We have a bearded drangon we got him last Dec. but we are starting to worry about him he is eating very little and also went 4 or 5 days without pooping, there are some rocks attached to the back of his cage and he is always scratching and tring to get further under them, his body temp. does seem to be up as high as it use to be and he is sleeping a lot more than he use to, to the best of our knowledge he about 1 yr. old now. What could teh problem be? Thank You, Cathy XXXXXX@XXXXXX.XXX
Optional Information: Pet's Gender: MalePet's Age: 1Name of Animal: Buddy
Pet's Gender: Male
Pet's Age: 1
Name of Animal: Buddy
We have tried feeding him different foods and he still won't eat.
Hello and Welcome to Justanswer,Can you tell me about the set up?Diet prey/veggies?
Temps and how measured?
UVB light? Tube or coil? How old is the bulb and strength?
Do you have a basking light?
When was last shed?
I am responding here and need to ask a few more questions.
What is the type of UVB bulb you are using? Is it a tube or coil? Strength? How old is the bulb?
It is a 20W coil na dis only about 2 months old.
Hello,The sand can cause some major issues with a Dragon. This will give you an idea about Sand as a substrate: http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/impaction/?page=3 . I suggest using a solid substrate like tile, cage carpet, slate or paper. Sand can also cause skin problems and corneal ulcers in the eyes.
The basking area is way too cool should have 105*-110*F and the cool side of the tank in the 85* range. This is important for digestion and passing of stool as well as for the activity level. If the temperatures are too cool the Dragon will shut down since they cannot thermoregulate their body temperature.
I recommend a reptisun 10.0 florescent tube that runs the length of the tank.
The lights should run 12-14 hours a day. The UVB needs to be changed every 6 months. The coil bulbs are dangerous to the Dragons eyes. Compact UVB problems: http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor-info.htm
The UVB bulb should not have any plastic between it and the Dragon, it needs to run the length of the tank and be no more than 12" from the Dragon. Both lights should run daily for 12-14 hours a day. UVB cannot penetrate glass and the UVB rays which are needed to metabolize calcium.
You should be offering Collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, escarole and curly endives. Butternut squash and various berries are great for a treat. The Veggies should be put in fresh daily, and done about an hour after lights on. Too many carrots can cause some eye issues.
They need 20% veggies daily and 80% live prey under a year of age and once over a year of age we reverse the percentages to an 80% veggie and 20% live prey.The live prey should include crickets, silk worms, roaches, goliath worms and phoenix worms.This is where you can order silk worms and phoenix worms: http://www.coastalsilkworms.com/ and http://www.mulberryfarms.com/
Super worms and wax worms are like giving the Dragon candy. All veggies and prey should be dusted with calcium daily 5 days a week and vitamins 2 days a week.
You should not be feeding any pinkies. They are very high in protein and fat and can cause liver and kidney issues. They can also cause blockages especially if the temps are incorrect.
I would suggest a Herp Vet visit to rule out any medical problems as well as there may be a parasite issue. You also needs to correct the diet and temps, as well as the Substrate because that has great bearing on what may be happening.
I would be happy to locate a Herp Vet for you with a State.
Right now to help your Dragon, we can do a soak on 50/50 warm water and plain Pedialyte to help with hydration. This usually will perk up a Dragon. You do not have to make it any higher than mid way up the legs. I suggest that you get the bulb replaced and this will help make a great improvement as well as you need a calcium supplement on the prey and veggies.
Please hit reply to Expert, if I can assist you further if you are happy with my Answer, Please press the Smiley Face. I am here to help.
Bearded Dragon Care Sheet
1. 0-3 months- baby 2. 3-12 months-juvenile 3. 12-18 months- sub adult 4. 18 months + -adult
1. A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length of your tank. Your dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he will get metabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your beardie outside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80 degrees or above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet store. Never leave a beardie outside unattended. 2. A basking type light that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your beardie must have warmth to digest food & thrive.
Babies: Warm basking log: 105-125 degrees F Cool side: 85-90 Adults: Warm basking spot: 110-115 Cool side: 80-85 Measure temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these are most accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.
*Beardies over the age of one year old during the winter months will go into a Brumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a form of Hibernation that is governed by the weather and time of year. The lights should be on a shorter period at this time. Fresh greens should be available during this period. Do not feed live prey during Brumation.
Water: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a day. You can also offer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your dragon is not too small to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie is 2 months old you can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm water- not hot. It will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can move up to the bathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath enclosure to be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between dragons too if bathing more than one.
If you have any further questions feel free to ask. I like to start people off with proper husbandry and then see if I can further assist.
This is for fruits and Vegetables
Nutrition chart: http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutritionframeset.html
Sand as a substrate: http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/impaction/?page=3
Walnut shell Graphic: http://mrskingsbioweb.com/beardeddragngrossanatomy.htm
sexing bearded Dragons: http://repticzone.com/articles/sexingbeardeddragons.html
Could you help me find a vet to take him to I live in Nampa, Idaho
I see you gave me a negative rating. Please consider pressing a Smiley FACE if this information is helpful.
I will be happy to assist you.
These are the two Herp Vets that I could find for you:
Intermountain Pet Hospital800 W. Overland Rd.Meridian208-888-2910
Prairie Animal Hospital920 West Prairie AvenueCoeur D Alene 83815 208-772-3214
The problem with Reptile specialists, is that they are far and few between and many times we do have to travel a bit to get to the closest one. I do suggest going over the husbandry changes that I suggested and see if it helps. Please hit reply for further help and if satisfied remember to click the Smiley Face for a positive rating.
I have been doing Reptile Rescues for 15+ Years
Hi Cathy Lyle,I'm just following up on our conversation about Buddy. How is everything going?Joan