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Thanks for your advice, I've already bled the radiators twice, its the entire downstairs that isn't getting any heat. The pipe that heads downstairs and connects to the mid point valve seems far colder than the other pipes in the system, would this matter?
Thanks for such a fast reply.
The repair was to a pressure outlet pipe connecting to the Mid valve, which had bent was leaking, the plumber replaced and soldered the pipe, it doesnt leak anymore. We had to drain both the hot water and the CH system before making repair, which we did from the lowest point in the house.
After we switched the water back on I was given instruction to bleed the radiators, which I did, some radiators had high pressure pretty quickly (within a few moments of twisting the bleed key) others took longer, but water was coming out of all them with reasonable pressure eventually.
After which me and my neighbour who came over to help diagnose the issue ran the heating system set to the highest temperature for an hour, all the upstairs radiators were very warm, the downstairs rads were very cold. Then we checked the downstairs radiators by bleeding them while the system was running and the water in them was cold.
We tried draining the system again, and repeated the process above to see if there was air in the system. The problem still occurs.
An interesting side affect is if I set the water to auto and the radiators to off, the radiator nearest the boiler still comes on. And the hot water pump seems to come on for hours, infact it's not turned itself off yet today without me turning the system off.
Here are the pictures you requested, we only have one mid point valve in the system.
The system is set to auto from the controller next to the boiler, this is a danfoss fp715
Hello again, thanks for the photo's.Judging by the solder job you photographed the valve might be installed upside down by a novice plumber.If the valve is closed, the pipe attached to port A (marked on the valve will be closed and the pipe from port A cool.if its open, to the mid position all pipes will be warm more or less.
Tell me please if the label on the front of the old valve was upside down as this one appears to be or not.Let me know what you find regarding port A and the valve position, we can go from there until the situation resolves.
Next steps if necessary will involve operating the valve manually and checking power to the valve and watching it operate and noticing the temperature at port A pipe and connection.
the valve itself was not changed, merely the pipe was resoldered as seen in picture 2.
the valve switch moves automatically depending on if the radiators are on, and can't be moved to the left by hand, it moves over to the left if the radiators are turned off automatically.
each radiator has a manual valve that can be opened or closed with pliers, (all are open) and a temperature setting ranging from anti frost to 10. All are set to 10.
Even though we have instant hot water, the water pump is still running almost 24/7 (I've had to shut it off at night, this is different to before the repair was made)
The system is connected to a cold water supply from the city via a main valve in the garage. As far as I'm aware, the system only takes water from the mains to replace water thats used by taps etc. The lowest drain points are auxillary pipes located next to this.
I'm not sure how to perform the operations you requested with the boiler. The service panel contains several switches (no dials). The boiler itself is located utility room adjacent to the kitchen. (This room includes terminals for washers and dryers).
The repair did shorten the pipe I circled in my picture by 20mm, if this is a pressure valve, may this affect the system pressure?