Can you tell me about the set up?
UVB light? How old? Tube or coil?
When was last shed?
She(aka Spike) is in an 150 gallon aquarium. She has 3 cone shaped lights/heat element. The first one far to the left is a 20 watt only for reptiles Zilla light that I leave on during the day. The second is a red light bulb I turn on at night. The third and farthest to the right is an Eko Terra UL 27 eg heat type element which I leave on 24/7.
I feed Spike grub worms one day then mixed veggies the next. Spike is not eating regularly at this time.
When I first saw the eye accumulating this hard mass I took it as shedding. She is at the end of her last shed now.
I dont know what Substrate is, so, no.
Do you use a UVB light? It is a tube or coil type florescent type bulb to supply artificial sunlight? It would be listed as a 5.0, 8.0 or 10.0.
The substrate is the type of bedding you use.
Can you post a picture of the eye? Use the paper clip icon in the tool bar or post to photobucket and supply the link.
I also need basking temps?
can I email you the pictures?
I have them on my phone but cannot get them on my computer.
I have a sand-like substrate.
It is a coil type florescent it says 07/08
The picture did not come through. What you can do is text the picture to your email and then the picture will be on your computer and you will be able to post it. Joan
The husbandry issues can be causing the Dragon not to go Potty normally and not want to eat. Calci Sand can cause intestinal impactions, skin problems and corneal ulcers. http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/impaction/?page=3 sand. I would switch the substrate to tile, paper, slate or cage carpet. The UVB bulb should not be older than 6 months, it needs to run the length of the tank and be no more than 12" from the Dragon. The coil type can cause eye problems, which is called Photo Kerato Conjunctivitis. compact UVB problems: http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor-info.htm You also need to keep the basking temps at 110*F-115* for the Dragon to have a good appetite and for proper digestion. Both lights should run daily for 12-14 hours a day. The diet has some issues too. This is important because the protein in prey can cause Kidney and liver issues. At one year old we change the Dragons to an 80% veggie diet and 20% live prey You should never feed lettuce as staple. You should be feeding Collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, escarole and curly endives. Butternut squash and various berries are great for a treat. The Veggies should be put in fresh daily, and done about an hour after lights on. They need 80% veggies daily and 20% live prey. The grubs are not a good prey item. The live prey should include crickets, silk worms, roaches, goliath worms and phoenix worms. They should fed all that can be eaten in 15 mins daily. All veggies and prey should be dusted with calcium daily 5 days a week and vitamins 2 days a week. Now for the eye, this is a growth that will need to be treated by a Herp Vet. I can locate one for you with a city and state. Joan
Bearded Dragon Care Sheet
1. 0-3 months- baby 2. 3-12 months-juvenile 3. 12-18 months- sub adult 4. 18 months + -adult
1. A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length of your tank. Your dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he will get metabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your beardie outside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80 degrees or above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet store. Never leave a beardie outside unattended. 2. A basking type light that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your beardie must have warmth to digest food & thrive.
Babies: Warm basking log: 105-125 degrees F Cool side: 85-90 Adults: Warm basking spot: 110-115 Cool side: 80-85 Measure temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these are most accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.
*Beardies over the age of one year old during the winter months will go into a Brumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a form of Hibernation that is governed by the weather and time of year. The lights should be on a shorter period at this time. Fresh greens should be available during this period. Do not feed live prey during Brumation.
Water: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a day. You can also offer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your dragon is not too small to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie is 2 months old you can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm water- not hot. It will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can move up to the bathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath enclosure to be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between dragons too if bathing more than one.
If you have any further questions feel free to ask. I like to start people off with proper husbandry and then see if I can further assist. http://www.repticzone.com/articles/fruitsandvegetablesrated.html This is for fruits and Vegetables
Walnut shell Graphic: http://mrskingsbioweb.com/beardeddragngrossanatomy.htm
http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/impaction/?page=3 calci sand
sexing bearded Dragons: http://repticzone.com/articles/sexingbeardeddragons.html
compact UVB problems: http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor-info.htm