Hi XXXXXXX,

At the point when it won't restart, is the point when the testing needs to be done. First, check for a strong blue spark at the plugs when cranking the engine. If that's okay, then try some starting fluid in the throttle body to see if it tries to start. if it tries, then we have to test the pressure and volume of the pump. Once we discover what's missing when it won't start, that will guide us to a possible CRANK sensor, ignition module, fuel system malfunction etc.

Thanks for your question and positive feedback,

Ron

Okay, I didn't know anout the cutting out, just the cutting off, which does make a difference. The module would definately be on top of my list of testing with a heat gun while monitoring the ignition spark and pump voltage with a scope. That would be a conclusive test. BTDT!

Thanks again,

Ron

I totally understand what you are saying, and I can totally diagnose that just the way I mentioned with a heat gun on the module, FORCING it to break down for me the way it normally breaks down for you. Very easy and common test to do.

Thanks again for your support,

Ron

I'm talking about the ICM, Ignition Control Module. The heat gun is for the testing that needs to be done while it's running and the meters hooked up to it while heating up the module and watching the readings to confirm that it's bad. It already gets hot and stalls on you, now we need to get it to heppen for the mechanic. He has to STRESS TEST it if that makes more sense. And yes, I can still help you after you have "accepted" too.

Thanks again,

Ron

It's not me that's not understanding! You already discovered that your way hasn't worked with all the parts you tossed on it. I know the components that cause this WHEN THEY GET HOT, so they require testing while MAKING THEM HOT, such as DUPLICATING how you get it hot while driving it. Sorry that it all doesn't make sense to you, but what you do for a living may not make sense to me either. We're in the testing stages, one component at a time,

Ok, I'm very familiar with this system and I'm just letting you know that the distributor signals the CDI Box, that in turn signals the computer, tach on the same wire and the ignition coil is on another. If the Distributor is ok which i think it is because it wont break intermittently then the CDI box is the culprit. Also if you want to be absolutely sure then you are going to have to have the tach wire side of the ign circuits rewired because you have an itermittent short. Either the wiring between the CDI box and the DME and tach or the CDI box is whats causing your problem in all likeliness.