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Question

I need help with some pool repair anyone with that kind of answers? Some rust spots on the bottom are getting bigger would like to grind and patch not sure what products to use also intrested in resurfacing, not plaster again so need to know what sort of options are presently available and if it could be a diy project. Pool is 30 + years or so old.

Submitted: 134 days and 4 hours ago.
Category: Home Improvement
Value: $9
Status: CLOSED
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Posted by Stephen Cutler 134 days and 3 hours ago.

Answer

Hi and thanks for using JustAnswer.com
Those chlorine tablets contain sodium hypochlorite. I have experienced a rust colored stain on my pool wall comming from the skimmer shelf where I like to place them. Hard water would not concentrate in one location forming a rust spot. You can try sanding them with wetsanding paper. The amount of plaster removed will not require refinishing.
As for resurfacing alternates to replastering, epoxy is the only alternative I have heard of. I have worked with epoxies in many applications over the years. I do not recommend doing it yourself. It takes a crew performing multiple tasks all at the same time, and specialized equipment to apply the epoxy evenly. Epoxy, as a rule, is succeptable to breakdown by UV from sun exposure. A manufacturer of resins, which I use frequently, does produce a clear tabletop epoxy with an unkown additive to resist UV damage. I expect this additive must be used in the pool epoxy applications. It is definately something you want to discuss with your applicator and get something in writing that the coating is unaffected by UV.
I hope that this information was helpful to you. If it was please remember to click "ACCEPT" on your screen to make sure that I am paid for my efforts. By clicking ACCEPT you are not giving up your ability to ask more questions pertaining to this subject, and I will be happy to respond to these as well. Please take a moment and leave feedback, it is very important!

134 days and 2 hours ago.

Reply

I know that the rust is from the rebar under the pool rusting through the cement and plaster. I need to drill down grind down and coat the rebar with something then patch the hole I create. This is not a problem caused by clorine tabs. I sorta know what I need to do just don't know what products to use and where I would buy them. I did figure that I probably wouldn't resurface myself! Ha Ha!

Posted by Stephen Cutler 134 days and 1 hours ago.

Answer

The rebar would need to be subjected oxygen or an oxidizer like SodiumHypoChlorate. There would need to be a visable crack to let fresh and sufficient quantities to attack the iron. As the iron is oxidized it expands, fracturing the cement even further. Rust is a permissable coating on rebar, by code. This is because it's oxygen supply is cut off once it is embedded in concrete. In that state it can rust no further and will not explode. Once rust has begun, and has an oxygen supply, it can only be halted by removing the rust with phosphoric acid. So here's what to do. Dig a 2 foot square hole beside the pool. Did to the depth of the bottom. Place a sump pump in the hole and make sure the discharge is as far away from the pool as you can get it, and downhill of the pool. This will prevent the pool from popping out of the ground while empty. Next get a diamond masonry blade- 4 inch for a grinder will do. Cut the crack open as wide as you have to to get to the rusted rebar. Hammer the concrete away with a demolition hammer. Abrade the rusted rebar with a grinder and wire wheel. Coat the rebar with phosphoric acid- it is commonly sold as rust remover/preventer. Scrub the rebar. Wire brush again. Vacume all dust and debris. Undercut the top of the edges of your hole. Install 2 and 3 quarter inch tapcons at varying angles as pins to help hold the patch. The more the merrier. Vac the hole again. Wash the hole and vac out the water. Mix up some hydraulic cement and pack the hole, poking to remove any voids or air entrapment. Leave 1 quarter inch below the finished pool bottom to skim the patch with Marcite.
Unfortunately the rust will have traveled some distance, and it is unlikely that you will get all of it. But if you seal it such that it no longer has an oxygen source, it should remain stable and not explode any further.
I hope that this information was helpful to you. If it was please remember to click "ACCEPT" on your screen to make sure that I am paid for my efforts. By clicking ACCEPT you are not giving up your ability to ask more questions pertaining to this subject, and I will be happy to respond to these as well. Please take a moment and leave feedback, it is very important!

134 days and 1 hours ago.

Reply

I don't know. I don't think I have been explicit enough with my question. First, the 2 rust spots that have been increasing in size for a couple years now, are in the bottom of the pool but in the shallowest part of the pool. I don't have to drain the whole pool. There is cement surrounding the whole pool so in order to dig a hole I would first have to remove the cement. The pool slopes from 31/2 feet where the rust is and in a very flat area of the bottom, to 8 1/2 feet and holds over 30,000 gals. I think I could drain 1/3 of the water and reach the rust area fine. I don't understand how oxgyen could reach that rebar but that is abeside the point. Can I purchase the acid and hydraulic cement and marcite at any home improvement store?

Accepted Answer

HomeDepot carries hydraulic cement but calls it construction mortar. Read the back of the bag to make sure you have the right one. It will say it is a hydraulic cement. The rust remover should be at HomeDepot, and is generally carried by hardware stores. The marcite should be available at masonry supply yards. If not, here's a link to order from:
http://www.floridastucco.com/products.php?CategoryID=2&SubCategoryID=17

The link aslo has detailed instructions on working with marcite.
As for draining the pool- as long as your water table is below the bottom on the shallow end the pool will not pop.

I'm sure that this information was helpful to you. If it was please remember to click "ACCEPT" on your screen to make sure that I am paid for my efforts. By clicking ACCEPT you are not giving up your ability to ask more questions pertaining to this subject, and I will be happy to respond to these as well. Please take a moment and leave feedback, it is very important!

Edited by Stephen Cutler on 7/11/2009 at 1:07 PM

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Expert: Stephen Cutler
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Answered: 7/11/2009

General C&ontractor

35 years of troubleshooting construction, remodel, component & material failures. What to do next

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