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Jerry, Plumber
Category: Plumbing
Satisfied Customers: 3360
Experience:  over 20 years residential plumbing experience.
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I have a 1996 manufactured home with a well and pressure tank.

Resolved Question:

I have a 1996 manufactured home with a well and pressure tank. I have good water pressure (40-60 psi) and volume up to where it enters the house, including through the gate valve shutoff. The house outlets have low pressure, hot and cold, and when any two or more outlets are open at the same time, the flow is little more than a trickle. The sediment screens have been cleaned. I seems to me there must be a restriction in the main line after it enters the house. The pipes are concealed in thick flooring insulation. What's wrong...and how do I fix it??? Thanks, Jim
Submitted: 4 years ago.
Category: Plumbing
Expert:  Jerry replied 4 years ago.

Welcome to JA! Do you have a spigot after the main gate the has good pressure?

Usually what you describe is a broken gate valve... You may have more than one.

Expert:  Jerry replied 4 years ago.
Also if you have plastic flexible piping you should look for kinks in the main line, or check closely under the whole structure for water leaking out of the insulation, you may have a break in a line.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
I meant to say ball valve, not gate valve. I replaced the gate valve that was at the house entry point with a ball valve and looking up through it from below I confirmed that it was fully open. There is another ball valve right after the pressure tank, and the water flows full force from there through the ball valve at the house. The supply line from the tank to he house is fully visible on the crawl space floor (ground) and there are no kinks in it. No water leaks are evident. The pressure tank does not draw down when no outlets are open.
Expert:  Jerry replied 4 years ago.
Ok. Hmmm? I think you have sediment clog in the main cold line from the ball valve to the home, if ALL of the faucets are the same slow flow, then you may have some success with using an air compressor and tying in at the water heater cold line, and cutting the pipe at the house ball valve. Using compressed air you may be able to back flush the main and remove the sediment from the main supply. Other than that the only thing you can do is start following the main and cutting open the insulation to find the blocked pipe.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Yes, I considered using my air compressor but didn't know if that was a good thing to do. There is a line that runs to a faucet attached to the side of the house. I have a threaded attachment that would connect the faucet to the air hose...would that work instead of at the water tank connection? Also, how, by cutting open the insulation to expose the pipes, could I find the blockage?
Expert:  Jerry replied 4 years ago.
You can use the outside faucet, as long as you are sure it is tied in after the blockage. In other words, if this faucet is also very slow. Just make sure you set your compressor so it doesn't exceed about 80 psi. You will find the blockage most likely at the first tee in the line or hopefully there isn't too many 90 fittings, as there could be blockage at them also. My guess is though its at the first tee, which is generally very near the water heater location allow not always. You will need to have some couplings available and you would just have to cut the pipe and turn on the water to see if there is pressure or not
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