This is a nice age for a lovey, you are obviously taking good care of your companion.
When a bird seems to be having seizures, falling off perches, showing symptoms of spasms, difficulty or inability to grasp or control their feet, it is frequently the result of hypocalcemia. Of course there are other conditions this could also be, but one of the more frequently seen is hypocalcemia.
If your companion has convinced you to feed him a predominantly seed diet over the years and most especially if he's getting sunflower seeds out of you, the chances are even greater that this is the problem.
Your vet (if not an avian vet) may not be aware that blood calcium levels are deceptive. They will often fall within the normal range (8.0 - 13.0 mg/dl), so an ionized calcium level needs to be done.
Treatment will vary, but usually include calcium supplementation of some form and full spectrum lighting exposure (Vitamin D is necessary to properly use the calcium intake in both our birds and in us).
You can offer your grey a regular spoon of cottage cheese, yogurt or even a Tums (I'd limit it to 1/2 tab every other day) and try to use nothing but all natural products/foods.
Calcium supplementation is helpful, but only if this is the problem to begin with. That's why a hands on vet exam is necessary in each and every case.
Other causations might be liver/kidney problems or tumors - and caught early they are far more successfully treated, as is the hypocalcemia.
More information about symptoms and causes here:
http://www.avianweb.com/seizures.html
If no cause is found after a thorough evaluation, the bird is said to have idiopathic epilepsy.Linda Pesek, DVM/Avian Board Certified is quoted: "A bird that seizures should have a thorough physical examination, radiographs, hematology and blood chemistry. A complete blood count will reveal whether anemia, inflammation or infection is present. Blood chemistries provide an indication of liver and kidney function and the electrolyte status of the patient. A radiograph may demonstrate the presence of metallic densities in the gastrointestinal tract. Although one cannot rule out the presence of lead or zinc toxicity if no metallic densities are present, finding them leads support to the possibility of heavy metal poisoning as the cause of the seizures. Definitive diagnosis is based upon the presence of toxic levels of lead and zinc in the blood."
Armed with this info to share with your vet, let's hope you can resolve this problem before it advances (depending on what it is, treatments are varied). Please keep me informed ok?
Certified Avian Specialist
Cert. Avian Specialist; Int. Assoc.Animal Behavior Consult; Pet Ind. Joint Advisory Council; author
He's a little con man isn't he?
Find an avian vet near you http://aav.org/vet-lookup and
http://veccs.org/hospital_directory.php
These days, with birds growing fast in popularity as in home companions, many DVM's are quite experienced and able to see and treat many birds. If you have a pet store that sells birds or know of any bird breeders - ask them who they use for their bird care.
I'm surprised the calcium didn't make a difference. I'm very glad that you brought him to the vet
If there was an infection the Baytril should handle that (if it's bacterial)
How long has he been on the current course of meds and supplements? You've seen worsening instead of any improvement at all?
Decreased circulation during & for a while after the seizures is why he's cold. It doesn't take much to contribute to a bird's temp changing like this. They don't generate heat like we (or other mammals) do. The feathers are both their heater and air conditioner. Fluffing feathers (puffing out) is what they do when too cold and needing more heat; keeping their feathers flat and holding their wings slightly out and down is how they react when they're too hot and need to cool off.
Feet are great indicators of body temp - if too warm, gentle spritzes of cool water may provide immediate relief; if too cold, use a thick, clean sock and fill it ¾ with plain, raw white rice. Knot the end and microwave it for about 1 ½ minutes. Shake it afterwards to distribute the heat and be sure it's not too hot.
You can layer a thick towel on one side of the cage, secure with clothespins out of the reach of the bird's beak - then clip a heating pad over the towel and set on low. Check often to be sure it's not overheating and that the bird isn't gnawing through. A side attachment like this will allow the bird to move closer or away as needed.
If the bird is bottom-bound, install a heating pad under just a portion of the base, again, set on low.
The rice sock option is far safer and more efficient though.
Cover the cage with a thick blanket, leaving all or part of the front door uncovered for better air circulation, to help keep the bird calm by being able to see out and of course so you can check on it regularly just by peeking in. The covering also helps hold some of the heat inside.
I'm very uncomfortable giving the heating pad suggestion because of the potential for the bird to bite through the bars and possibly catch a part of the heating pad. This is just one reason I prefer to avoid electric sources of heat. Another reason is that heating pads can suddenly become faulty and overheat. If ever using an electric source for heating anything in anyway, please be vigilant and constantly double checking carefully.
Choose water over Gatorade. Gatorade is ok for emergencies, children's Pedialyte is better though. For this little guy, just plain water or some all natural fruit juice with some plain water added - about 1/2 and 1/2.
If I didn't share this before, here is some info that should be shared with your vet, just in case they need a reminder:
Blood calcium levels are deceptive. They will often fall within the normal range (8.0 - 13.0 mg/dl), so an ionized calcium level needs to be done.
Calcium supplementation is helpful, but only if this is the problem to begin with.
This link should be even more helpful:
I don't want to quit on him yet. As long as he's still got pleasure in his life and isn't in pain or suffering - let's keep fighting. Right?
(no need to press 'accept' again on this - I'm glad you followed up)
Put it in the cage with him until he recovers from the seizure. It will supplement the heat in his immediate vicinity. You can lay a newspaper over it or soft towel (I'd avoid the looped terrycloth types so his nails don't get caught in them) and let him lay right on it once you are sure it's not too hot. Shaking it out helps distribute the heat more evenly and gives you a better idea of the temp.
If you can comfortably hold it on the back of your hand or on your upper lip without it feeling too hot, it's good.