Pool and Spa
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we do not know the existing symptoms..
Is it acting like no power or is just not responding?
What is the current state? Totally dead or just no operation
thank you, ***** ***** get it out of the way...what is power to board hot wire to ground...and then hot wire to hot wire?
so is it safe to say there is no meter to see if power is correct? Just because it is wired correctly does not mean the correct power is there...especially with 2 legs of (120)
I do not doubt the wiring or 2 feeds..even gauge of wire. I also start with a known factor and go from there..I have had one side of 220 breakers bad...I have senn a leg missing.
I usually do not go internal until I have an established known value...then I go from there.
Even to go internal we need a meter to see where the loss is. There is nothing we can do by looking or changing parts..
That is the issue ...an expert needs to go by fact.
IE: I have 220v confirmed at point *...I go to point * and there is no power. A tester only tells if current is present..not how much...and on 220 circuit , since they use as each other as a return to box...one line shows power on both.
The most common failure with 220v is one leg gone...you still read 120v on each leg..but it is the same 120v...measure line to line and not ground would show 0.
I know you came here for expert advice..but without hard numbers at given points I am guessing..and I do not guess on 220v
One feed would appear dead on a 220v
with a voltmeter..if wires are correct..
red and black wuold be 220v
red on one breaker
black on the other
white would be at neutral bar in box
ground on ground bar.
The red and black would attach to unit as 220v...
redto white = 120v
black to white = 120v
red to black = 220v
just check it out and let me know. Keep this on your end until ready
sorry but any response from you prompts my end and flags me for a mandatory reply. Just keep this on your end and do not reply until ready,,,disregard any computer generated promts