I would put him back in the bigger tank and see how he does. Hopefully with the mollies and using the Nitrifying bacteria it will help the tank. This is the hardest part dealing with the constant water parameter changes going up and down. Once it is finally set it will all be worthwhile. How are the other fish doing. Are the catfish still doing well?
Everyone else is doing fine. Do I do another transition exchanging water and such?
Unfortunately we need to keep up the 25%-35% water changes until we can get the Nitrites done. I know this is tedious, but it is the only way to get the nitries down while the tank is cycling. It seems Puffers are extremely sensitive to the Nitrites and we have to stay on top of the water parmeters. Joan
That's why I was hoping this would make him feel better. Maybe going from so many Nitrites to 0 was hard on him?? Now I fee like I've made it worse and I hope another move doesn't make things worse!
When you move him take a bowl and use part water from each tank and that will help with the adjustment. At this point there is no sense switching tanks, we need to do the water changes, even if they are a couple of times a day. This is the only way we are going to get the tank cycled once and for all. Joan
When I do a water change and retest the nitrites they haven't budged. Is that when I should be doing multiple a day?
Once you do the water change, give the tank time to settle where you can get an accurate reading. Maybe an hour or two before testing, so the adjustment can occur with the cycling. If still high, you can do another water change later in the evening. We do not want to over do too much, then we are disrupting the cycling. Use the Bio Spira or Fritzyme #7 to help with the cycling. It is nitrifying bacteria and will help. Joan
Ok. He is back in now. I turned the light off and he is already looking a little more comfortable.. still pacing but not any more than when I took him out the first time and definitely less than the small tank. Thank you.
I am glad he is doing better. I know this has been worrisome and hard on you and Remmy, but hopefully we can finally get this right and he can live a normal life and you can enjoy the tank and relax. Joan
I am not sure why but I am just now seeing your check up post. Things are okay. Remmy seems to do better each day.
I am confused on what is happening though....
Here's what is different:
My LFS suggested vacuuming the gravel assuming the never-ending off the charts nitrites were due to overfeeding. I did that and collected a lot of reddish-brown clouds of stuff and my living room smelled like dirty lake water for two days.
Since then my nitrites go between almost 0 and .5. What I notice is... I do a water change then test the water.. nitrites are slightly lower than before the water change.. then I test them before bed and they are even lower. I test them the next morning and they are so close to 0 and no where near close to .25 but as the day goes on they start to elevate again. So as I stated.. this morning they were almost 0 (if not actually 0) but about an hour or so after feeding I tested again and there was a slight elevation and I am assuming will continue to go up? The ammonia has remained at 0 since it hit 0 many weeks ago and the nitrates are at about 5.
The problem may be with the food itself and it settling in the tank. The fact that Remmy has improved makes me very happy, since we almost lost him. You may want to consider a different brand of food or feeding a little less and make sure it is being eaten. The food and feces are what produced the nitrites, but over all, it sounds like the tank is almost done cycling and Remmy is out of the woods. Joan
I have definitely tried to feed less and put less in at a time, making sure it's eaten before I put more in. I feed frozen Mysis shrimp and gammarus. Between the small bits of shrimp and how messy the puffers eat it can be hard to make sure it's all out of the tank. Do you think a stronger filter would help? I was planning on getting one anyway.. the one I have now only turns 125 gph.
A bigger filter or canister filter may be better. The caniste filter is used by many people who keep aquatic turtles, since they are so messy and the filter does a better job. I personally use a power filter by Aqueon Filter and it is very good. I would shop around and see what will work best for you. I do think it is an excellent idea. Joan
My LFS was confident I was done with the cycle so I took home another little puffer (yesterday). He eats great and explores after eating but other than that he hides in a log kind of dull colored. Could this be the slight amounts of nitrite that have appeared? Do I do a water change when traces of nitrite appear? It's even a tiny bit darker since last time I checked.. but still not quite .25
The new fish can make the difference. We need the Nitrites at 0, because we do not want them getting out of hand again. The Nitrates can be as much as 20ppm, but ammonia and nitrites need to be 0. Joan
Just so I understand what is going on... once the nitrites are there do they just continue to get higher as the day goes on? (Until I do a water change) I'm just a little confused on how it works I guess. Is my water this sensitive because the cycle has just barely finished?
Additions when the tank is newly cycled can change the water parameters. If they start to go up, and you add food and then we have feces, it is waste and that adds to the nitrites. The Bacteria that we added eats the nitrites (the nitrifying bacteria). When the tank is cycled it produces its own nitrifying bacteria and it breaks it down and changes the balance to 0 again. If the nitrites get too high we have to help with a water change. temperatures, new additions to the tank and amount fed can all change the amount of nitrites, and that is why we check them on a regular basis. The tank may be a little more sensitive since it has not been running that long. Joan
I am battling these nitrites still.. its a very small amount everyday but I just cant get them to zero. They're even below .25. I just got a new syphon and to get all of the gravel I ended up taking out 60%-70% of the water. The new little puffer has been eating very well but spent a lot of time looking unwell. After I completed the water change he looked really good for about 10 minutes and then he just started dying. He's currently laying in a plant barely breathing. Everyone else in the tank is acting normal. I am just confused.. what could have happened?
He may have been weakened or ill when you brought him home. We could try putting him in a small tank with some bottled spring water and part tank water and see if he perks up in an effort to save him. The tank may not accommodate another fish. We should be at 0 with the Nitrites, and it may just be that extra fish plus stirring of the residue on the bottom of the tank that was too much to cause a problem. I feel so bad, because I have never seen a problem this bad. Joan
Good news. We are fully cycled and water parameters have maintained perfect for well over a week now! I unfortunately did lose that other little puffer. I have noticed Remmy "flashing" lately. It's mostly on the filter since he hangs out there after eating. He looks at it, rubs on it, then darts away as if touching it was an accident. I have always seen him do this every once in a while but I feel like it could be more often as of lately. He eats perfectly fine. Spends his time looking for ghost shrimp but does glass surf and floats around under the filter (not IN the current but behind it). I have examined his body and there are no spots or anything weird from what I can tell.
Also, I discovered that my city uses chloramine to treat our water and am assuming this has been my problem. I purchased a chloramine R/O system and have only been using natural spring water until it gets hooked up. I would really like to get away from using any chemicals in my water if at all possible.
Nitrites and ammonia are 0, nitrates are about 20 (water change tomorrow) and pH between 7.6 and 8.
Remmy has been a tough little guy and because he has made it through all of this I am really attached and am becoming a little concerned about his rubbing. Any help would be wonderful!
The Rubbing could be a parasite or fungal issue. If you have not done a water change recently, a little fresh water with aquarium salt could remedy this. We use salt to treat for fungal, baterial and parasitic issues. I really do not want to play with any chemicals since we finally got over the hump with this. If it continues, we may try a little Melafix, which should not upset the balance. would rather do a 25% water chage with the fresh salt. Joan
Well it has been under a week since my last water change. I already use marine salt and keep his salinity at 1.005. I will do a water change tomorrow. Do you know of a way to check for chloramine in the water?
The reason I recommend AmQuel is that it removes the Chloramines and Ammonia in the water before adding to the tank. Almost every City water supply puts chlorine, Chloramines, Ammonia and floride into the water. a good conditioner like AmQuel removes those before adding the water to the tank, or I use spring water which I know is safe. My water when you run it, you can actually smell the strong bleach smell at certain times of the month. Joan
How long does it take for the AmQuel to get everything out?
It works immediately. I use it in the city water when I am out of Spring water. You can let it sit for 5-6 mins if concerned. I have never had a problem with it. There are other conditioners from Jungle and Tetra also, but I like AmQuel. Joan
There are some other symptoms of the other fish that may help with a diagnosis..
My sharks have been turning yellow.. their fins are darkest and now looking closer it looks like their skin is also yellowing.
One dalmatian molly has an open wound on her lip. I noticed it right after feeding yesterday so I assumed maybe Remmy accidently got her going after the same piece of food.. but today I was examining her very closely and she has gold specks on her but I can't tell if it is her coloring. Also, both mollies spend a lot of time at the surface after eating.
All of this combined with Remmy's flashing have me really concerned..
Reading about Velvet.... I turned off the light and shined a flashlight on everyone. The sharks are the worst. DEFINITELY looks like someone dumped gold dust on them. The Mollies are the next worst. Remmy doesn't appear to have much going on as far as the "gold dust" is concerned.
We know the water conditions are correct, so I think we can rule that out. The next issue would be a parasite that would cause the flashing, this is a possibility. Another possibility could be PH or could involve the chlorine in the water. This is a great chart that will help with the problems and the solutions: http://www.gbasonline.org/disease_chart.htm
I suggest Some Start Right in the water and lets start some medicated food to see if that helps. Sometimes there could be a problem with the diet causing a vitamin deficiency or an internal problem, that the medicated food may be able to remedy. These are the medicated foods that we can try: http://www.drgsmarineaquaculture.com/medicated-fish-food.cfm This is going to be a try and see what works, since I cannot see what is happening, so we will have to try and cover several issues.
My LFS sent me home with Coppersafe.. have you heard of that or had any luck with it? I don't have any Start Right.. I just have API Stress Zyme, API Stress Coat, Amquel, and NovAqua.. will any of those replace the Start Right?
I am not crazy anout Coppersafe. You could throw off the water parameters if you use too much. The Stress coat will help the soar on the Mollie, The AmQuel can replace the Start Right. Sometimes too much dangerous. I like to use Amquel to remove impurities, the aquarium salt and Stress Coat. When you strat adding Ph Up or Down, Copper safe, and other products, then the water parameters can get out of hand and undo all the hard work. The medicated foods should be fed sparingly and make sure it is eaten and not left to cloud the water. Joan