Thanks.
Look in the grille area or just below the grille for a small black plastic sensor that's either dragging in the street or still attached to its mount. The sensor is often broken off by driving in deep snow (hitting drifts and such) or common road debris.
If it's still mounted, you'll find it just below the license plate... it's the two wire unit, the only thing in the area.
One wire is a ground (sensor ground), the other is a 5v pullup voltage output by the engine controller. Start by checking for physical damage to the wires and sensor, then let me know if we need to do electrical testing on the circuit. You'll need a digital voltmeter for that.
Talk later,
Ed
No thats not it so now what
Do you have a voltmeter, Gene? We need to verify whether the charging system is working or not.
If you don't have a meter handy, compare brightness of the dome or headlamps between key on and then with the engine running... there should be a brightening of the lamps while running.
Then let's do a cluster test.
With the key off, push and hold the trip odometer reset button and then roll the key on. Hold the button until things start to light up, then release. You'll see code display in the odometer window eventually either before or after all the gauges and bulbs do a self test. Let me know what it comes up with.
I'm assuming for the moment that you haven NOT had a CHECK ENGINE lamp illumination. Is that right?
Talk shortly,
Thanks... sorry, I was barking up the wrong tree.
I have a couple quick checks for you. Grab a screwdriver (or something metal attracted to magnetism) and touch the alternator pulley with the engine running. If the screwdriver is attracted to the pulley, we can safely assume there's field control.
If you do have magnetism, check the voltage on your output stud on the back of the alternator while it's running. If you have an open circuit between the alternator and the battery, this test will show a LOT more than 12v... more like 30.
No magnetism?
Wiggle the 2-wire plug on the back of the alternator while monitoring alternator operation. No change?
The two wires are basically power and ground. The dark green/ orange wire is your power supply to the field and the other (green) wire is the grounding circuit for regulation.
Test for 12v at the green/ orange wire with the engine running first.
Check for voltage at the green wire and let me know what you find.
Talk in a few,
ASE Certified Technician
28-year Dodge/ Chrysler exp., ASE Master with L1 certification. Driveability/ combustion specialist