Hello and thank you for your post. I am a master certified GM tech and can help you to resolve your issue.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
Relieve the fuel system pressure.
Drain the cooling system.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Air cleaner assembly
Accessory drive belt
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve
Brake vacuum pipe at the intake plenum
Fuel pressure regulator vacuum line
Spark plug wires from the spark plugs and the intake plenum retainers
Ignition coil assembly and the Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) canister purge solenoid as an assembly
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) electrical connector
Idle Air Control (IAC) sensor electrical connector
Fuel injector electrical connectors
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor electrical connector
Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor electrical connector
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor
Coolant hoses from the throttle body
Control cables from the throttle body and intake plenum bracket
Upper intake plenum
Both rocker arm covers
Fuel lines from the fuel rail and fuel line bracket
Fuel rail with the injectors
Inlet cooling pipe from the outlet housing
Heater bypass hose from the water pump and the cylinder head
Upper radiator hose at the thermostat housing
Lower intake manifold
When removing the valvetrain components, keep them in order for installation purposes.
Rocker arms and pushrods
Exploded view of the upper and lower intake—3.1L & 3.4L engines
Lower intake manifold tightening sequence—3.1L & 3.4L engines
Place a 3mm bead of RTV, on each ridge, where the front and rear of the intake manifold contact the block.
Install or connect the following:
New intake manifold gasket
Pushrods and rocker arms. Torque the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) plus an additional 30 degree turn.
Lower intake manifold. Apply sealant to the threads of the bolts and torque the bolts to 115 inch lbs. (13 Nm).
In order to prevent oil leaks at the intake manifold, tighten the vertical bolts before the diagonal bolts.
Thermostat housing with a new gasket. Torque the bolts to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
Upper radiator hose at thermostat housing
Coolant bypass hose to the water pump and the cylinder head
Coolant inlet pipe to coolant outlet housing
Fuel lines to the fuel rail and fuel line bracket
Both rocker arm covers. Torque the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
Upper intake manifold with a new gasket. Torque the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Coolant hoses to the throttle body
CMP sensor electrical connector
ECT sensor electrical connector
IAC sensor electrical connector
TPS electrical connector
Ignition coil assembly and the EVAP canister purge solenoid as an assembly
Spark plug wires
EGR valve. Torque the bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
Control cables to the throttle body and intake plenum bracket
Negative battery cable
Refill the cooling system.
An engine oil and filter change is recommended.
Start the vehicle and verify no leaks.
hope this helps.
It is also reccomended to replace the oil pump drive shaft o ring when this is apart. It is located at the rear of the engine near the trans. It is held in with one bolt and clamp. Remove the clamp and pop the drive out. The o ring on that leaks all the time.
It is also helpful to use a center punch and dimple the seal area at the engine front and rear of the intake so when you put the rtv sealant there, it has a rough surface to grab.
For the rtv I reccomend using permatex "right stuff" works better than anything on the market.
read this over and if you have any q's let me know
the pushrods are installed above and below the intake side gaskets so you do need to remove them to replace the gasket.
Buy the entire kit which comes with all the gaskets you need, then buy the drive o ring and the right stuff sealant and a gallon of DexCool antifreeze. (no substitution there!)
if any of the coolant pipes are installed in a quick disconnect style of connector, replace the entire fitting. They ar ereadily available and sometimes crack from corrosion. You do not want to remove this intake again for that
If there are o-rings instead, and they do not come with the kit, replace the orings as well.
Can you please send me also the list of tools needed to do this job, thanks
that will require a set of 1/4" and 3/8" metric sockets and extensions, screw drivers and prybars.
A basic mechanics tool set plus some gasket scrapers, sand paper, brake cleaner spray, rags etc...
you will need a few metric wrenches as well so basically all the basic metric tools in a beginners tool set plus some long extensions.
I usually use a 1/4" universal swivel on some of the lower intake bolts for clearance as well.
pliers and the such will come in handy as well
OK, thanks. also wondering what do i look at under the Chilton Repair content
what do you mean?
The info I sent you was from chilton online but it is a password XXXXX website
above it says to click to enlarge image...
or is that the info below
That is the image below
Those are the only images below
is there anythinh else tonight?
ok so i have someone who is a mechanic looking at this for me & he would like to see whats involved in the process of doing this wonderful task. if he has any questions how do i get back to you or do I have to pay again???
You can reply to this thread within a few days with no additional payment.
Once the thread closes you will have to open a new thread unless you can manually re-open the thread.
If you have the option to manually re-open the thread then I can answer questions related to this repair for no charge
If not then it will be considered a new question.
if you are satisfied with my answers tonight, please hit the accept button and please also give me feedback on our session.
so can I leave this open for a bit or do I have to close it down once i'm done??
ha ha i'll be satisfied if he can fix my poor car... kidding thatnk you so much
I prefer that you hit accept since i have answered your question. I suggest posting a "poke" every day or 2 until you no longer need me ( short post about the status of your repair)
Once done the system will see no action and then the question will be closed.
I believe it takes a few days with no action before it closes.
ok so accept, then how do i 'poke' you after that
Just post a short comment like..."still waiting for mechanic..."
That will keep the thread active
where? do i do this
i've never done this before
same place you are right now. Once you log off you should get an email with a link to this question. Click th elink to come back here any time
I am online daily off and on so I may not respond immediately but I will within a day for sure
ah awesome, once again thank you very much I sure hope my car gets fixed \
I have only been in the chat room as an expert, not as a customer so I am not sure what buttons you have but I am pretty sure you can manually reopen a post if it closes.
Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX and good night.
have a good evening to you also, thanks again :)