my bearded dragon is poorly and im quite concerned shes very lethargic not eating and has white stuff at the sides of her mouth im very concerned could u possibly suggest what it might be
Pet's Gender: Female
Pet's Age: 3
Name of Animal: sunshine
keeping her well watered and changing uv bulb and lightbulb trying to convince her to eat to no avail :(
Hello and Welcome to Justanswer,Can you tell me about the set up?
Temps and how measured?
UVB light? Tube or coil? How old is the bulb and strength?
Do you have a basking light?
mario worms and salad she has a 60 wat basking light and a brand new uv bulb i have to admit i do not have a thermostat but i have two dragons in the same tank and the other1 is fine
What type of substrate are you using?
What size enclosure?
Is Sunshine passing stools?
What type of UVB bulb are you using? Is it a tube or coil and strength?
no as she hasnt eaten :(im not exacly sure on measurements but i would say 2ft wide by 3ft tall not sure wat a substrate is sorry but its a tube 10
Two dragons should never be housed together. The only time we bring tmore than one dragon into the tank is to breed. At that time we bring the female to the male and then separate after breeding.
Substrate is what is in the bottom of the tank. Loose substrates like sand and desert blend are very dangerous and can cause a blockage or intestinal perforations. The sand can cause some major issues with a Dragon. This will give you an idea about Sand as a substrate: http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/impaction/?page=3
I suggest using a solid substrate like tile, cage carpet, slate or paper. Sand can also cause skin problems and corneal ulcers in the eyes.
The basking area should have 110*-115*F and the cool side of the tank in the 85* range. This is important for digestion and passing of stool. If the temps are not correct, this can also cause a problem.
You need to have 2 lights, a day time basking bulb as well as a UVB. I recommend a reptisun 10.0 and UVB lights do not put out heat. The UVB bulb is needed to stop Metabolic Bone Disease. The UVB needs to be changed every 6 months.
Coil UVB bulbs can injure the eyes.
Compact UVB problems: http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor-info.htm
The UVB bulb should not have any plastic between it and the Dragon, it needs to run the length of the tank and be no more than 12" from the Dragon. Both lights should run daily for 12-14 hours a day. UVB cannot penetrate glass so sitting by the window, does not supply UVB rays which are needed to metabolize calcium.
You should be feeding Collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, escarole and curly endives. Butternut squash and various berries are great for a treat. The Veggies should be put in fresh daily, and done about an hour after lights on. They need 80% veggies daily and 20% live prey over a year of age.
The live prey should include crickets, silk worms, roaches, goliath worms and phoenix worms.The canned prey looses the nutritional value and is high in chitin which is the outer shells and can cause a blockage.
Super worms and wax worms are like giving the Dragon candy. All veggies and prey should be dusted with calcium daily 5 days a week and vitamins 2 days a week.
For now we need to give him a soak in 50/50 warm water and plain Dioralyte(infant electrolyte replacer) to prevent dehydration. Please soak at least 30 mins. I do suggest a Herp vet visit to help rule out a parasite issue.
I am going to give you links for Herp Vets in the UK: http://www.livefoods.co.uk/Vets.php or http://www.ukbeardeddragons.co.uk/vet%20directory.htm
Bearded Dragon Care Sheet
1. 0-3 months- baby 2. 3-12 months-juvenile 3. 12-18 months- sub adult 4. 18 months + -adult
1. A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length of your tank. Your dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he will get metabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your beardie outside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80 degrees or above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet store. Never leave a beardie outside unattended. 2. A basking type light that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your beardie must have warmth to digest food & thrive.
Babies: Warm basking log: 105-125 degrees F Cool side: 85-90 Adults: Warm basking spot: 110-115 Cool side: 80-85 Measure temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these are most accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.
*Beardies over the age of one year old during the winter months will go into a Brumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a form of Hibernation that is governed by the weather and time of year. The lights should be on a shorter period at this time. Fresh greens should be available during this period. Do not feed live prey during Brumation.
Water: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a day. You can also offer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your dragon is not too small to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie is 2 months old you can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm water- not hot. It will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can move up to the bathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath enclosure to be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between dragons too if bathing more than one.
If you have any further questions feel free to ask. I like to start people off with proper husbandry and then see if I can further assist. http://www.repticzone.com/articles/fruitsandvegetablesrated.html
This is for fruits and Vegetables
Walnut shell Graphic: http://mrskingsbioweb.com/beardeddragngrossanatomy.htm
sexing bearded Dragons: http://repticzone.com/articles/sexingbeardeddragons.html