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Carrier 58MXA
Thermostat on cool; fan on auto.
Outside unit is running and inside unit is cooling but not blowing air thru vents.
I checked the filter it was dirty not too dirty and replace with brand new filter. Retry. Same problem.
I turn off power and open access doors. Depress access panel limit switch and turn on power. The LED indicator light is continuous on - no blinking. 5Amp fuse is ok. I can feel the cold air in the unit. When I depress the access panel switch and unit starts, then I hear a short clicking sound. I disconnected the R wire and conducted a bypass test. I get a one short one long light - prior to it running the test. No prev error code.
Any tips? What should I do next? Is it possible the Capacitor is bad? I had a similar problem with an outdoor unit and the capacitor was bad. I checked the continuity of the capacitor with the two leads connected - hard to remove. Reads like 50 Ohms? disconnected the leads and tested no reading at all. Ideas? Thanks

Submitted: 165 days and 18 hours ago.

Category: HVAC

Value: $9

Status: CLOSED

Posted by Billy 165 days and 16 hours ago.

Info Request

Hello, Does the fan work on heat function?

165 days and 16 hours ago.

Reply

No. The fan "ON" on heat or cool did not work. I turned to heat mode on for a few minutes and smelled the heat/burn but the fan did not come on.

Posted by Billy 165 days and 16 hours ago.

Info Request

Have you checked the cool tap that the black wire from the motor goes to for 120v?

It sounds more like a motor. When the motor is calling...does it feel stiff and resistant or free spins?

165 days and 16 hours ago.

Reply

I have not checked that wire. This is the small fist sized motor? When I ran the by pass test this motor did spin fine - didnt hear any noises.

Posted by Billy 165 days and 15 hours ago.

Info Request

Ok, if the motor spun freely it is usually a sign of capacitor. If it feel stiff it is usually motor. you mentioned fist sized....are you referring to the inducer motor in the upper section? Or the circ blower in the botton?

165 days and 15 hours ago.

Reply

I'm refering to the upper section - inducer motor spinning. I dont recall if the circ blower ever turned on during that by pass test. Should it have? I'm not at home now so I'm doing this from memory last night. I seem to recall a bunch of clicking during that test. Sorry if this frustrates you.

Accepted Answer

This does not frustrate me at all, My goals is to try to have you not get frustrated with me. It is not always easy troubleshooting via internet. I think you will be need ing the capacitor first, and if that does not work the motor.

Billy

Accepts:
Expert:	Billy
Pos. Feedback:	99.7 %
Answered:	6/8/2009

HVAC Mechanic

State Licensed Mechanical Contractor, Heating, Cooling, Oil Burners, Heat Pumps, Boilers, Geothermal

165 days and 14 hours ago.

Reply

Just in case I ordered a Capacitor last night for $10. Any chance from the descriptions/symptoms it could be a bad thermostat upstairs. Should I go buy one and try it or wait? I hear the clicking sending of signals when I switch to cool or fan on. So I assume the thermostat is working. Is there a measurement I can take to confirm? Should I see 24v on the blk wire going to blower speed select? Should the heat (blue) wire be 0v when the system is set to cool and 24v when I turn thermo to heat? Thanks.

Posted by Billy 165 days and 14 hours ago.

Info Request

From the circuit board in the furnace...where the thermostat wires attach. If you jump R to G it activates a blower relay which has output on "cool" tap of 120v. That is why I recommended testing for 120v at that terminal. It will tell us if the relay is making or not.....

Posted by Billy 165 days and 13 hours ago.

Info Request

Let me know if you need further assistance.

Billy

164 days and 13 hours ago.

Reply

billy, i tried jumpering the r to g and nothing. I also tried to measure voltage on R or G and didnt find anything? If RED LED is on doesnt that mean there is 24V present? If thermostat is ON cool shouldnt there be voltage on these lines?

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Question

Info Request

<p>Hello,</p><p> </p><p>Does the fan work on heat function?</p>

Reply

No. The fan "ON" on heat or cool did not work. I turned to heat mode on for a few minutes and smelled the heat/burn but the fan did not come on.

Info Request

Have you checked the cool tap that the black wire from the motor goes to for 120v?

It sounds more like a motor. When the motor is calling...does it feel stiff and resistant or free spins?

Reply

I have not checked that wire. This is the small fist sized motor? When I ran the by pass test this motor did spin fine - didnt hear any noises.

Info Request

<p>Ok, if the motor spun freely it is usually a sign of capacitor. If it feel stiff it is usually motor.</p><p> </p><p>you mentioned fist sized....are you referring to the inducer motor in the upper section?</p><p> </p><p>Or the circ blower in the botton?</p>

Reply

I'm refering to the upper section - inducer motor spinning. I dont recall if the circ blower ever turned on during that by pass test. Should it have? I'm not at home now so I'm doing this from memory last night. I seem to recall a bunch of clicking during that test. Sorry if this frustrates you.

Accepted Answer

This does not frustrate me at all, My goals is to try to have you not get frustrated with me. It is not always easy troubleshooting via internet. I think you will be need ing the capacitor first, and if that does not work the motor.

Billy

Reply

Info Request

Info Request

Let me know if you need further assistance.

Billy

Reply

billy, i tried jumpering the r to g and nothing. I also tried to measure voltage on R or G and didnt find anything? If RED LED is on doesnt that mean there is 24V present? If thermostat is ON cool shouldnt there be voltage on these lines?

HVAC

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Question

Info Request

<p>Hello,</p><p> </p><p>Does the fan work on heat function?</p>

Reply

No. The fan "ON" on heat or cool did not work. I turned to heat mode on for a few minutes and smelled the heat/burn but the fan did not come on.

Info Request

Have you checked the cool tap that the black wire from the motor goes to for 120v? It sounds more like a motor. When the motor is calling...does it feel stiff and resistant or free spins?

Reply

I have not checked that wire. This is the small fist sized motor? When I ran the by pass test this motor did spin fine - didnt hear any noises.

Info Request

<p>Ok, if the motor spun freely it is usually a sign of capacitor. If it feel stiff it is usually motor.</p><p> </p><p>you mentioned fist sized....are you referring to the inducer motor in the upper section?</p><p> </p><p>Or the circ blower in the botton?</p>

Reply

I'm refering to the upper section - inducer motor spinning. I dont recall if the circ blower ever turned on during that by pass test. Should it have? I'm not at home now so I'm doing this from memory last night. I seem to recall a bunch of clicking during that test. Sorry if this frustrates you.

Accepted Answer

This does not frustrate me at all, My goals is to try to have you not get frustrated with me. It is not always easy troubleshooting via internet. I think you will be need ing the capacitor first, and if that does not work the motor. Billy

Reply

Info Request

Info Request

Let me know if you need further assistance. Billy

Reply

billy, i tried jumpering the r to g and nothing. I also tried to measure voltage on R or G and didnt find anything? If RED LED is on doesnt that mean there is 24V present? If thermostat is ON cool shouldnt there be voltage on these lines?

Related HVAC Questions

Have you checked the cool tap that the black wire from the motor goes to for 120v?

It sounds more like a motor. When the motor is calling...does it feel stiff and resistant or free spins?

This does not frustrate me at all, My goals is to try to have you not get frustrated with me. It is not always easy troubleshooting via internet. I think you will be need ing the capacitor first, and if that does not work the motor.

Billy

Let me know if you need further assistance.

Billy