Hello I will help you with your question,
Your problem may be in the start relay, Start by swapping the relay with another from the same panel and see if the issue continues. I believe the radiator fan relay is the same as your start relay but be aware that the issue is that the relay may not be working when it needs to so the radiator fan may not come on when it needs to if you have the start relay in its place. WATCH ENGINE TEMPERATURE!
Let me know if this helps, if it does not I can help you narrow it down with some testing
Thank you
Ok then it will take some testing to determine at what point the start signal is missing.
Lets be clear, this is a no CRANK not a no start right?
Do you have a testlight or voltmeter to check for power and ground to the start relay?
Is there an aftermarket alarm installed?
Test the meter on the battery, put the switch on DCV or V with a straight line over it. Test the battery and you should get 12.6 volts or close to that. Once you get the hang of using the meter to measure voltage pull the start relay and turn the key to start (use a helper) measure from the battery negative post to all the relay contacts in the fuse block and let me know what they are. There is one blade on the relay that is turned sideways from all the others if I recall, lets call that #1. Directly across from that is #2. On either side is #3 to the left if you are holding it with the blades pointing up at you and the oddball blade closest to you and #4 is on the right.
Switch the meter lead from the negative post to the positive post and measure again with the key turned.
Post the results and I can tell you where to go from there
Ok running neg. from the battery and pos., to the plugins .looking from the front of the car straight at it. the top left is 12.36 the bottom left is 12.36 the top right is .003 the bottom right is .015.
then running the positive from the battery and the neg to the plugin is top left .065 bottom left is .065 top right is .018 and bottom right is 12.39
I see that you have a different style of relay that has two large contact blades with two smaller ones. Could you translate the readings using this diagram #M46 and let me know which is which as I don't have a Snotta to look at right now.
I am leaving for home so I will be offline for the next twenty minutes
the first diagram you gave me was correct.
all four blades are the same size on my car.
I dont have one to look at so I need to know if there are any markings on your relay. I am expecting the blades to be numbered 30, 87, 85 and 86. I don't know the orientation of the relay in the panel so I need a starting point so I can see which pins have power and which are ground. Can you look at the relay to see if there is a diagram printed on the side or if the pins have numbers next to them and which readings go with which pins
if i read them from top to bottom
30 86
85 87
it has a small BG to the bottom right of the 30 and has a 87c of some letter its small dead center of all of them
The only thing you are missing is the ground for the coil of the relay, you can try measuring pin #85 with the key on but not in the start position, you should not have power. If I read correctly you had power to this pin when you were in the start position.
If you have power to pin #85 when cranking but noit in the ON position the ground at pin # 86 is missing and this is hard wired so there is a break in the wiring for the ground on pin #86.
Pin # 30 should have power at all times and if you jump a wire to pin # 87 the starter should crank.
Let me know if i an deciphering all this correctly with what you measure.
If I am Incorrect let me know and I will find out where I went wrong with the information
If I am correct the black wire in connector A pin # 2 on the back of the junction block will have to be checked for an open to ground
Let me know
If you do not crank when you jump from 30 to 87 there is an open in the wire between the relay and the starter. Verify power at 30, jump across to 87 and check for voltage at the small wire on the starter. If you do not have power to the small wire there is an open between the relay and the starter. If you do have power at the small wire check the battery cables for any corrosion. You should see full battery voltage from the large terminal at the starter to the case of the starter. If you do have power to the small wire at the starter and power to the large terminal you will have to replace the starter.
Let me know what you find
ASE Master Technician
ASE Master Tech 10+ yrs, AAS Automotive Technology, Factory trained Asian specialist
I will be on and off all day tomorrow so I will look for your post when you can make it.
It sounds like you will find the problem between the relay and the starter. Check the connector at the back of the junction box and for any rodent damage, the wiring gets brittle so any break may be hidden in the wire loom and you will have to open it up to find the damage.
OK I will watch for your post, thank you for letting me know