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Yes, I'm still waiting for an answer. I was not in a hurry, so put the timing as such.
I appreciate your help.
Checked the PCM fuse, and had just shy of 13V at both leads, in both the 'on' and the 'start' position. As an FYI, the PCM fuse was 20A.
For that matter, also checked the 60A ignition fuses, both leads were hot in both on and start positions.
Sorry on the year mis-type. It is a 1996. The security light does not come on at all, nor any of the other lights or gages on the dash.
And, as I mentioned, we have cut the wire for the security system and installed the appropriate capacitor to mimic the key. This was done over a year ago. We've been driving the car that entire time, so should not be any issue with that.
If I'm not mistaken, the starter is accessed from underneath the vehicle. Just a bit difficult to get to without being up on ramps. I could jack it up with my floor jack, but just wondering if there are other things to check now that you know it isn't the security system.
No power at the Airbag/Vats 10A fuse (position 2E). It is on the inside fuse block.
Also no power on the entire row 1:
1A - RUN/ACC/VATS 10A
1B- SIG/B/U LPS/BTSI/COR 20A
1C- AIRBAG 10A
1D- IGN(RUN/CRNK) CHIME CLSTR 15A
Confirmed this several times by referencing the radio fuse which I know was live as the radio worked, and quit when I pulled the fuse.
For that matter the other fuses were all live on the inside block, except the INTERIOR LPS.
I checked all the maxi fuses for power - they all looked good. If there was a specific one in a circuit in question, would be glad to check it again.
I haven't checked the relay yet since we don't have power at the Airbag/Vat fuse.
Thanks for your patience to get to the bottom on this one.
I just realized I didn't check the Airbag/VAT fuse in the crank position, only in the run position. No power in run position.
Where is the Park/Neutral position switch? Seems like the next logical thing to check.
Happy 4th of July. Frankly, I was surprised you were on at all today. I figured you'd have the day off and be celebrating.
I dropped the panel held by the three 7mm screws. From what I gather, the ignition switch is up in the cowling near the key switch.... not real obvious on how to check the power on the switch as you describe.
Any pointers in that regard?
Are you sure this dialogue isn't going longer than it should based on the use of this forum? I certainly appreciate your help, but don't want to abuse the intentions of the service.
PS - in checking this again tonight, it shows as closed. Not sure why. Was hoping to finalize the root cause of the problem before officially closing.
Finally back at it...
I have power at the red, orange, brown, green in the run position.
Also have power at the yellow in the crank position.
The pink wire has no power in either the run or crank position.
Does this help?
Got the new switch installed. Gages work, and the starter cranks. Good work.
One last thing I'm chasing:
When I crank the engine, the starter is somewhat intermittent, like there is not a good connection somewhere. I've never experienced this. Do you know what might be the source of this? At first I figured it was the adjustment of the switch as it has slots in it. Figured the position to activate the starter was marginally getting depressed. I adjusted this in the slot as far as it would go to push the switch in the right direction, and still had the same performance.
Just to clarify, by intermittant, I don't mean that sometimes it cranks, and sometimes it doesn't. When you turn the key to start it, it like the starter is going on and off, in a somewhat random way.
All is back running.
Thanks much for all your help!!!