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Question

DOES A SUN JEY PARROT HAVE A CHEWING REPUTATION? CAN THEY BE MIXED IN CAGES WITH OTHER BIRDS? SIZE CAGE SHOULD THEY BE IN? IS A FLIGHT CAGE OK?

Submitted: 210 days and 2 hours ago.
Category: Bird
Value: $9
Status: CLOSED
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Optional Information

Age: <1; Breed: SUN JEY PARROT

Already Tried:
I AM WAITING TO GET THE BIRD. ITS STILL WEANING.

Posted by S. August Abbott, CAS 209 days and 13 hours ago.

Answer


I'm not sure about the type of bird a "sun jey" is, perhaps a type of conure, like a sun conure?

In any case, a parrot is a parrot when it comes to the chewing. Yes, they all chew. Little birds chew little things, bigger birds like macaws can chew holes straight through a house.

One interesting comment from a researcher who regularly follows and documents rainforest residents was that he always knew where the birds were by carefully examining the ground. I thought he would say he found nearly whole fruits discarded there since parrots are known for taking a bite and then tossing the rest, but no, those pieces of fruits are relatively quickly scooped up by other animals waiting for the parrots to drop them.

What the researcher looks for on the ground is shredded wood and leaves. When he looks up - sure enough, more times than not he'll find a parrot up there.

It's what they do.

So yes, no matter what kind of parrot you're getting, by nature it will be a chewer.

Be sure to provide appropriate sized 'toys' that are safe to shred. While hard plastic and manzanita wood last a long time, the bird can't actually do any damage to it and it doesn't help them meet their shredding needs.

The constant chewing is how they keep their mind occupied, their beaks in shape and even exercises their powerful jaw muscles (no matter how big or small the bird).

You can find some suggestions for making your own toys - and a lot more about overall care and needs here: 4AnimalCare


When it comes to cages - a too big cage can be overwhelming - a too small cage can lead to behavioral problems, so finding the biggest cage made for the specific bird is really best.


If you want to keep a bird bonded to you, it's best to house them in their own cage rather than with other birds. All of my in house rescues have their own private cages and are not allowed to touch each other when they're out and interacting with humans. They keep each other company with mimicking and singing to each other, they even entertain each other with their showing off, but by not sharing a cage or interacting physically with each other they are much more apt to remain bonded to people and thus more easily handled.



Congratulations on your upcoming new addition!

209 days and 11 hours ago.

Reply

ITS A HYBRID CONURE. A MIX OF SUN CONURE AND A JEN DEY..ACTUALLY I WAS SAYING ITS NAME WRONG..ITS A SUNDEY CONURE..WHAT ABOUT PARROTLETS? ARE THEY CHEWERS? MINE ARE IN A METAL CAGE FOR NOW, BUT WITH THE NEW ADDITION COMING THEY WILL BE GETTING A NEW CAGE MADE OUT OF BAMBOO GRASS. ITS A NEW MODEL THAT IS GEARED TO BEING CLEANER AND LESS TO CLEAN WHEN THAT NEEDS TO BE DONE..ACTUALLY ITS A FLIGHT CAGE AND I WAS TOLD IT WAS PERFECT FOR PARROTLETS, BUT NOT BIG ENOUGH FOR A CONURE. WHATS YOUR OPINION?

Posted by S. August Abbott, CAS 209 days and 9 hours ago.

Answer

OK, thanks for the clarification, now I know exactly what you mean. One of my regular clients is a Sun - and he has a remarkable personality. I've noticed much less chewing with these birds and a lot more 'stealing'. You cannot wear earrings or small things in your hair around these birds, nor let anyone in the room with small, shiny objects on them.

You don't even feel it as they adeptly remove these things and go running off or flying off with it. The danger is if they swallow it. Many of these little objects are made of metals that are toxic to birds.

When it comes to chewing, they'll take the opportunity if they have it. If they're on a windowsill for example, they might sit and be well behaved for a while, but eventually they'll start chewing on the wood there (some sooner than others). Each bird has its own personality of course.

All psittacines - that is most birds with a hooked bill - whether a parakeet, budgie, conure, parrotlet, all the way up to the big macaws are going to chew. It's their "job" in life.

The smaller ones like yours would require smaller and softer pieces of wood. Many enjoy paper based toys to shred.

When it comes to a cage, for a single conure sized bird I'd like to see at least 3' wide x3'deep x4' tall


I commend you for doing your research first like this. I wish all new parrot parents were this responsible. I'll be glad to work with you as much as you need

209 days and 8 hours ago.

Reply

I HAVE A LARGER CAGE THE SIZE YOU HAVE MENTIONED THAT I AM USING FOR THE SUNDEY..I AM SWAPPING THE CAGE MY PARROTLETS ARE IN NOW WITH MY TIEL AND THE NEW CAGE IS FOR THE PARROTLETS.. I HAVE HAD MY BIRD BABIES FOR A LONG TIME AND ENJOY THEM IMMENSELY, BUT UNFORTUNATELY I AM UNABLE TO HANDLE THEM. MY PARAKEETS ARE ADOPTED FROM THE HUMANE SOCIETY, AND WERE NEVER HANDLED, JUST LOOKED AT AND MY PARROTLETS WERE ALSO HARDLY HANDLED. THEY ARE A BIRTHDAY PRESENT FROM MY SON. AND MY TIEL, WAS A RESCUE BIRD AND HE LETS ME PUT MY HAND IN HIS CAGE,AND SOMETIMES EVEN RUB HIS HEAD, BUT THEN HE LETS ME KNOW BACK OFF IN NO UNCERTAIN TERMS THAT EVEN I UNDERSTAND..THANKS FOR YOUR HELP. THIS IS A VERY UNIQUE CAGE AND IT LOOKS MORE LIKE A PIECE OF FURNITURE THAN A CAGE. THAT WAS WHY I AM TRYING IT. MAYBE THEY WILL BEHAVE, I HAVE NEVER SEEM THEM SHOW SIGNS OF CHEWING BUT FIGURE THEY MUST AT LEAST SOME OF THE TIME..



NAY

Accepted Answer

I'm glad you've got these birds - especially since you've rescued so many too.

The new cage sounds interesting - be sure to include chewable options like wood toys so they don't go for the bars or perches.

Any bird that is housed alone and not sharing a cage with another bird has the potential of being able to handle, no matter how old they are. Of course "potential" doesn't mean it's a sure thing.


Approach the cage when the bird is calm. Be slow, keep your movements smooth and don’t raise your hands above your own shoulder level – or above the eye level of the bird. Speak with a soft voice and give the bird time to calm down and accept your presence. If it doesn’t adjust relatively quickly, back away until it calms down – the last thing we want is for the bird to injure itself by flailing around in fear.


Remember, patience.


I approach our new additions (usually abused birds entering rescue/rehab) an hour or so after tucking them in for nighttime. Their cages are covered on all sides, leaving just ½ of the front uncovered so they can see out and feel secure. It also insures decent air circulation.


The room light would be very dim, but not totally dark. Most birds have poor night vision, unless they’re nocturnal birds like owls and approaching them in total darkness is frightening to them.


At this time, whispering, putting a hand up against the cage and just holding it there is a start. Remember, keep it non-threatening and below their eye level.


When you notice them calmly stretching a wing and leg slowly out to the side and back, mimic the action with your own arm slowly stretching out to the side and softly stay engaged vocally (“what a good bird you are”, “that’s a pretty bird”, etc).


After just a few minutes of nice interaction, leave them be for their night and the next day use the same tone of voice and slow, calm movements around them.



Open the cage door (as long as your bird is not panicking and will be safe if they escape, unable to get to places you cannot recover them from) and offer your finger/hand just above the feet and gently touching at the breast area there say “step up”. This command is important to use every time so that when the bird hears it they know it’s time to be on hand/finger.



In an untamed bird there may be some biting and squawking, but if you can tolerate it until they are on hand, you’ve accomplished a very important step. Once up they usually stop biting where they’re perching (your hand) and if they don’t, giving them an “earthquake” a gentle shaking of your hand, but not enough to dislodge them or cause them to feel insecure, will often distract them.


I’ve also found that walking quickly into a different room (which isn’t hard to do with a big macaw chomping down on my arm like a pitbull) will surprise them enough to stop. Suddenly, in new surroundings, I’m their best friend.



If you cannot get your bird to cooperate right away with hands, remember, you’ve got years ahead of you – it’s worth it to do this right. Try just placing your hand in the cage for a minute and letting them get used to it being there. Having a treat in hand will help make your fingers a positive thing.


Continue the night whispering and no matter what, don’t give up.



Find out more steps to take by seeing www.4AnimalCare.org/birds

The National Cockatiel Society has even more tips for taming (this is good for any bird, not just cockatiels)


http://www.cockatiels.org/articles/behavior/training.html





You're doing very well!


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Expert: S. August Abbott, CAS
Pos. Feedback: 99.6 %
Accepts: 
Answered: 4/27/2009

Certified Avian Specialist

Cert. Avian Specialist; Int. Assoc.Animal Behavior Consult; Pet Ind. Joint Advisory Council; author

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