Hello, how can I help you today? Well, there are only a few things that make the heater work on any spa. first of course is the heating element, if you have a meter, you can check for voltage at the heater terminals - if you have 220v there and no heat, then the heating element is bad. If you don't have power at the element, there is a pressure switch that senses water flow to turn the heater on, something as simple as dirty filters can trigger this switch into turning the heater off, so try running the spa without the filters in and see if it heats. There are also two sensors that sense the water temp and tell the heater when to come on. If the sensors are bad, the heater will not come on either. The last thing is the circuit board itself, I can talk you through testing any of these that you feel comfortable testing if you'd like to go into it further, I'm happy to help out!
well, if you can call XXX-XXX-XXXX I would appreciate you walking me through checking the electrical items. This happen before then it started
working again without much more than messing around in it...I have checked for loose connections...but no easy ones found.
unfortunately, even though that would be easier for me as well, just answer prohibits us from doing it that way, which is why your phone number shows up as all X's on my screen, they totally block out all the numbers anytime a customer sends personal information like that
the control board has a red light and a green light lit on it. the red light is for the heater is on LED, the green light is for LM ok, whatever that is, the botXXXXX XXXXXght is for control panel unplugged and that is not lit....
if the red light is on indicating power to the heater, then you should have 220volts at the heater terminals. Just out of curiousity, does your pack have just one or does it have two circuit boards in it. some of the watkins spa packs have a smaller separate board on the left side of the box that is piggybacked on the larger board, these smaller boards are very prone to failure, i change them all the time, do you happen to see anything like that?
no small board on side of main board,
okay, well if the heater indicator light is on then you should have power to the heater itself, the light won't come on unless all the safety switches are active and good, so it doesn't sound like we need to even check any of them. Which brings the only culprits down to the heating element itself or the board isn't sending power to the heater. so if you're able, and very carefully, we need to find your main two heater terminals and put one lead each of the meter onto the heater terminals, if you don't have 220 there then your board has a short in it. If you do have 220 at the heater and you're still not heating, then the heater itself is bad
appears to me that the two leads coming off the main terminal strip where the AC 240 comes in and then goes to the
heater is reading 240. so I guess the next step is to ohm out the heater to confirm its bad...an open being bad, a reading of some ohmage being good, which then would perplex me...
your main line coming in on 240 shouldn't be going straight to the heater or it would be heating all the time, have you checked it at the heater wires themselves to check for voltage there? and yes, you can disconnect the heater wires, they have to be disconnected from everything else to ohm them if you want, but you should have around 9-11 ohms if you still have a good heater, or an open circuit if it's bad, but if it had been bad at either of the times you lost heat, it never would have started heating again, so it's more than likely a fault on the board itself, but I'd want you to check the voltage right at the heater wires first before we went further
does nt the heater wires go into the thermal overload device before going to the heater?
yes, they should, but the easiest way is just to follow the wires into the box from the heater itself, they will normall be the biggest wires in there, other than your main line coming in. Most boxes also have a wiring diagram on the backside of the cover box that shows where the heater wires go on the board, usually they will be directly connected to a couple of relays
OK, pulled the heater out, got open on the ohm reading, you guys sell replacements? its a no fault 6000, dont think it had a unlimited warranty.