Baby bearded dragon stopped eating after eating two mealworms several days ago. Now refuses crickets, worms or greens for 3 days, no longer sleeps in normal spot in plants with other dragon in shade, instead remains lifeless on basking stone. Will move occasionally but not active, not socializing with other dragon, and not eating, appears to be losing weight. No herpetologists on area. How do I know what is wrong?
Pet's Age: <1
Name of Animal: Toothless
Forcing water with syringe, lots of powdered crickets available, fresh greens available, misting lizard. Has night light, day heat and UV bulbs, basking to 108 in day and 72 at night. Has water bowl, aloe plant with soil can get in which is in shade. Other dragon of same age is doing fine.
Hello and Welcome to Justanswer,How old is the Dragon?
Can you tell me about the set up?
Temps and how measured?
UVB light? Tube or coil? How old is the bulb and strength?
Do you have a basking light?
Dragons were bought about a month ago from pet chain as "babies."
Is the Reptisun a tube type 10.0 florescent bulb or are you using a Mercury Vapor Bulb?
Have you had a Vet Check for parasites?
Mercury vapor bulb. No fluorescents.
Thank-you for the information and picture. I just want to let you know I am a Reptile Rescuer/Rehabber and Veterinary Technician and not a Vet. I do have special interest in Bearded Dragons.
Can you please supply a state to locate a Herp Vet?
I will need a few minutes to type your answer. But will await you State. An y will add Herp Vet info for you. It will take me about 10 min. to get you all the needed info.
Carolina Beach, NC 28428
The information given you by the Pet supply was wrong about housing two Dragons together. They are solitary animals and should be housed separately. The only time we bring Dragons together is for breeding and at that time the female is brought to the male and then separated after breeding. We see bullying, tail nip, toes lost and other issues when housing two Dragons even as babies. My first suggestion is to separate these two Dragons.
The basking area is a little too cool should have 105*-115*F and the cool side of the tank in the 85* range. This is important for digestion and passing of stool as well as for the activity level. If the temperatures are too cool the Dragon will shut down since they cannot thermoregulate their body temperature.
I recommend a reptisun 10.0 florescent tube that runs the length of the tank or a Mercury Vapor Bulb. They put out the greatest amount of UVB rays needed for health. This is a link for UVB and about the different bulb output: http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Researchmain.html
The lights should run 12-14 hours a day. The UVB needs to be changed every 6 months. The coil bulbs are dangerous to the Dragons eyes. Compact UVB problems: http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor-info.htm
The UVB bulb or MVB should not have any plastic between it and the Dragon. The tube type needs to run the length of the tank and be no more than 12" from the Dragon. Both UVB/MVB or basking lights should run daily for 12-14 hours a day. UVB cannot penetrate glass and the UVB rays which are needed to metabolize calcium.
You should be offering finely chopped Collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, escarole and curly endives. Butternut squash and various berries are great for a treat. The Veggies should be put in fresh daily, and done about an hour after lights on. Note: Too many carrots can cause some eye issues. Kale and Spinach can bind calcium.
They need 20% veggies daily and 80% live prey under a year of age and once over a year of age we reverse the percentages to an 80% veggie and 20% live prey.The live prey should include crickets, silk worms, roaches, goliath worms and phoenix worms.This is where you can order silk worms and phoenix worms: http://www.coastalsilkworms.com/ and http://www.mulberryfarms.com/
Super worms and wax worms are like giving the Dragon candy. All veggies and prey should be dusted with calcium daily 5 days a week and vitamins 2 days a week.
I would suggest a Herp Vet visit to rule out any medical problems as well as there may be a parasite issue in te one Dragon. It does look very thin and possible parasite issue going on. I suggest making some improvements in the diet and temps, as well as separating the two Dragons because that has great bearing on what may be happening.
This is a link for Herp Vets in NC: http://www.anapsid.org/vets/northcarolina.html You may have to travel a bit to see one of the Vets listed but the Dragon does need to be seen.
Right now to help your Dragon, we can do a soak on 50/50 warm water and plain Pedialyte to help with hydration. This usually will perk up a Dragon. You do not have to make it any higher than mid way up the legs. I suggest for supplemental feeding that we try some chicken baby food stage 1 mixed with calcium powder and some Royal Jelly which can be gotten in capsule form and opened into the baby food mixture. Drop on the snout and allow the baby to lick it off. Do not try to force feed as it can cause apiration Pneumonia.
Please hit Reply to Expert, if I can assist you further, and I will be happy to continue with you. If you are happy with my Answer, Please press the Smiley Face in the Rating Box, so I can be compensated for my answer. I am here to help.
Bearded Dragon Care Sheet
1. 0-3 months- baby 2. 3-12 months-juvenile 3. 12-18 months- sub adult 4. 18 months + -adult
1. A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length of your tank. Your dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he will get metabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your beardie outside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80 degrees or above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet store. Never leave a beardie outside unattended. 2. A basking type light that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your beardie must have warmth to digest food & thrive.
Babies: Warm basking log: 105-125 degrees F Cool side: 85-90 Adults: Warm basking spot: 110-115 Cool side: 80-85 Measure temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these are most accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.
*Beardies over the age of one year old during the winter months will go into a Brumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a form of Hibernation that is governed by the weather and time of year. The lights should be on a shorter period at this time. Fresh greens should be available during this period. Do not feed live prey during Brumation.
Water: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a day. You can also offer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your dragon is not too small to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie is 2 months old you can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm water- not hot. It will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can move up to the bathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath enclosure to be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between dragons too if bathing more than one.
If you have any further questions feel free to ask. I like to start people off with proper husbandry and then see if I can further assist.
This is for fruits and Vegetables
Nutrition chart: http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutritionframeset.html
Sand as a substrate: http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/impaction/?page=3
Walnut shell Graphic: http://mrskingsbioweb.com/beardeddragngrossanatomy.htm
sexing bearded Dragons: http://repticzone.com/articles/sexingbeardeddragons.html
What is Royal Jelly? What do you wash them with, just water or some sort of soap? The dragons do not fight at all, they are practically inseperably, always touching one another and sleeping together all night every night, so while they may fight when they get older, I do not think that is the issue currently. The veggies and crickets stay in the cage all night long, so that could be a problem if the crickets are harming the dragon in some way. You mention a cage long fluorescent UV bulb, and also the MH bulb like I have, should I get rid of the MH bulb in exchange for a long fluorescent? It's tough to get the temps high enough, and I am running 3 bulbs all day, if I change to fluorescent I will have to add even more to keep it warm. I do not have a heated rock or pad under the carpet as I was told these are not a good idea. Also the list of local vets needs updating. I called the only two listed near me in Wimington, NC and neither of them see reptiles and state they haven't for years. I ordered some phoenix worms, but can't force feed them. He will take water from a syringe so maybe the baby food will have some success.
Royal Jelly can be found in Walmart or a healthfood store. It is a natural high potency supplement that is fed to the queen bee by the workers. It is used for sick or debilitated animals. It helps with Appetite. It comes on capsule form and can be opened into the mixture. The MVB bulb is perfect, but we sometimes see owners being sold bulbs that they are told are UVB and are not. The MVB will be good for a year vs the Reptisun tube which needs to be changed every 6 months. remove crickets if they are not eaten in 15 mins. They will bite the Dragons and this can cause some serious issues. Heat rocks are dangerouse and Dragons need heat from above.
The baby food mix is very good and we do not force feed because of the chance of Aspiration pneumonia. I really believe you are dealing with a parasite issue which is common in Dragons. The feeders carry coccidia, Pin worms and some other parasites and the fecal should be checked on both Dragons. I would continue to try and call the Vets in the list as you may have to travel, but well worth it to be sure that the Dragon seen. You may be able to have a local Vet run a Fecal for you and then consult with a Herp vet for treatment via phone as a courtesy.
I have been doing Reptile Rescues for 15+ Years