The trick to getting a Dragon to eat Veggies is to use something that is colorful as well as tasty. I sue berries like Raspberries mixed into the Veggies. I also rip up hibiscus flowers and mix them in. My Dragons are partial to the red color. The last thing I use is a fruit flavored baby food and use it as a salad dressing. These methods usually work and eventually the Dragon will eat them without prompting. Joan
Can you tell me about the set up?
Heat source and temp?
UVB light? How old? Type coil or tube?
She is in a 40 gal breeder tank with repti sand substrate. We have two light fixtures one with uvb/uba bulbs and the other with a 100 watt coil heat bulb. The temp avereges 95 on the hot side and arouond 85 on the cool side. We think our beardie is a female and we have had her for 1 1/2 years. She was approximately 6-8 inches when we got her.
A Dragon over the age of one year usually goes one a week to once every two weeks as far as passing stool. The first issue that you have is the Loose Substrate. Loose substrates are sold as a safe substrates, but are actually deadly to reptiles. I will give you a links for the two most deadly substrates, to give you an idea of what can happen:
Walnut shell Graphic: http://mrskingsbioweb.com/beardeddragngrossanatomy.htm
http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/impaction/?page=3 calci sand
I suspect your Dragon may be getting blocked from the substrate which would account for the lack of stool. We can try some first aid to get the stool going. Please put your Dragon in a solution of 50/50 warm water and Dioralyte. While in the soak please gently massage the abdomen. This should stimulate the passing of stool. The next issue is your Temps are too low as they should be at 110*F-115*F. If the temps are too low a Dragon will go off food. Your UVB should be changed every 6 moths and if it has not been changed it should be done asap. I suggest a Reptisun 10.0 tube type bulb. I am going to give you my care sheet to see if there are any husbandry issues that need to be addressed. Joan
Bearded Dragon Care Sheet
1. 0-3 months- baby 2. 3-12 months-juvenile 3. 12-18 months- sub adult 4. 18 months + -adult
1. A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length of your tank. Your dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he will get metabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your beardie outside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80 degrees or above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet store. Never leave a beardie outside unattended. 2. A basking type light that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your beardie must have warmth to digest food & thrive.
Babies: Warm basking log: 105-125 degrees F Cool side: 85-90 Adults: Warm basking spot: 110-115 Cool side: 80-85 Measure temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these are most accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.
*Beardies over the age of one year old during the winter months will go into a Brumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a form of Hibernation that is governed by the weather and time of year. The lights should be on a shorter period at this time. Fresh greens should be available during this period. Do not feed live prey during Brumation.
Water: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a day. You can also offer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your dragon is not too small to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie is 2 months old you can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm water- not hot. It will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can move up to the bathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath enclosure to be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between dragons too if bathing more than one.
If you have any further questions feel free to ask. I like to start people off with proper husbandry and then see if I can further assist. http://www.repticzone.com/articles/fruitsandvegetablesrated.html This is for fruits and Vegetables
sexing bearded Dragons: http://repticzone.com/articles/sexingbeardeddragons.html
compact UVB problems: http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor-info.htm
I like to do the Veggies about an hour after lights on. I do 80% veggies and 20% Live prey. In the later afternoon I feed prey. If this continues, I would see the Herp Vet next week, as Reptiles Hid illness well, so if you notice signs early, it is wise to get them checked out. If you do not have a Herp Vet I can locate one for you with a City and State. Joan
We live in Shiner, TX and live prey is hard to come by. What are your thoughts on canned crickets? A vet recomendation would also be great.
We call canned prey can-o-garbage. with no nutritional value.
I will give you some links to order prey.
http://www.crix-n-wiggles.com/ super worms and crickets
http://www.coastalsilkworms.com/ silk worms, phoenix worms, goliath worms, etc
http://www.mulberryfarms.com/ assorted feeders
This is a link to Herp Vets in TX: http://www.anapsid.org/vets/texas.html