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TheHotTubGuy
TheHotTubGuy, Hot Tub Repairman
Category: Pool and Spa
Satisfied Customers: 448
Experience:  15 yrs. experience repairing all brands of hot tubs.
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I have an older leisure bay spa and I just replaced the aux

Customer Question

I have an older leisure bay spa and I just replaced the aux heater control/relay after it burnt up and was displaying a flashing oh code. The spa has been running for a day now fine but I went to check it and it's back to the oh code thing again so I set the spa at 101 because the water temp read 100 and within 15 min it was back to oh flashing there's no way the water got to hot that fast. I also noticed that the spa does keep heating after heat light goes out and heater is receiving power to both leads to heater. Control board is a 52100
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Pool and Spa
Expert:  TheHotTubGuy replied 1 year ago.
Hello.
My name is ***** ***** allow me a moment to review your question thoroughly.I'll do my best to answer your question and resolve your issue.

Could you be more specific or describe exactly what part you replaced? I'm a little confused by what you call the aux heater control/relay....

You spa will go into OH for several reasons:

1. The water in the tub is too hot (apparently not happening)
2. The water in the heater body is too hot. This is usually from a poor or no flow through the heater. You may have a dedicated circulation pump for the heater.
3. Clogged filters in some cases
4. Bad board or bad temp sensor.
5. A heater element making contact with the heater manifold wall near the hi limit sensor. Rare, but sometimes occurs. If you have the low flow heater shaped like a can, probably not.

Check the things above and try to help me ID the part you recently replaced and we can continue until your issue is resolved.

Standing by,

Todd
Expert:  TheHotTubGuy replied 1 year ago.
Just wanted to let you know that I'll be checking in periodically today in case you wish to continue or troubleshoot.

If you think it would be helpful, shoot me some pics of the wires at their connection on the side of the control box. That way, I can see what you see.

Standing by,

Todd
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I had to work out of town today but will send you more info tomorrow as to your questions
Expert:  TheHotTubGuy replied 1 year ago.
That's fine, just reply when you wish to continue. I will try to check back periodically today.

Standing by,

Todd
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok I looked over the items you suggested with no other solution other than a bad board. And The part that burnt up and I replaced was a Balboa part number 54103, auxCircuit Board which acts as the second leg of power for the 240 volt heater. I say it's a bad board because the heater remains on regardless of the temp is at 75 and the water is 80 or the water is 102 and the temp is at 100 I can manually control the heat for the side with the aux board by removing the small dc voltage trigger but the other leg of power remains on regardless of temp and with the heat light on the upper temp display cutting off when the set temp is reached. What actually controls the relays the upper control board where you set temp or the main control board underneath the tub.
Expert:  TheHotTubGuy replied 1 year ago.
I have not seen that relay part used for anything other than a mist option on tubs. Sure doesn't look like that white wire is going to carry a 4kw or 5.5kw load for a heater.

If the tub remains heating after the heat on indicator light goes out on the topside control, the main heater relay is probably sticking closed after being told to open. Old relays get weak and the current going through the worn out contacts can overpower a weak spring that opens it. You can test this theory by lightly tapping on the board heater relay with a screwdriver handle after the heat on light has gone out on the topside.

If you send some good pics of your board and control including the eprom chip in full view, I can get a better look and advise you further on your options. The eprom chip has the software id on a white sticker on top of it.

Also, please include a pic of the back of the box cover so I may see the entire wiring schematic. I may have a less expensive repair option or reman board option for you.

Standing by,

Todd
Expert:  TheHotTubGuy replied 1 year ago.
Any update?

Standing by,

Todd

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