Hi,

Sorry, I dont have anything that shows inside hidden view of window regulator, besides those I have already provided. If you look at bottom diagram it shows regulator attached to window glass channel. Top diagram shows cable going from regulator to motor. But I dont have a diagram showing all these at once inside of door panel.

I will opt out and see if anyone else has that type of diagram.

Hi XXXXXXXXX. I have a few things to add and then you've got work to do!

Actually, once you get inside the door panel you'll likely find this to be a pretty simple job. Eric sent some great instructions and I'll just try to round out some of the practical points a bit.

One thing I noticed missing was a good explanation of door panel removal... possibly a hyperlink that didn't make the leap. The panel is held in place by Phillips screws at the panel base, at the front/ top and near the door handle. Once removed, push UP on the panel to disengage the panel hooks from the door frame. It just lifts off... no push-pins.

You'll have to juggle the panel while the door handle release link is unclipped. It's a plastic capture-type of release clip; just push it away from the metal link.

There will be electrical connectors to deal with. Power window and power locks are a given, but you may have a tweeter speaker to disconnect as well (see diagram) as the larger door speaker. The water dam is held in place by a gummy/ sticky substance that allows the dam to be reused if care is used in removal. .

Set the panel aside.

Most failures of the window regulator involve broken cabling or a motor that won't move the glass any more. That often means the cables need to be cut with diagnonal cutters (or similar) to free the glass for positioning in the lower portion of the run (for bolt removal). Two 10mm hex bolts hold the regulator to the glass lift plate. Run some packing tape from the glass above the door to the upper door frame to keep it from dropping onto the door bottom when the cables are cut. Once loose, pull the glass all the way to the top and retape it there while the regulator is exchanged.

You will have four 10mm hex bolts to remove on the regulator body and three 10mm nuts on the motor to free the assembly. The electrical connector is separated by clicking the red slide-lock to the opposite side and then pressing the thumb tab. The slide-locks trip up everyone the first time out (lol)!

With the glass at the full UP position, maneuver the old regulator and motor from the door frame. Parts will be falling off, so do a good sweep of the inner door to get the rattles out before you notice them later.

The new regulator frame will have two bolts attached and you need to re-use the rest. The motor will use new fasteners (8mm hex screws) and the motor will need to be repositioned as part of a running change. This is the only tricky part.

The regulator will come with a transparent overlay that points out the places that new holes need to be drilled. It positions very well over the old layout, making this part pretty easy. Just punch through the template or poke big enough holes in the drill location points to be able to Magic Marker the new locations.

Then drill it out using a 1/4" drill bit. Size isn't super-important for this, so you could go a bit bigger for more wiggle room if needed.

Now feed the fully-assembled regulator into the opening and drop the loose (supplied) bolts into the open attachment points. Add two bolts, but don't tighten it down just yet.

Now position the motor to line up with the new holes that you had just drilled. Go ahead and tighten them down. The electrical lead feeds back through the same hole in the door as before. Connect and lock the slide lock.

The regulator will be positioned perfectly in most cases to line up the window lift plate with an access hole, making installation easier than removal. Lift the tape off the door frame and carefully slide the glass down the channels and onto the regulator. Start the two 10mm hex bolts (any will do... some are longer, some not) and tighten them fully.

Connect the window switch to the door harness and run the window all the way to the top, pressing it into the seal. NOW tighten the regulator bolts fully. Run the window up and down a few times to see if it needs channel lubrication (silicone dielectric grease works great). If it travels straight and smooth... it's time for reassembly.

Reassembly is basically just reverse-order disassembly. You'll have to deal with the door lock button while you're juggling the door link and connectors, which adds a little challenge to the process. Pull the door lock up to give you a little more penetration through the door panel and make it less likely to be lost at the last second.

Hook your lower panel links first, then lift the panel again and fit the upper hooks into the door. Once you can see that the panel will sit flat to the door, push it downward and thump it into place with your hand. Install the screws... and you're done!

If you have any questions, don't hesitate to write back.

Thanks,

Ed

That's part of the old regulator assembly, XXXXXXXXX. It's not something that can be serviced separately, so it wasn't mentioned by name. The new regulator will come with the half-moon piece installed where it should be.

What you're seeing is a pretty typical failure of the regulator... it's either bad cables, this piece breaking off the upper end of the unit or both. As window regulators go, this one is pretty easy once you get inside. Just remember that you'll probably need to cut the remaining cables to get the window to slide to a point where you can reach the regulator-to-liftplate screws, which will be within the last few inches of travel.

The glass WILL fall through the bottom of the channels, so I always have tape drawn and attached to the upper door frame for easy glass capture once it's released from the regulator.

Ed