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I was driving my 1997 740iL with 99k miles yesterday when I pulled up to a stoplight. The engine seemed to stutter (about two mild engine revs) and then died. The check engine light came on. I quickly threw it in park, shut it off, and restarted the engine and it turned over just fine.

About 5 minutes prior to this, I seemed to experience some power loss, although the engine did not die. I would hit the accelerator without any speed being generated. I was too bewildered by the feeling of pressing on the pedal with no power being generated to notice what it was doing RPMs-wise.

I''m going to take it in for service, but I''d like to understand what sort of problem I may be looking at before I do. I''ll be happy to expand on the information provided here if necessary.

Thanks so much!


ADDED: During a previous idle I noticed that the car was trembling somewhat, and I felt more vibrations than usual while driving.

Furthermore, it was quite a hot day, around 95 degrees in Denver, CO.

Edited by XXXXXXXXXXX on 7/31/2008 at 8:36 PM

Submitted: 479 days and 10 hours ago.
Category: BMW
Value: $20
Status: AWAITING CUSTOMER ACTION
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Optional Information

Optional Information:
1997 BMW 740iL V8

Already Tried:
Checked oil. Waiting for engine to cool to check coolant level.

Posted by RButcher 479 days and 10 hours ago.

Info Request

Hello,
Is the check engine lite on now since the car died? What is the condition of the intake boot ( the plastic tube connecting the air filter to the intake manifold), is it torn on the bottom side?

479 days and 10 hours ago.

Reply

I will run down and check on that and reply within 10 minutes. Thanks for taking on my question!

479 days and 9 hours ago.

Reply

Okay, just looked under the hood again. As far as I can tell, there is no damage to any of the intake boot.

The check engine light is not on, but the service reminder system is showing one yellow and one red light, and says "Inspection" underneath.

I can take and upload pictures if needed.

479 days and 9 hours ago.

Reply

Just to supplement this information further, the engine temperature remained right in the middle of the dial the whole time.

I was running A/C at the time.

The car had catastrophic radiator failure in 2005 and that system had to be replaced.

Posted by RButcher 479 days and 9 hours ago.

Info Request

The additional input does help but still need to know about the other questions.

479 days and 9 hours ago.

Reply

I believe I have already answered you questions regarding the intake boot and the engine light. Do you need me to re-post them?

Posted by RButcher 479 days and 8 hours ago.

Info Request

Sorry about that my brouse popped me down below your third post and I missed your second post. If you have access to a code reader that would help out alot, but a common problem is the camshaft sensor on the passenger side bank of the V-8(bank 1) but normally there is not a loss of power expereinced with this. Do you remember what the fuel level was like? How is the condition of the air filter?

479 days and 8 hours ago.

Reply

The fuel level was at 3/4 full.

I do not know the condition of the air filter, I would have to check that out.

What sort of problems would cause power loss?

In your opinion, is the vehicle in danger of becoming disabled on the road, or is it something that could usually be resolved by restarting the engine?

479 days and 7 hours ago.

Reply

The filter is in fine shape. I checked it for leaves or anything significant and there were none. It's used, but intact.

I also checked the coolant level and it appeared to be low, but I have a hard time understanding the diagram that explains where the red rod is supposed to be to indicate the proper level. Should it be at the very top rim, or some lower mark within the cylinder?

Thanks so much for your time.

Answer

No problem about the time, the coolant level should put the red rod when cold level with the opening of the coolant resevoir. Don't check the coolant level when hot, please you could be yourself real bad and fill the system with air because the coolant will boil with out the radiator cap the pressurize the system. Just to double check the you should be able to see some lite thru the air filter, if you can't its time for a new one. Loss of power can be caused by a plugged air filter, fuel filter, lack of fuel pressure, inaccurate MASS airflow meter, worn out spark plugs, weak coils, intake manifold leaks and exhaust restrictions. Did you have the engine detailed or drive thru a large puddle as water can get under the coil covers and the moisture can short your coils out temporarily. Most of the loss of power things will be a constant not intermittent. The torn intake boot will cause a problem on accel. because the engine torque will pull the engine away from the filter box and cause an air leak. The other option is the idle valve is carboned up and sticking, you can remove it and look inside the opening and if you see scratch marks and then twist it from side to side real quick and it doesn't slap back and forth inside it is probable jammed and causing your stalling and ruff idle due to low RPM(not enough air). Let me know what you find.

Expert: RButcher
Pos. Feedback: 100.0 %
Accepts: 
Answered: 8/1/2008

BMW Technician

BMW Factory Master Mechanic, 609 A/C Certification

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