my bearded dragon is not eating, has lost weight and is not active at allthe other day i when i picked him up he had poo partially out of his reari took paper towel and pulled it the rest of the way out. it was hard and whiteit didn't look like regular poo
Type of Animal: dearded dragon
force feeding (no luck)
Hello and Welcome to Justanswer,
Can you tell me about the set up?
Temps and how measured?
UVB light? Tube or coil? How old is the bulb and strength?
Do you have a basking light?
Kale,apples,carrots, crickets ocational mill worms
crushed walnut bedding
80F in middle of enclosure with analog guage on back wall
calcium dusk mostly just on the crickrts
2x 26w uvb just changed yesterday. Hadn't been changed in a while
75w basking light
You have some husbandry issues which can be causing the Dragon the problems you are seeing. The Walnut shell can serious issues which includes Perforation of the intestines, a Blockage, corneal ulcers and skin problems Graphic: http://mrskingsbioweb.com/beardeddragngrossanatomy.htm
I suggest using a solid substrate like tile, cage carpet, slate or paper. Sand can also cause skin problems and corneal ulcers in the eyes.
The basking area should have 110*-115*F and the cool side of the tank in the 85* range. This is important for digestion and passing of stool. If the temps are not correct, this can also cause a problem.
You need to have a day time basking bulb as well as a UVB. I recommend a reptisun 10.0 and UVB lights do not put out heat. The UVB bulb is needed to stop Metabolic Bone Disease. The UVB needs to be changed every 6 months.
The UVB should be a tube type. http://www.anapsid.org/uvtable.html
Coil UVB bulbs can injure the eyes.
Compact UVB problems: http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor-info.htm
The UVB bulb should not have any plastic between it and the Dragon, it needs to run the length of the tank and be no more than 12" from the Dragon. Both lights should run daily for 12-14 hours a day during spring and summer and fall and winter needs to go to 6-8 hour cycle.
You should be feeding Collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, escarole and curly endives. Butternut squash and various berries are great for a treat. The Veggies should be put in fresh daily, and done about an hour after lights on.
They need 80% veggies daily and 20% live prey for your Dragon over a year old. You can use this food chart to help with diet: http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
The Kale you are feeding binds calcium and with the other foods you are feeding are not a proper diet.
The live prey should include crickets, silk worms, roaches, Goliath worms and phoenix worms.
Super worms and wax worms are like giving the Dragon candy. All veggies and prey should be dusted with calcium daily 5 days a week and vitamins 2 days a week.
The Dragon is showing signs of having an impaction or blockage due to the substrate and improper diet.
For now we need to give him a soak in 50/50 warm water and plain Pedialyte to prevent dehydration. Please soak at least 30 mins. While in the soak, gently massage the abdomen to help pass stool to relieve pressure on the spine. I do suggest a Herp vet visit. I can locate some Herp Vets with a State. Joan
I am also giving you my care sheet to help with the husbandry.
Bearded Dragon Care Sheet
1. 0-3 months- baby 2. 3-12 months-juvenile 3. 12-18 months- sub adult 4. 18 months + -adult
1. A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length of your tank. Your dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he will get metabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your beardie outside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80 degrees or above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet store. Never leave a beardie outside unattended. 2. A basking type light that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your beardie must have warmth to digest food & thrive.
Babies: Warm basking log: 105-125 degrees F Cool side: 85-90 Adults: Warm basking spot: 110-115 Cool side: 80-85 Measure temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these are most accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.
*Beardies over the age of one year old during the winter months will go into a Brumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a form of Hibernation that is governed by the weather and time of year. The lights should be on a shorter period at this time. Fresh greens should be available during this period. Do not feed live prey during Brumation.
Water: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a day. You can also offer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your dragon is not too small to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie is 2 months old you can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm water- not hot. It will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can move up to the bathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath enclosure to be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between dragons too if bathing more than one.
If you have any further questions feel free to ask. I like to start people off with proper husbandry and then see if I can further assist. http://www.repticzone.com/articles/fruitsandvegetablesrated.html This is for fruits and Vegetables
Sand can cause some major issues with a Dragon. This will give you an idea about Sand as a substrate: http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/impaction/?page=3
sexing bearded Dragons: http://repticzone.com/articles/sexingbeardeddragons.html
I have been doing Reptile Rescues for 15+ Years