Hello,My name is XXXXX XXXXX I am a Vet Tech with special interest in Reptiles and Reptile Rescue. I need to ask some questions to assist you.How old is the Dragon 3 years or months?Can you tell me about the set up?
UVB light? Is it a florescent tube or compact coil, brand, age of bulb and strength?
Temps and how measured?
State to locate a Herp Vet?
What is the strength of the UVB bulb and how old is it?
Is the sand the vita sand or calci sand?
Please give me about 10 mins to type the answer. It takes me a bit to give you all the info. Joan
Loose substrates like sand and walnut shell are actually very dangerous and sold as a safe bedding. If ingested they can cause an intestinal blockage which can actually kill a Dragon. I suggest paper towels, cage carpet, or tile as a substrate for safety of the Dragon. You have some husbandry issues that I believe are causing the eye problems.The first issue is your Temps. The basking area should be 105*F-110*F, the warm side mid 90's and the cool side mid 80's. If the temperature is too cool the Dragon will shut down, and cannot digest food. They need the warmth to thermo regulate the body temperature since they are cold blooded. I would get a digital probe thermometer vs a stick on and recheck all temps zones. The stick on's can be off as much as 20* either way. The next issue we have is the UVB light is too old. they need to be replaced every 6
months and lack of a calcium supplement can weaken the immune system. The UVB light that is suggested is a Reptisun florescent tube 10.0. This is needed to work with a daily calcium supplement to prevent MBD akaMetabolic Bone Disease. This is some information on lighting:
Compact UVB problems: http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor-info.htm The UVB bulb should not have any plastic between it and the Dragon, it needs to run the length of the tank and be no more than 12" from the Dragon. Both lights should run daily for 12-14 hours a day. I want to give you some information on Metabolic Bone Disease, so you understand the importance of a calcium supplement to work with the UVB bulb:
http://exoticpets.about.com/cs/reptilesgeneral/a/metabolicbd.htm The diet is the next issue we have to deal with. Dragons over a year old need to have 20% live prey and 80% veggies. The live prey should include crickets, roaches, silk worms, phoenix worms and Goliath worms. Meal worms and super worms are too high in chitin which is the hard outer shell. Wax worms are like feeding candy. As far as veggies, lettuce holds no nutritional value and carrots if given too often can actually cause eye problems. I suggest collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, butternut squash and various berries for a treat. This is a good food chart:
I think that we need to make the corrections to the Temp, diet, supplements and lighting to help your Dragon. For first aid, please give a soak in a 50/50 soak of warm water and Pediayte infant electrolyte solution for 20 mins. This should warm up the Dragon. In the soak you can add a pinch of plain calcium into the mixture. Dragons absorb fluids through the vent area (where they pass stool). If he is not eating please let me know and we can get a slurry recipe for you to feed. Hopefully once we warm the Dragon up, get the correct lighting, supplements and diet, he should respond. If he does not I am going to give you a link for Her Vets in So CA: http://www.anapsid.org/vets/califs.html
Please let me know if you have further questions by hitting reply. My goal is to give you 100% Excellent Service. Joan