Pool and Spa
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yes we had the spa drained down for about 4 months but ran ok for a week after refilling
Well, for one thing Cal spa stopped using the safety suction switches a few years ago because of so many problems with them, so we normally unplug them from the circuit boards to keep them from shutting the board down. Before you do that, i'd like you to remove your filters, turn the breaker off for about 30 minutes or so, then try the spa again and let me know if that makes any difference. Thanks
hi i have tryed turning the tub off for 30 minutes it has made no difference thanks
okay, when you say the pump comes on, does it sound like it's actually running, or does it just make a humming sound? i'm wondering if it's locked up on you or whether it's actually running and spinning. Normally if it's locked up, it will just hum for a few seconds, overheat and shut down, then hum again.
the pump comes on because the jets work each time
okay, then it's probably an issue with the suction switch system I was mentioning before. if you shut down power to the spa, open up the access panel and open the control box so you can see the circuit board. Your suction switches normally have a blue rubber boot over them and they're threaded into the plumbing lines right in front of your pump. follow the grey wire all the way into the control box to where they plug into the circuit board and unplug the receptacle from the pins on the board, just leave it hang in there as we will plug it back in if it doesn't make any difference. once you've unplugged it, turn the breaker back on and see if the pump continues to run and let me know. thanks
hello i unpluged the suction switch but the tub ran the same do you think it may be circuit board
it's possible, but I just wanted to rule out all the simple fixes before we call it the circuit board, and you unplugged them from the circuit board and not the switch itself, correct?
also, does the pump sound normal when it does come on, not excessively loud or anything?
hello yes i unpluged the wires from the board and the pump sounds normal
well, if it's running normally and there's not a problem with the pump, then all that leaves is the board itself. with the suction switches disconnected, the only thing controlling the pump function now is the relays on the circuit board. Now the only other thing you can do to totally isolate it is check the label on the pump, it's probably a 220v. If it is, then you can shut the breaker down, you'd have to cut the chord that goes to the pump, it could be spliced back together with butt connectors later if you need to, strip the wires back on the pump chord going to the pump and wire the white and red wires directly onto the 220v terminals where your power comes into the spa. This may be more than you want to try, but if I were sitting in front of your spa at this point, that's what I'd be doing. By doing this, you're bypassing the entire control board and all the circuitry just to make sure the pump will run if it has 220v feeding it. If the pump runs fine when you do this, then it's the board for certain. If the pump is still cycling on and off, then it's a bad pump. If you have any question about doing this or don't feel comfortable, just let me know. If you have what's called a "dually pump", where it has water connections on the left and right ends of the motor - they are prone to doing weird things sometimes and are about as expensive to replace as the circuit board, that's the only reason I'd want to isolate one or the other before you start replacing parts, unless you're going to have someone else do it for you, in which case they can isolate which one is causing the fault.