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Question

97 suzuki side kick 1.6L engine. Did run. will fire then flood out. I just bought this. It was sitting for few months before I bought it. I got it started drove it a couple of miles home and parked it. now when I go to start it it will fire a few times then it will stop firing. I tried ether again. It did not help it just made it worse. I checked plugs and they are wet. I then tried WOT and 5% throttle. both did nothing. I took plugs out cleaned them and again the same.

Submitted: 293 days and 15 hours ago.
Category: Car
Value: $15
Status: AWAITING CUSTOMER ACTION
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Optional Information

1997 Suzuki sidekick 4x4 1.6L

Already Tried:
Plug wires, spark plugs, cap, rotor, WOT

Posted by AMEDEE 293 days and 14 hours ago.

Answer

Greetings!

When your car is cranking over and is not starting, We will have to pinpoint what the engine is missing.


Spark


Fuel


Compression



All three of these are tested when the engine is being cranked over. There are two way of checking for fuel. Fuel pressure and fuel trigger. Both are very important and must be present for the engine to start. Fuel pressure is self explanatory. You just hook up the gage and see what the reading is. Fuel trigger is check with a noid light. The injector gets unplugged and the noid light gets plugged in to the injector clip. With the engine cranking over, this light must blink. This is the signal to the injectors from the computer. You can have all the fuel pressure in the world, but it wont matter if the injector is not pulsing gas into the cylinder like it should! Compression tester, spark tester, fuel pressure gage and noid light are all accessible at your local auto store. All three tests play a very important part in diagnosing a no start condition. Be extremely careful when doing these tests.

Posted by AMEDEE 293 days and 9 hours ago.

Info Request

Hello there!

 

WHat have we found?

293 days and 7 hours ago.

Reply

I checked the compression (140)and the spark. I checked the spark at the disributor at the end of the wire and at each plug. I also checked the spark gap. I did not get a chance to check the fuel pressure, however it has fuel. THis seems to be the problem. too much. The plugs are wet when I remove them. Also, I'm not sure where to connect the fuel pressure gage. The engine compression was slightly low, however with all the cranking and the extra gas in the cylinders, I have no doubt that It will be somwhat lowered due to the cylinders being wet with gas when I checked them.

Posted by AMEDEE 292 days and 19 hours ago.

Answer

If in fact it is getting too much fuel, it could be one of two things.

Either the coolant temp sensor is bad causing the computer to give way to much fuel to the cylinders through the injectors upon start up. Or gas is leaking past one or more of the injectors into the cylinders. This could be caused by a few things. But we would need to verify this. TO do this, we need to check fuel pressure. WIth the fuel pressure gage hooked up, we need to turn the key on the prime fuel system. Watch the fuel gage and make sure the fuel pressure does not leak down. If it does, something is leaking.

Also, for grins, be sure to check the fuel pressure regulator. It is located on the fuel rail. It is round, about a quarter size and has a vacuum line going to it. If the regulator is leaking gas than it can cause this problem. Pull off the vacuum line that goes to the regulator. Be absolutely sure there is no gas in the vacuum line. If there is, the diaphragm has ruptured and there is gas entering the engine that is not accounted for and the regulator will need to be replaced!

291 days and 22 hours ago.

Reply

I checked the Regualtor. It is Fine. The fuel pressure is holding at 49 psi. I did not check to se if it is actually holding. How long should it hold pressure?

Posted by AMEDEE 291 days and 19 hours ago.

Answer

SOrry for the delay!

The fuel pressure should hold for several hours. If it leaks down within 10 minutes or less, something is leaking.

If it is leaking down, and the regulator is not leaking, then the only thing it could be is the fuel pump or the injectors.

If fuel pressure is not leaking down and the motor is in fact getting way to much fuel on start up, then we need to look at the computer inputs like coolant temp sensor, map or mass air flow sensor and tps sensor.

Let me know!

291 days and 8 hours ago.

Reply

<p>After 15 min the fuel pressure droped by 2psi. There is no leaking at regulator. How do I start to check the motor inputs? Which coolant sensor? I believe most cars have two maybe 3? How do I check it?</p><p>thanks</p>

Posted by AMEDEE 291 days and 7 hours ago.

Answer

Located at the side of intake manifold, this sensor measures the temperature of the engine coolant and converts its change into that in resistance through the thermistor.
By monitoring the resistance of the coolant temperature sensor, ECM detects the engine coolant temperature and that affects most systems under the control of ECM.

 

 

 

Here are the specs.

 

177 ohms at 212 deg F
241 ohms at 194 deg F
332 ohms at 176 deg F
467 ohms at 158 deg F
667 ohms at 140 deg F
973 ohms at 122 deg F
1459 ohms at 104 deg F
2238 ohms at 86 deg F
3520 ohms at 68 deg F
5670 ohms at 50 deg F
9420 ohms at 32 deg F
16180 ohms at -14 deg F
28680 ohms at -4 deg F
52700 ohms at -22 deg F
100700 ohms at -40 deg F

290 days and 8 hours ago.

Reply

Ok, I checked two of them. One with one wire and one with two. both went into the intake manifold near the water intake, (thermostat). the one wire was as follows.
907 ohms= 110 degrees
1050 ohms= 76 degrees
1363 hms= 60 degrees
1600 ohms= 35 degrees
4k ohms= 15 degrees

two wire
1843 ohms= 110 degrees
2450 ohms= 76 degrees
3340 ohms= 35 degrees
6k ohms= 15 degrees

both are off, but the response is the same. They are actually low in resistance for a given temp. THe oppisite of what I would expect. I would think they would be extreamly high in resistanc telling the motor that the engine is colder than it is, in riching the mixture. if anything they should be leaning it out. I'm guessing they are working ok.

Answer

WOW!

 

According to what I have for the specifications, they are both off!

 

at 0°C (32°F) 5.21 - 6.37 k Ohms

20°C (68°F) 2.21 - 2.69 k Ohms

40°C (104°F) 1.14 k Ohms

60°C (140°F) 0.58 k Ohms

80°C (176°F) 0.29 - 0.35 k Ohms



Edited by AMEDEE on 2/8/2009 at 9:22 PM

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Expert: AMEDEE
Pos. Feedback: 97.8 %
Accepts: 
Answered: 2/8/2009

ASE MASTER TECH

ADVANCED LEVEL SPECIALIST

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