Hello,Can you tell me about the set up?
Temps and how measured?
UVB light? Tube or coil? How old is the bulb and strength?
Do you have a basking light?
Is she passing stool?
I need a little more specific information on lighting:
UVB light? Tube or coil? Name the bulb brand and strength?
Are you using a plain calcium?
Are you offering any veggies?
You confirmed what I was concerned about, that you do not have a UVB bulb. The UVB is needed to supply artificial sunlight which metabolizes the calcium in the body which turns into D3 which prevents Metabolic Bone Disease. This is some information on lighting: http://www.anapsid.org/uvtable.html
The basking area is a little too cool should have 105*-110*F and the cool side of the tank in the 85* range. This is important for digestion and passing of stool as well as for the activity level. If the temperatures are too cool the Dragon will shut down since they cannot thermoregulate their body temperature.
I recommend a reptisun 10.0 florescent tube that runs the length of the tank or a Mercury Vapor Bulb. They put out the greatest amount of UVB rays needed for health. This is a link for UVB and about the different bulb output: http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Researchmain.html
The lights should run 12-14 hours a day. The UVB need
s to be changed every 6 months. The coil bulbs are dangerous to the Dragons eyes. Compact UVB problems: http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor-info.htm
The UVB bulb or MVB should not have any plastic between it and the Dragon. The tube type needs to run the length of the tank and be no more than 12" from the Dragon. Both UVB/MVB or basking lights should run daily for 12-14 hours a day. UVB cannot penetrate glass and the UVB rays which are needed to metabolize calcium.
You should be offering chopped Collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, escarole and curly endives. Butternut squash and various berries are great for a treat. The Veggies should be put in fresh daily, and done about an hour after lights on. Note: Too many carrots can cause some eye issues. Kale and Spinach can bind calcium.
They need 80% veggies daily and 20% live prey over a year of age. The live prey should include crickets, silk worms, roaches, goliath worms and phoenix worms.This is where you can order silk worms and phoenix worms: http://www.coastalsilkworms.com/ and http://www.mulberryfarms.com/
Super worms and wax worms are like giving the Dragon candy. All veggies and prey should be dusted with calcium daily 5 days a week and vitamins 2 days a week.
I would suggest a Herp Vet visit to rule out any medical problems as well as there may be a parasite issue. I can locate a Herp Vet with a State.
Right now to help your Dragon, we can do a soak on 50/50 warm water and plain Pedialyte to help with hydration. This usually will perk up a Dragon. You do not have to make it any higher than mid way up the legs.
I suggest for supplemental feeding that we try some chicken baby food stage 1 mixed with calcium powder and some Royal Jelly which can be gotten in capsule form(can be gotten at any health food store) and opened into the baby food mixture. Drop on the snout and allow Princess to lick it off. Do not try to force feed as it can cause apiration Pneumonia.
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Bearded Dragon Care Sheet
1. 0-3 months- baby 2. 3-12 months-juvenile 3. 12-18 months- sub adult 4. 18 months + -adult
1. A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length of your tank. Your dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he will get metabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your beardie outside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80 degrees or above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet store. Never leave a beardie outside unattended. 2. A basking type light that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your beardie must have warmth to digest food & thrive.
Babies: Warm basking log: 105-125 degrees F Cool side: 85-90 Adults: Warm basking spot: 110-115 Cool side: 80-85 Measure temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these are most accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.
*Beardies over the age of one year old during the winter months will go into a Brumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a form of Hibernation that is governed by the weather and time of year. The lights should be on a shorter period at this time. Fresh greens should be available during this period. Do not feed live prey during Brumation.
Water: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a day. You can also offer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your dragon is not too small to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie is 2 months old you can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm water- not hot. It will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can move up to the bathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath enclosure to be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between dragons too if bathing more than one.
If you have any further questions feel free to ask. I like to start people off with proper husbandry and then see if I can further assist.
This is for fruits and Vegetables
Nutrition chart: http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutritionframeset.html
Sand as a substrate: http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/impaction/?page=3
Walnut shell Graphic: http://mrskingsbioweb.com/beardeddragngrossanatomy.htm
sexing bearded Dragons: http://repticzone.com/articles/sexingbeardeddragons.html
Please copy and paste the information to a word processor document and you will be able to print the information. It will still be available here for you at any time, if you bookmark the page. If you need a Herp Vet, please supply a state and I will locate some for you. Joan
This is a link for all Herp Vets that I have listed in Ohio: http://www.anapsid.org/vets/ohio.html
You may have to travel a bit, but they are specialists and a regular Vet does not have the knowledge to treat properly becuase of the anatomy.
I like 20 mins of a 50/50 warm water and Pedialyte soak. Dragons absorn fluids through the Vent area, so this helps dehydration. make sure that you get the UVB or MVB bulb asap that will make a big difference in activity levels. Joan
I hope all goes well! Keep me updated. Joan
If you cannot get a UVB at that shop, try another shop or ask for a Mercury Vapor Bulb. Those two bulbs put out UVB and the other do not.
This is one place that you can order, but it shows you what they look like:
This is Petco: http://www.petco.com/product/102889/Zoo-Med-Reptisun-100-UVB-Bulb-for-Reptiles.aspx?CoreCat=OnSiteSearch
You need to use two bulbs for the day time 12-14 hours. The reptisun tube for UVB and the regular bulb for basking. At night you do not have use any light unless it is very cold and at that point you can use the red light bulb or a ceramic heat emitter. This will give you an idea on set up. Joan
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