the ignition light on the W/H, the answer is no. The only time that would come into play is if there wasn't any 12 volt to both circuits and that would be unusual. Don't forget to get me the information on the make and model of the W/H. If it is a later model Atwood, the 12 VDC control board controls both the 120 AC heater AND the gas. If there is not any 12 volt to the board, it won't work on either. There is a fuse on the later model boards and they are located in the outside area up on the upper right hand corner. It is a 2 amp blade minifuse. I will wait to hear from you.
All the best, R.J.

89 days and 3 hours ago.

Reply

LP gas Problem: After gaining access there is 12 volts to the solenoid. I cannot hear any clicking when removing power. The switch will also disconnect power to the solenoid. IS IT A BAD SOLENOID????

WATER HEATER PROBLEM: Atwood Model #: GC10A-4E , Ser # 94021 447608 , Mfc Date : 03-23-06.

The fuse is good, the electronic ingition sparks on gas but will not work on electric power. The 110 volt breaker is not off. I do not know where to check for 110 volts on the front of the unit (outside). I hope that the unit will work on gas after repairing the LP Gas.

Posted by RANDALL 89 days and 3 hours ago.

Answer

Good morning. If the detector is on and when you put the wiring back on the solenoid, you should hear it click. If you don't, it is probabaly bad. You can also take your VOM and take a reading between the terminals when disconnected and see what the Ohm reading is. I am not at work, so I don't have those specs. It should give a definite click when power is applied. I think we discussed taking a reading for the voltage on the leads with the detector on. If no voltage, the detector may be faulty, even though it is giving you a flashing light. As for the W/H, take a reading at the element when you get to it. This is with the power on. Use care so you don't get shocked. If you have 120 VAC there, then it's the element. If you don't have power there, but do to the thermostat, then that is where the problem lies. These come as a set, the theromostat and the ECO and be sure you tell them they are for the 120 side as they are different for the gas side. They just clip in and are easy to change.
I will check on the specs for that Model when I get to work. I can't remember when they went to the new board that controls both the A/C and the gas. You can tell by looking at it as it has two sets of wires that plug into it. I mentioned this and about checking the fuse earlier. I'll get back to you when I get to work. All the best, R.J.

89 days and 3 hours ago.

Reply

Thanks for your advice. I will have to check the element & termostat by entering behind the washer - dryer. (kots of fun).

The control board has two (2) sets of wires. 1 plug has 6 wires, the other plug has 3 wires.

I will not remove the washer - dryer unit for access to rear of water heater until I hear from you again.

LP Gas : No clicking of the solenoid can be heard, detector & on/off switch will remove the 12 volt readings.

Posted by RANDALL 89 days and 3 hours ago.

Answer

You are doing great! I'd say the solenoid is bad. You do have the later style board which I was pretty sure you did. They went to a low voltage switching system to keep the shocks down I think. It is safer but harder to check. I still don't know if there is a board testor for this, at least I haven't found one yet. I am almost ready to go to the shop and will get back to you once I have checked into this further. For a short time, you can take the solenoid off and by pass it so you can get some gas working. Most dealers will have that part and I don't think it's that expensive. I'll be back with you shortly. All the best, R.J.

89 days and 3 hours ago.

Reply

Thanks.

I am on standby until you get to work.

Posted by RANDALL 89 days and 2 hours ago.

Answer

O.K. I'm back...the ohm reading on a new solenoid is about 11 ohms. I've never had one of these go bad. I have seen some on furnaces get stuck and need replacing. On your water heater. Pull off the smaller of the two plugs and there should be 12 volts between the orange wire which is the positive lead and the white which is the neutral with the switch on. The yellow is the outgoing feed to the rear of the unit that activates the 120 side. If you have 12 volts and the fuse is good, then put the plug back on and see if you have 12 volts in the yellow lead. If not, the board took a powder. I'd say the chances are better that this is the problem as the ECO and thermostat on the 120 side almost never give any problems and the element lasts a long time unless you turn on the heater when it is drained. That didn't happen here, I hope? Get back to me and let me know what you find. I don't want you to have to pull out the washer unless we are sure that is where the problem is. R.J.

Posted by RANDALL 89 days and 1 hours ago.

Answer

I took a new unit apart at the rear, as I've never had one of these go bad before, except the board. There is no thermostat and ECO on these for the 120 side. It must be controlled from the board. The yellow just energizes a relay that closes the circuit on the 120. If that relay were to go bad, you wouldn't have any 120 heat. If you have to go to the back of the W/H, you could bypass that and hook the black which is the power lead directly to the heating element. That is if the element has tested out o.k. Let me know what you find out. I should mention that the ohm reading on the gas shut off solenoid may vary depending on who made the valve. I suspect that more than one company is used as a source. Let me know what you find.
All the best, R.J.

Posted by RANDALL 89 days and 1 hours ago.

Answer

Hi, again....I think I gave you some incorrect info. They changed the wiring colors on this model. The white is the positive feed from the switch when you want 120 heat. You should test the voltage between the orange and the green. Do you have a manual for this that was included with your coach? It shows the wiring schematic inside.
Let me know what you find. Thanks, R.J.

89 days ago.

Reply

Upon removing the solenoid I tapped it a couple of times, tried adding voltage and the thing started clicking. I testing for gas thru the soleoid- good. I then reattached the pressure regulator and tested- good. I reconnected all gas lines and tested the refrig on the gas setting - it operates. I tested the furnace and it worked. I tested the water heater on gas and it worked. I pulled wires from quick connections and reattached and the electrical water heater works.

I now have the water heater heating on gas to see if the therostat will cut unit off.

This MH unit had set for 9 months and some of the things must have corroded and the solenoid may hav been stuck since the DC power had been put out of service.

However, 2 problems remain. The switch for electrical power to water heater is the type that lights up when turned on - the light will not burn even though the heater is working.

There is also a light that should burn when the LP gas switch is turned on - it does not burn.

Could these 2 bulbs be burned out but both of the switches turn off & on ?????

Accepted Answer

Great! Sitting is the worst thing for these appliances. I believe that the light you are referring to is the ignition light on the switch. It goes off once ignition has happened. I am not aware of one that stays on continuously. Glad you were able to get things running. As soon as you can, you should have the LP pressure checked to be sure it is correct. You should do this once a year. And the flue on the refer should be cleaned at that time. Let me know if I can be of further assistance. All the best, R.J.

Accepts:
Expert:	RANDALL
Pos. Feedback:	97.1 %
Answered:	8/25/2009

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The propane dector is on, the green light is blinking and the alarm sounds. fuse checks good.

Answer

Hi: It sounds like it either has to be in the solenoid for the shutoff valve or the tank valve. Do you have a VOM and know how to use it? On the W/H, did you check to see if the breaker was thrown? Let's get the gas problem resolved and we will come back to the W/H. All the best, R.J.

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If a VOM is a voltage / ohm meter I do have and can use. At a time in the past I was an electrical apprentice and understand electrical (basic) problems. Yes -- The breaker for the water heater has been checked and reset.

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Thanks. I am on standby until you get to work.

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Hi: It sounds like it either has to be in the solenoid for the shutoff valve or the tank valve. Do you have a VOM and know how to use it? On the W/H, did you check to see if the breaker was thrown?
Let's get the gas problem resolved and we will come back to the W/H.
All the best, R.J.

If a VOM is a voltage / ohm meter I do have and can use. At a time in the past I was an electrical apprentice and understand electrical (basic) problems.

Yes -- The breaker for the water heater has been checked and reset.

Thanks.

I am on standby until you get to work.