For this situation, I wanted to ask if you could provide online links to parts we would use to make the connection from the main line to the 1 1/2 pex, the cut off using curb key and the manifold. I do want to put a cut off as well just after the Tee. The sizing can be another question. We can just assume 1 1/2 pex.
Each manifold should be able output 2 or 3 3/4 lines from 1 1/2 pex. The manifold should have cut offs.
Thanks for your reply. I am in no rush with this question. If several slab leaks occur at one time or a slab leak is too difficult to repair, we may have to start the project (bring the water from the meter into each apartment i.e.stop using the existing main line) right away.
Although a plumber will be doing it, I want to know enough to do it myself to make sure we're not being cheated and it's done right. I wanted to please ask for web links for each of the items we discussed.
I prefer a link for the actual item you might use. If the size is slighly off, that's fine- at least it gives me an idea. For this question, could you please provide a web link for the following items:
In case the plumber makes a mistake with cutting the main line. I was thinking to buy 1 1/2 pex line and 2 sharkbite couplings. So I can repair the connection temporarily. Do you agree this is a good back-up plan?
I think there was a slight misunderstanding with something I asked . If I'm repairing a slab leak, ideally I would like to leave the water on at the meter. Our tenants get very upset when the water is off.
Can I use several utility pumps that pump from the bottom while repairing a slab leak (so I don't have to turn off the water)? We have only one shut off at the meter.
Thanks for the links. They do help.
Between the Tee you provided the link of and the ball valve, is it a direct connection or do I need to place a piece of copper between? I don't mean a transition plumbing fitting- I meant what's between :)
Also, between the ball valve you provided the link for and the pex adapter is that a direct connection or do I need a piece of copper between?
When I say curb key, I don't mean locked shut off valve. I mean one that requires a "curb key" like the one pictured in the link below:
These shut offs are typically used near a meter. Are they more reliable? If so, could you please provide a link for one? I couldn't find one
Is a manifold stronger than just putting a tee on the main line to a smaller pex pipe and couple shut offs. Do you agree?
Lastly, you mentioned that I have to turn off the water or use isolation valves when doing a slab leak repair. If I use several pumps that feed from the bottom of the pump, why will it not work?
Shut offs that require a curb key are buried in the ground near the curb outside they aren't used inside a building. You have a piece of copper between the TEE and valve. Depending on which adapter you use there either is a piece of copper into the valve or the fitting goes directly into the valve. No I don't agree that there is any meaningful advantage to using a prefab manifold over fittings and tubing. You misunderstood what I was saying about turning off the water to make repairs. If you had isolation valves that could isolate the area you're working on then you could keep water on the the rest of the building. When I talked about a pump I was talking about draining down the water in the piping more quickly not keeping the water on to part of the building. As long as the line you are working on is connected to the main it will fill up as soon as you fill the main. You could cut in a valve to isolate the section you're fixing so you could turn the water back on to the building. This valve could be a shark bite valve or a valve with compression connections so you don't have to solder it in.
Thanks for your reply. It helped cleard up things.
We will cut in the main line near the water meter. The cut off will be outside. I would prefer if it were to use a curb key. This is a very important part for this. Could you please provide a cut off that uses a curb key in 1 or 1.5 size? I would appreciate it as I couldn't find it online
It would be easier to locate the main line with a pipe locator. What do you suggest that we use to locate the pipe- which make and model?
About repairing a slab leak, our concrete is about 8 inches in many places. So it takes a long time even to get to the leak to repair.
Imagine, when I turn off the water for slab leak repair, I have forty screaming tennants asking about when the water will be on. They tell them that they will call the city etc. This has happened to me (then after breaking the concrete for many hours the master plumber didn't replace all the pipes- I fired him on the spot). Do you see anyway that I can use pumps to allow us to break the concrete with the water on?
Thanks for your explanation of giving notice. I need to remember that I am within my bounds by turning off water even without notice. Perhaps, I should try to give more notice. Thanks.
Two last clarifications and we are done. It seems to me that since I will be applying less pressure on the shut off (while turning it off/on), the ball valve is better than the one needing the curb key. It would be less chance of breaking from the tee etc. Do you agree and can the ball valve with handle be put outside?
Have you ever used or heard of a good pipe locator for locating pipes under concrete? Which one or brand would you say is good.
I've been doing this for over 40 years and I've never heard of a curb cock breaking. If you have an accessible valve box you could put a ball valve outside otherwise a curb cock would be buried in the ground with an access chase up the the surface. I have no experience with pipe locators so I can't recommend one. If we need to find a leak we usually hire a leak locating company.