Pool and Spa
Questions about Pool Repair? Ask an Expert Online.
so are none of the pumps running, or can you hear any of them running, but just not pumping any water? Sometimes when you drain a spa, the pump will still run, but gets and air lock so it doesn't pump water, just wondering if they're actually running or not.
Ok, it would help in troubleshooting if you could shoot me a picture of the control box down below with the cover removed so I can see the wiring. And another one of the entire equipment area, so I can walk you through some troubleshooting on it. Also do you happen to have a meter we can do some testing with?
Ok, that system uses a small 3/4" circulation pump to run the heater. The heater is that unit mounted to the right hand side of your control box that has the two 3/4 inch hoses connected on it. The hoses are going off to the right of the pic, so u can't actually see the pump wet need to get to. You may need to remove the panel on the right so we can see that pump. Once exposed, touch that small pump with your hand and let me know if it's hot to the touch or just warm and vibrating, or totally cold.
ok, if no pumps will run, the first thing we'd need to do is open up the sundance conrol box and make sure we've got 240 volts coming in the the box to supply everything, do you all happen to have a meter we can test with. I know a lot of people don't, but I always ask as that's really the next step in troubleshooting this. Thanks, jeff
well, the topside works off of 120 volts, but the pumps and heater work off of 240 volts, so I normally test to begin with to make sure we have full voltage coming into the spa pack. We could just have a blown fuse inside the control box as well, but I'd need to see a picture inside of the box to guide you through the testing if you have the meter to test with.
The white box that says Sentry spa control system down below is where the circuit board and incoming power is, but I don't see a picture of it anywhere in the conversation, just the topside touch pad and the outside of the control box. Before we do that, In your picture of the small circ pump, the flow switch will be up above it in the tubing, normally in a small clear tee assembly. the flow switch has a little grey wire coming out of it. The Flo2 error normally means that switch is stuck in the closed position. Can you look at the switch and either get me a picture of it, or see if the arm of the switch, is away from the center post, or pushed over against it. We need to see if the switch is indeed stuck in the closed position or not.
Yes, that definitely looks like the switch is open. Do you have a meter to test for continuity through the switch at the other end of the wire where it plugs into the board. Just want to make sure it's not still sending a continuity signal to the board before we move on.
I just asked you if you had a meter to test the flo switch, and I get "thanks for nothing" . I was working on tracking down the problem, I'm assuming you're giving up on trying to fix this? I'm happy to stay with you until we found the problem, but since I'm not sitting in front of the spa with a meter, I have to rely on you to do the tests required to isolate this. And there are ways around letting it freeze, unless you're just done trying, but I was just waiting on an answer from you on whether you have a meter or not. Just let me know, still here and ready to help
I can suggest ways to prevent any freeze damage if you're done trying to fix it, there's no sense letting it freeze if it can be prevented.
Not a problem, gets frustrating for me on this end as well when I can track down most problems in minutes, just takes forever through chat and I never know what tools or knowledge anyone has. Ok, do you happen to have one of the small cube style electric heaters, if so, I keep 6 of them in the van with me here in ohio due to the temps and any time I don't have the parts to fix a spa immediately, I put one of them under the spa in the equipment area, set it for about 80 degrees or so, then put the sides back on the spa and it'll keep everything fine until repaired. You can pick them up for 15 to 20 bucks at lowes or home depot, well worth the money. On the testing end, unfortunately we're to the point where we need to test a few things with a meter to see where the problem is with this pack, so you'll have to let me know on that front whether that's doable or not. thanks, jeff
Any place you can fit one of those under the cabinet area is fine, I sometimes put them on top of a pump or wherever it will fit . if that's not available, a treble light works pretty well, but doesn't generate a lot of heat. We do still have the possibility of a blown fuse somewhere on the board keeping the pumps from running, but the pic of the inside of the control box is a little to blurry for me to make out anything. Yes, I'll be around tomorrow also, will probably be out working on a couple of spas, but I can work on this from my phone in between jobs. If you can find a friend or anyone with a digital meter, that is really what we're going to need to eliminate a few things if possible, but I'll stick with you for as long as needed.
ok, i'll wait to hear back from you, thanks, jefff