Well, the oil control rings are the bottom rings on the piston and do not hold compression, so if they are worn or stuck due to crud the compression test would still show good but them oil control rings could not be doing there job and allowing too much oil to enter the combustion chamber. Other then disassembling the engine to clean the oil control ring grooves in the pistons and freeing up those rings you could try some engine degreaser or seafoam to clean up carbon and gunk and free deposits on the rings and grooves.
Usually if an engine smokes blue smoke when first started up and then the smoke goes away as the engine warms up indicates worn piston compression rings because when cold the pistons and smaller in diameter and when warm they expand to fill cylinder. If it doesn't smoke blue untill the engine runs for awhile usually indicates oil entering from between the valve stem and guides, due to being worn or bad seals because it will take awhile for the oil to buildup on the top of the head under the valve covers in order to leak down into the combustion chamber.
Although, another cause is oil left over in the combustion chamber after shutting down the engine and getting burned during the next startup.
If the valve cover gaskets are leaking then that is a good sign that the oil return holes in the head are clogged and oil is building up and getting sucked into the combustion chamber past valve guides and stems. If that is the case you can use a metal coat hanger and clean out the holes.
What I would do is do an engine oil flush with some engine degreaser such as seafoam and also change the filter and make sure you are using the correct weight of oil and maybe consider changing brands of oil if the problem persists.
A vacuum gauge hooked to the intake manifold may indicate worn valve guides if the gauge is not steady.
You may also want to consider stepping up to a hotter spark plug to help burn off that extra oil at least untill you get it all burned off, after the engine flush. Check the PCV valve also for being clogged, that will cause oil to backup into intake and get burned.
I see the available engines as 4 Cylinder vin8 1.8L EFI DOHC and the 4 Cylinder vinL 1.8L EFI DOHC for the 2003 Pontiac Vibe 2WD.
The head gasket for the vin8 is part # XXXXX from Velpro.
The head gasket for the vinL is part # XXXXX from Velpro. It also states Built to 05/01/2003 and part # XXXXX Built from 05/02/2003.
I don't really think it is the head gasket though or you would most likely know from having more problems.
Did it burn oil before the new head gaskets and did the new head gaskets help at all with the oil burning? Was that the reason for new head gaskets?
Has the oil and filter been changed on schedule? Is there any crud under the oil fill cap? Or did you notice any crud on the inside of the valve covers?
Gm vin cards says the vin L engine is a sfi (sequential fuel injection) and the vin 8 is a mfi (Multi-port Fuel Injection).
Also the rpo code for the vin L is LNK and the vin 8 is LV6.
it says the vin L LNK is Available 2003 to 2007 ENGINE GAS,4 CYL,1.8L(1.8-L) L4, DOHC, ALUM, YAMAHA 1.8L(LNK).
The vin 8 LV6 is Available 1990 to 2008 ENGINE-GAS, 4 CYL, 1.8L(1.8-8),MFI 1.8-8(LV6).
The valve stem seals for the vin 8 is Felpro SS728782.
The valve stem seals for the vin L is Felpro SS71053.
Here are the specs on the valves.
The Engine Identification Number is XXXXX on the lower left engine block as indicated by number 1.
The engine degreaser or flush should be added to the engine oil in order to flow through the oil galleries to free up those rings.
Autozone sells a motor flush from STP for $3.99.
Features & Benefits
They also have the seafoam for $9.99.
You may want to go ahead and add seafoam to both the oil and fuel tank. Maybe even slowly pout some down the intake to immediately clean the combustion chamber. Just don't allow the treatment in engine oil to stay in there for more than 5-10 minutes at idle and a warm engine, then drain and replace the filter. If pouring in tank it may take a while to clean. If slowly poured down intake once done take it out on highway and punch it a few times and blow that stuff out exhaust untill all gone. Just keep an eye on the coolant temp and oil pressure and don't do anything over any dry grass or it may catch on fire cause the exhaust will get extremely hot.
They explain how to use their seafoam products here.
To lubricate upper cylinders, add 1 oz. Sea Foam to each gallon of fuel.
There is supposed to be a slight pressure inside the crankcase. If you has blow-by past rings it would not only smoke out tailpipe blue but also smoke out the oil fill cap, but you have the opposite a vacuum at the oil fill cap. It sounds like you have an internal vacuum leak.
Well, all them misfires could be due to the huge vacuum leak.
p0300,p0301,p0302,p0303,p0304 are all misfire codes.
p0125 refers to ECT (Engine Coolant Temp) Excessive Time To Enter Closed Loop. Check the operation of the thermostat (it may be stuck open), ECT sensor signal circuit has high resistance, ECT sensor has failed and Inspect for low coolant level or an incorrect coolant mixture.
p0325 refers to Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction. Knock sensor signal circuit is open or shorted to ground, Knock sensor signal circuit is shorted to VREF or system power, Knock sensor is damaged or has failed or the PCM has failed.
p01349 or most likely p1349 refers to Intake Camshaft Position System Performance. Camshaft is incorrectly installed or incorrectly timed, CMP System actuator is damaged or has failed, Check the oil passages to the actuator for a restriction or the Timing chain has jumper or is worn out.
p0130 refers to HO2S-11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Circuit Malfunction. HO2S signal circuit is open between the sensor and the PCM, HO2S signal circuit is shorted to sensor or chassis ground, HO2S signal circuit is shorted to VREF or system power (B+), HO2S is damaged, contaminated or it has failed or the PCM has failed.
I don't think it will if too much oil splashes around to prevent the oil from leaking on exhaust manifolds get some splash clips.