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Anna
Anna, Reptile Expert, Biologist
Category: Reptile
Satisfied Customers: 9729
Experience:  Have owned turtles, snakes, amphibians, and lizards. Study and provide habitat for wild herps.
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help, my russian tortoise, wont eat at all

Resolved Question:

help, my russian tortoise, won't eat at all
Submitted: 2 years ago via TotallyTortoise.
Category: Reptile
Expert:  Anna replied 2 years ago.
Hello,

Some additional information will help me to answer your question.

How long have you had your tortoise? Has he ever eaten?

How do you keep him - tank, tortoise table, etc.?

What temperatures do you maintain in the basking area and in the coolest part of his home?

What types of lighting and heating equipment do you have?

Thank you.

Anna
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
do you speak spanish?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

We keep the tortoise in a tank we use heating bulbs for day and night.The tortoise is barley 3 months old and hasn't been eating since we bought him/her.

Expert:  Anna replied 2 years ago.
Thank you for getting back to me. I only speak a tiny amount of Spanish - not enough to communicate well, but here's what I'll do. I'll give you your answer in English first, and then use an online translator and also post it in Spanish. I'm working on your answer, and will post it as soon as I'm finished.

Gracias XXXXX XXXXX a mí. Yo sólo hablo una pequeña cantidad de españoles - no lo suficiente para comunicarse bien, pero esto es lo que voy a hacer. Te voy a dar su respuesta en Inglés, y luego utilizar un traductor en línea y también después en español. Estoy trabajando en la respuesta, y lo publicaremos tan pronto como he terminado.

Anna
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Gracias!
Expert:  Anna replied 2 years ago.
Thank you for waiting. I can tell you care about your tortoise, and want him to be healthy. Unfortunately, the way these tortoises are captured and sold often gets them off to a very poor start. To make matters worse, pet store personnel most often give out incorrect information on care. I'm afraid that is what has happened to you. In order to return your tortoise to health, there are some changes you'll have to make.

Most Russian tortoises are wild-caught. They're then transported in crowded, dirty conditions, and transferred from one location to the next until they finally end up in a pet store. Many of them are sick and infested with parasites at that point. For that reason, I recommend that any new tortoise be taken to a reptile vet right away for a check-up. The vet can check for parasites and provide treatment if needed. There may be other health conditions that also require attention. This link will take you to a state-by-state directory of reptile vets:

http://www.anapsid.org/vets/index.html#vetlist


Now for the changes you may need to make. A tank isn’t the best environment for tortoises to live in because the air can’t circulate properly. They should have some kind of an open enclosure that is at least 4 feet long and 2 ft. wide, and 1 to 2 ft. deep. You could build such an enclosure or convert a preformed garden pond or child’s plastic wading pool (one of the larger sizes). Large RubberMaid totes can also be converted. Here is a site where you can see photos of indoor and outdoor homes for tortoises:

http://www.russiantortoisepictures.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=965


If a tortoise is too cold, it won't eat, so check your temperatures and adjust them if need be. The gradient in the enclosure should be 70*F to 85*F, with the basking area warmer yet, at 95*F. Night temperatures can go down to 70* to 75*F, so you probably don’t need to leave the heat on at night. Tortoises need the night time drop to stay healthy. If temperatures are a little too chilly in the daytime, lethargy and appetite loss will occur. This may be what is wrong with your tortoise. A good digital probe thermometer is needed to accurately measure temperatures.

Your tortoise also needs UVB rays. Many of the so-called daytime lights for reptiles are called full- spectrum, but they do not produce any UVB rays at all. If the light doesn’t specifically state UVB (not UV or UVA, but UVB), it doesn’t produce UVB rays. Without UVB tortoises develop Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). It causes a very slow and painful death, often over a period of months to years. I recommend a light called the Reptisun 10.0 for UVB rays. UVB bulbs are ineffective after 6 months, even though they may look fine, and must be replaced twice a year. Calcium is also needed to prevent MBD. The best way to provide it is to give your tortoise a cuttlebone, which can be found in the bird section of pet stores.

Tortoises need a high fiber diet. Hay and grasses should be a big part of the diet.You can buy bags of timothy hay in pet stores in the rabbit section. Greens such as dandelion, collards, and turnip greens are also good, but they should be in addition to the hay, not the main part of the diet. Fruits and some vegetables are not good for tortoises, and lead to many health problems. You can read much more about diet at the following site:

http://russiantortoise.org/russiantortoisediet.htm

The same site has a good care sheet:

http://russiantortoise.org/care_sheet.htm

I’ll also give you a link to the site map. This site is a reliable source of information on Russian tortoises, so I hope you’ll go there and explore.

http://russiantortoise.org/site_map.htm

I’m also going to give you a first aid measure to take. Your tortoise is probably somewhat dehydrated. Prepare a shallow bath for him consisting of 1/2 Pedialyte (made for human infants and available in discount stores and pharmacies) and 1/2 water. Soak him for 20 to 30 minutes. Reptiles can absorb fluids and electrolytes through their vents, so this will help with dehydration. Repeat this twice a day until the tortoise exhibits a good appetite and normal activity.

In summary, I would begin giving soaks, make an appointment for a check-up, adjust the temperature, read up on diet and get appropriate foods, get a UVB light if the one you have doesn’t say it provides UVB light, and set up the most appropriate housing. I hope this doesn’t sound too overwhelming, and I wish the pet store had given you better information to begin with. After a couple of soaks and a few hours in warmer temperatures, your tortoise may perk up and begin eating. If he doesn’t, a visit to the vet is very important because something is probably wrong.

If you have more questions, let me know by clicking on REPLY. I hope your tortoise will be fine.

Now in Spanish:

Gracias XXXXX XXXXX espera. Les puedo decir se preocupan por su tortuga, y quiero que sea saludable. Desafortunadamente, la manera en que estas tortugas son capturados y vendidos a menudo las personas los sufran un comienzo muy pobre. Para empeorar las cosas, el personal de tienda de mascotas a menudo dar información incorrecta sobre la atención. Me temo que eso es lo que ha sucedido a usted. Con el fin de devolver la tortuga a la salud, hay algunos cambios que tendrá que hacer.

La mayoría de tortugas rusas son capturados en la naturaleza. Son transportadas en condiciones de hacinamiento, suciedad, y se transfiere de un lugar a otro hasta que finalmente terminan en una tienda de mascotas. Muchos de ellos están enfermos e infectados con parásitos en ese momento. Por esta razón, recomiendo que cualquier tortuga nuevo ser llevado a un veterinario de reptiles de inmediato para un chequeo. El veterinario puede comprobar si hay parásitos y proporcionar el tratamiento si es necesario. Puede haber otras condiciones de salud que también requieren atención. Este enlace te llevará a un directorio, estado por estado de los veterinarios de reptiles:

http://www.anapsid.org/vets/index.html # XXXXX


Ahora, por los cambios que sea necesario hacer. Un tanque no es el mejor ambiente para las tortugas que viven en el aire porque no puede circular adecuadamente. Deben tener algún tipo de estructura abierta que es por lo menos 4 pies de largo y 2 pies, y 1 a 2 pies de profundidad. Se puede construir como un recinto o convertir un estanque o preformados piscina inflable de su hijo de plástico (uno de los tamaños más grandes). Grandes bolsas Rubbermaid también se puede convertir. Aquí es un sitio donde se pueden ver fotos de casas interiores y exteriores para las tortugas:

http://www.russiantortoisepictures.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=965

Si una tortuga es muy frio, no va a comer, así que revise su temepratures y ajustarlas si es necesario. El gradiente en el recinto debe ser de 70 a 85 * F * F, con el más cálido el área de calentamiento, sin embargo, el 95 * F. Las temperaturas nocturnas pueden bajar hasta 70 * a 75 * F, así que probablemente no es necesario abandonar el calor de la noche. Las tortugas necesitan la caída de la noche para mantenerse saludable. Si las temperaturas son un poco demasiado frío en el letargo durante el día, y pérdida de apetito va a producir. Esto puede ser lo que está mal con su tortuga. Un buen termómetro de sonda digital es necesaria para medir con precisión la temperatura.

Tu tortuga también necesita los rayos UVB. Muchas de las luces durante el día los llamados de reptiles son llamados de amplio espectro, pero no producen los rayos UVB en absoluto. Si la luz no se refiere específicamente a los rayos UVB estado (no UV o los rayos UVA, UVB, pero), no produce los rayos UVB. Sin tortugas UVB desarrollar la enfermedad ósea metabólica (MBD). Que causa una muerte lenta y dolorosa, a menudo durante un período de meses o años. Recomiendo una luz llamada 10,0 Reptisun para los rayos UVB. Bombillas de luz ultravioleta no son efectivos después de 6 meses, a pesar de que puede lucir bien, y debe ser reemplazado dos veces al año. El calcio también es necesaria para prevenir MBD. El mejor modo de dar es darle a su tortuga hueso de jibia, que pueden encontrarse en la sección aves de tiendas de animales.

Las tortugas necesitan una dieta alta en fibra. Heno y hierbas deben ser una parte importante de la diet.You pueden comprar bolsas de heno del timothy en tiendas de mascotas en la sección de conejo. Verdes como el diente de león, col rizada, los nabos también son buenos, pero deben ser, además de la paja, no la parte principal de la dieta. Frutas y algunas verduras no son buenas para las tortugas, y conducir a muchos problemas de salud. Se puede leer mucho más sobre la dieta en la siguiente dirección:

http://russiantortoise.org/russiantortoisediet.htm

El mismo sitio cuenta con una hoja de una buena atención:

http://russiantortoise.org/care_sheet.htm

También te dan un enlace al mapa del sitio. Este sitio es una fuente confiable de información sobre tortugas rusa, así que espero que iré allí y explorar.

http://russiantortoise.org/site_map.htm

También voy a dar una medida de primeros auxilios a seguir. Tu tortuga es probablemente un poco deshidratado. Prepare un baño poco profundo de lo que consiste de 1 / 2 Pedialyte (hecha para los bebés humanos y su disponibilidad en las tiendas de descuento y farmacias) y agua 1 / 2. Remoje él por 20 a 30 minutos. Los reptiles pueden absorber líquidos y electrolitos a través de sus conductos de ventilación, así que esto ayudará con la deshidratación. Repita esto dos veces al día hasta que la tortuga presenta un buen apetito y la actividad normal.

En resumen, me gustaría comenzar a dar los baños, hacer una cita para una revisión, ajuste la temperatura, leer sobre la dieta y obtener los alimentos adecuados, obtener la luz UVB, si el que tienes no decir que proporciona la luz UVB, y configurar la vivienda más adecuada. Espero que esto no suena demasiado abrumador, y deseo que la tienda de mascotas te había dado una mejor información para empezar. Después de un par de empapa y un par de horas en las temperaturas más cálidas, la tortuga puede animarse y empezar a comer. Si no lo hace, una visita al veterinario es muy importante porque algo está probablemente equivocado.

Si tiene más preguntas, que me haga saber al hacer clic sobre la respuesta. Espero que tu tortuga va a estar bien.

Anna

(Si usted encuentra mi respuesta es útil, por favor haga clic en el botón ACEPTAR verde. Gracias.)
Anna, Reptile Expert, Biologist
Category: Reptile
Satisfied Customers: 9729
Experience: Have owned turtles, snakes, amphibians, and lizards. Study and provide habitat for wild herps.
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Anna
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Have owned turtles, snakes, amphibians, and lizards. Study and provide habitat for wild herps.