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Joan
Joan, Veterinary Technician
Category: Reptile
Satisfied Customers: 15258
Experience:  30+ years experience as veterinary tech and 15+ years experience doing reptile rescues.
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Hey I have a phone or email or yall can give me a way to contact

Resolved Question:

Hey I have a phone or email or yall can give me a way to contact yall. But my beardie doesny sem to want to eat nothing for the pastn4 days yea he ate just one baby cricket but I think to days ago he ate just one meal worm and 1 cricket but he hasnt been eating much like the 2 otheres they al live in the same tank had them for 2 weeks and 3 day, please anybody need help for this im scared he might be impact or something like that but if yal can give me an answer or answers and what to do when they get older first time ive own dragons but I love them and they love me all I have to do to pick them up is put my finger on thier chest and they go running up my palm. But plz I need suggestions and tips
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Reptile
Expert:  Joan replied 1 year ago.

Hello,

My name is XXXXX XXXXX X am a Vet tech with special interest in Reptiles and reptile Rescue. I need to ask some questions.

Are you housing all the Dragons together?

What size tank do you have?

How old are the dragons?

Bedding or substrate?

Diet prey/veggies?

Supplements?

Lighting? Do you have a UVB light? Strength, brand, florescent tube or compact coil?

Do you have a basking lamp?

Tempertures in the basking area, warm side and cool side and how measured?

Joan

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Yes for the momment can I house them when they get older I bought the reptihabitat starter kit so I'd say 20 gal and I got them from petsmart like 2 weeks ago and I had papper towls but my friend suggested the repti carpet I feed them 3 to five baby crickets everyday and I put some veggies but they dont touch that just every now and then but supplements I dont know all I do is dust them with calciumi have all the lighting right and the basking side is about 90 to 105 and the other side is about i really dont know but i will get a themometere this week and they still little. Hey hope i gave you enough info.

Expert:  Joan replied 1 year ago.

Hi,

I need specifics on the lighting, because the pet shops havebeen selling the wrong lighting as well as giving poor information about husbandry. Please give me the specifics on the lighting so i can assist you. Joan

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

OK i got the box and it says dual fixtures allows for one basking spot lamp and or 100W power sun UV lamp and one night light heat lamp, the thing that holds the light bulbs is a mini combo deep dome lamp fixture and the UVB i got just a rectangle black box that goes on top of my tank i put that in the middle i hope that's where it goes. and i use a blacklight for night time cause the air turns on and off which makes my room really cold but with the nightlight with a blacklight bulb that i got today will hopefully give them better sleep other than the nocturnal red light which was to bright for me and the beardies to sleep. any more info and i'll be happy to give you it.


 

Expert:  Joan replied 1 year ago.

Hello,

As I suspected they did not sell you a UVB light. They sold you a Basking light and a black night light. http://www.anapsid.org/uvtable.html

You need just two bulbs The basking bulb is exactly what it is for heat and basking and the other bulb you should have is a Reptisun 10.0 florescent UVB tube to supply UVB rays and to help metabolize the calcium put on the prey. You should be feeding 80% live prey and 20% veggies like finely chopped collard greens, mustard greens and curly endives. The tank should only house one Dragon. You should never have more than one dragon per tank. Leaving more than one dragon in the tank leads to bullying, which I suspect is what is happening. It also can lead to tail nips, toe nips and loss of limbs. They should have warned you that tank was way too small. The only time we bring two Dragons together is to breed and that is for a short period of time and the female is brought to the male's tank and removed after breeding. Right now the Dragons needs to be separated asap. I personally would return two of the Dragons unless you plan on getting more tanks. As the Dragons grow, they will each need a 40 gallon breeder tank. I am going to give you my care sheet and you can see the information I give to new owners. After you read it, please reply if you have further questions and I will be happy to continue with you. Joan

Bearded Dragon Care Sheet


  • Bearded dragons should be housed alone.


  • Ages of bearded dragons follow these guidelines:

1. 0-3 months- baby
2. 3-12 months-juvenile
3. 12-18
months- sub adult
4. 18 months + -adult


  • Bearded dragons live as much as 10-12 years if well cared for
    properly.
  • Bearded dragons have a very good temperament as long as they
    are cared for and handled.
  • When you bring your baby home, it may be quite stressful to
    him/her to get use to new home. May not eat well the first 2-3 days. They may
    not need to be handled the first 2-3 days if skittish and nervous.
  • Never use sand or any other type of loose substrate: Loose
    substrates can cause impaction (not being able to go Poop) in all ages of
    bearded dragons- they lick their environment to explore .It is difficult to keep
    germ free and clean. Ceramic tile, newspaper, non adhesive shelf liner and
    reptile carpet is what is most recommended. Use paper towels for the little one
    and as they get bigger you can change to something else.
  • Be sure you keep your beardies home as clean as you can. Clean
    up by spot cleaning when needed. Clean & sanitize entire tank every 10-14
    days. A good cleaning solution is a 20% bleach solution. If you choose to use
    wood climbing branches etc, these should be soaked in the bleach solution and
    rinsed well. Then bake in 250 degree oven for 30 minutes.
  • Need a climbing accessory: to bask and to warm up under basking
    heat light and lower branches or platforms to come down and cool off.
  • A hide of some sort like a cave.
  • A food dish and water dish.
  • Plastic spray bottle
  • Can use artificial plants when they get older- 3 months or so.

  • Digital thermostat and/or temp gun
  • Tank size: Minimal size tank for this age is 20 gallon long

  • Minimal size for older beardie: 4 months of age: 40 gallon
    breeder is the minimal tank size for older dragon. Can divide a 40 gallon
    breeder for a smaller dragon. Must have two lights for your beardie.

1. A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length
of your tank. Your dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he
will get metabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your
beardie outside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80
degrees or above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet
store. Never leave a beardie outside unattended.
2. A basking type light
that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your beardie must have warmth
to digest food & thrive.


  • Lights should be on for 12-14 hours each day. Follow the
    seasons and light timers are a great luxury if you can get them. 6 dollars at
    Lowe's. No lights or warmth needed at night unless your temperatures get below
    62 degrees. If they do, there are ceramic heat emitters that put out no light,
    only heat. Use these at night if temperatures fall below 62 degrees.

  • Temperatures have to be kept at the following ranges during the
    day:

Babies: Warm basking log: 105-125 degrees F
Cool side: 85-90

Adults: Warm basking spot: 110-115
Cool side: 80-85
Measure
temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these are most
accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.


  • Feeding a Beardie: Beardies eat live prey consisting of
    crickets, roaches and/or silkworms. Never feed any size of mice to your beardie.
    Never feed meal worms. They also must be given greens/veggies everyday. The
    younger they are the more live prey they should have. As they grow older the
    live prey decreases and the veggies/greens should be the major part of diet.
    Never feed anything bigger, than the space between your beardie's eyes. This
    includes both live prey and pieces of veggies/greens,
  • A chopper or food processor is a huge help when your beardie is
    small. Always offer greens and veggies: collard greens, turnip greens, mustard
    greens, cabbage, red cabbage, fresh green beans, yellow summer squash, butternut
    squash, sweet potato, cactus pad. Apricots, strawberries, apples, blueberries,
    raspberries, cantaloupe- fruits are treats only.
  • What is live prey? The easiest and less expensive live prey is
    crickets when you have a young or first beardie. The other live preys you can
    feed are silkworms, and special types of roaches. You can learn to raise your
    own live prey. Treats can be wax worms, super worms, and tomato/Goliath worms.
    You may find that ordering live prey from the internet is the way to go.....
    Never leave live prey or greens/veggies in tank overnight. . Crickets can bite
    your beardie when sleeping.
  • Babies should get 80% live prey, and 20 % greens/veggies. But
    since the greens/veggies are a must when they are older, get them eating their
    greens/veggies very early. Give greens/veggies in small pieces everyday. You
    should eventually start decreasing your older dragon's protein intake when they
    are about a year to 15 months old. Their protein intake decreases to 20 % live
    prey and 80% veggies/greens.
  • A baby eat 50-75 crix a day depending on the size of the
    crickets. Never feed crix or veggies bigger than the space between your
    beardie's eyes. Use this guide when buying crix or chopping your greens/veggies.

  • You must provide calcium dust without D3 and multivitamin dust
    for your beardie. You should dust the live prey with calcium one time a day, and
    vitamins 3 times a week. Just collect your live prey into baggie and add enough
    calcium and vitamin to dust them. Then pour a few at a time into your tank. Some
    people feed their beardie in a separate tank so that no crickets can hide. Or
    some take out "furniture" from tank and feed this way. As they get older, 4-5
    months or so dust live prey with calcium 3 times a week.
  • Feed the veggies/ greens 1st thing in morning after lights on
    for one hour at least. Then after 2-3 hours offer crix. Then freshen
    green/veggies. Then give more crix. Make sure after last crix feeding there is
    at least 1-2 hours of lights so that they can digest their food before night
    time.

*Beardies over the age of one year old during
the winter months will go into a Brumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a
form of Hibernation that is governed by the weather and time of year. The lights
should be on a shorter period at this time. Fresh greens should be available
during this period. Do not feed live prey during Brumation.

Water: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a
day. You can also offer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your
dragon is not too small to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie
is 2 months old you can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm
water- not hot. It will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can
move up to the bathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath
enclosure to be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between
dragons too if bathing more than one.

If you have any further questions feel free to ask. I like to
start people off with proper husbandry and then see if I can further
assist.

fruits and Vegetables

http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutritionframeset.html

Walnut shell Graphic: http://mrskingsbioweb.com/beardeddragngrossanatomy.htm

sexing bearded Dragons: http://repticzone.com/articles/sexingbeardeddragons.html



Joan, Veterinary Technician
Category: Reptile
Satisfied Customers: 15258
Experience: 30+ years experience as veterinary tech and 15+ years experience doing reptile rescues.
Joan and other Reptile Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Thank you and I have the uvb but its a small little 5 box and they all seem to get a long the all three get on top of each other and they like licking each other for some reason and the nipping is that when they just lick each other


 

Expert:  Joan replied 1 year ago.

Hi,

When you are not looking you will find that these Dragons will have tail, nips, toes lost and sometimes even worse. It is your choice, but I have raised and rescued Dragons for over 20 years and I can tell you eventually you will have injuries if you leave them together. The one Dragon that is not eating is showing stress issues and it is coming from being bullied by the other Dragons. All dragons taste their surroundings by using their tongues. I can offer suggestions, but If they were mine, I would be separating them. You can try giving the one that is not eating a soak in a 50/50 shallow warm water and Pedialyte soak, to help with hydration. It is important to start them young with soaks, so later on they will be getting them on a regular basis. It helps them with hydration and is very good for them especially with a shed. Joan

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